Skip to content
Licensed Unlicensed Requires Authentication Published by De Gruyter September 25, 2021

Evaluation of the Quality of Bath Cosmetics in Powder Form Depending on the Selection of Fillers

Bewertung der Qualität von pulverförmigen Badekosmetika in Abhängigkeit von der Auswahl der Füllstoffe
  • Ilona Podkowa-Zawadzka

    Ilona Podkowa-Zawadzka received her M.Sc in Chemical Engineering from the University of Technology and Humanties in Radom, Poland (2017). Currently, she is a PhD student at the Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science in the field of Commodity Science. The area of scientific interest include development of innovative formulations of cosmetics, quality assessment, aspect related to the safety of use of cosmetics and functional testing.

    EMAIL logo
    , Tomasz Wasilewski

    Tomasz Wasilewski received his M. Sc. in Chemical Engineering from the Technical University of Radom, Poland (2000), his Ph. D. in Materials Science and Engineering from the Technical University of Warsaw, Poland (2004) and his DSc. in Commodity Science from the Cracow University of Economics, Poland (2014). He was supported by the Foundation for Polish Science (2006 – 2007), and is currently a researcher at the Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science, University of Technology and Humanities in Radom. Main research topics of Assoc. Prof. Tomasz Wasilewski are cosmetics and household products, their manufacturing, properties, quality assessment and physicochemistry of aqueous solutions of surfactants.

    and Małgorzata Zięba

    Małgorzata Zięba received her M. Sc. in Chemical Engineering from the Technical University of Radom, Poland (2003), her Ph.D. in Commodity Science from Cracow University of Economics, Poland (2010) and her DSc. in Management and Quality Sciences from Gdynia Maritime University, Poland (2020). At the moment she is an employee of Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science, University of Technology and Humanities in Radom as Assoc. Prof. Main research interest area of Malgorzata Zieba are: development of new cosmetic formulations, physical-chemical properties assessment and quality evaluation of cosmetics, especially body cleansing cosmetics and shampoos.

Abstract

The aim of the study was to evaluate the effects of hydrophilic microcrystalline cellulose, hydrophobic talc and mixtures of cellulose and talc when used as fillers in powdered bath cosmetics. A number of model formulations were developed that contained fillers in different compositions. Prototypical formulations were prepared and evaluated for their functional properties and skin-drying effect. An increase in the concentration of talc was found to reduce the ability of the formulations to emulsify fatty soils and, consequently, decrease the skin-drying effect after washing. Another result of the study is that a high content of talc does not significantly impair the foaming ability, and the presence of talc improves the stability of generated foam.

Zusammenfassung

Ziel der Studie war, die Auswirkungen von hydrophiler mikrokristalliner Cellulose, hydrophobem Talkum und Mischungen aus Cellulose und Talkum beim Einsatz in pulverförmigen Badekosmetika als Füllstoffe zu bewerten. Es wurde eine Reihe von Modellformulierungen entwickelt, welche die Füllstoffe in unterschiedlicher Zusammensetzung enthielten. Prototypformulierungen wurden hergestellt und deren funktionelle Eigenschaften und hautaustrocknende Wirkung untersucht. Es zeigte sich, dass bei Erhöhung der Talkumkonzentration die Fähigkeit der Formulierungen, fetthaltige Verschmutzungen zu emulgieren, reduziert war und somit die hautaustrocknende Wirkung nach dem Waschen abnahm. Außerdem zeigt die Studie, dass ein hoher Talkumgehalt die Schaumbildung nicht signifikant beeinträchtigt und dass die Stabilität des erzeugten Schaums durch die Anwesenheit des Talkums verbessert wird.


Department of Industrial Chemistry Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science University of Technology and Humanties in Radom Poland

About the authors

Ilona Podkowa-Zawadzka

Ilona Podkowa-Zawadzka received her M.Sc in Chemical Engineering from the University of Technology and Humanties in Radom, Poland (2017). Currently, she is a PhD student at the Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science in the field of Commodity Science. The area of scientific interest include development of innovative formulations of cosmetics, quality assessment, aspect related to the safety of use of cosmetics and functional testing.

Tomasz Wasilewski

Tomasz Wasilewski received his M. Sc. in Chemical Engineering from the Technical University of Radom, Poland (2000), his Ph. D. in Materials Science and Engineering from the Technical University of Warsaw, Poland (2004) and his DSc. in Commodity Science from the Cracow University of Economics, Poland (2014). He was supported by the Foundation for Polish Science (2006 – 2007), and is currently a researcher at the Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science, University of Technology and Humanities in Radom. Main research topics of Assoc. Prof. Tomasz Wasilewski are cosmetics and household products, their manufacturing, properties, quality assessment and physicochemistry of aqueous solutions of surfactants.

Małgorzata Zięba

Małgorzata Zięba received her M. Sc. in Chemical Engineering from the Technical University of Radom, Poland (2003), her Ph.D. in Commodity Science from Cracow University of Economics, Poland (2010) and her DSc. in Management and Quality Sciences from Gdynia Maritime University, Poland (2020). At the moment she is an employee of Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Commodity Science, University of Technology and Humanities in Radom as Assoc. Prof. Main research interest area of Malgorzata Zieba are: development of new cosmetic formulations, physical-chemical properties assessment and quality evaluation of cosmetics, especially body cleansing cosmetics and shampoos.

Acknowledgements

The study was conducted under Project no. 3086/182/P \Development of formulations and technologies for the manufacture of innovative cosmetics, pharmacy supplies, household and industrial chemicals" funded with the assistance of the Ministry of Education and Science from subsidies for statutory activity.

References

1 Bom, S., Jorge, J., Ribeiro, H. M. and Marto, J.: A Step Forward on Sustainability in the Cosmetics Industry: a review. Journal of Cleaner Production. Volume 225, 2019, 270–290. DOI:10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.25510.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.255Search in Google Scholar

2 Seweryn A. and Bujak T.: Application of anionic phosphorus derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides for the production of sustainable and mild body wash cosmetics, ACS Sustainable Chem.Eng. 2018, 6, 12, 17294–17301. DOI:10.1021/acssuschemeng.8b0471110.1021/acssuschemeng.8b04711Search in Google Scholar

3 Seweryn, A.: Interactions between surfactants and the skin–theory and practice, Adv. Colloid Interface Sci. 256 (2018) 242–55. PMid:29685575; DOI:10.1016/j.cis.2018.04.00210.1016/j.cis.2018.04.002Search in Google Scholar PubMed

4 Ananthapadmanabhan K. P., Moore D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M. and Meyer, F.: Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. “Dermatologic Therapy", 17 (2004) 16–25. PMid:14728695; DOI:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04SSearch in Google Scholar

5 Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Mukherjee, S. and Chandar, P.: Stratum corneum fatty acids: their critical role in preserving barier integrity during cleansing. Int J Cosmet Sci. 35(4) (2013) 337-345. PMid:23363400; DOI:10.1111/ics.1204210.1111/ics.12042Search in Google Scholar PubMed

6 Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z. and Bujak, T.: Saponins as natural raw materials for increasing the safety of body wash cosmetic use, Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 21(6) (2018) 767–776. DOI:10.1002/jsde.1216810.1002/jsde.12168Search in Google Scholar

7 Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z., Osika, P., Wasilewski, T. and Bujak, T.: Hydrophilic dogwood extracts as materials for reducing the skin irritation potential of body wash cosmetics, Molecules, 22(2) (2017) 320–335. PMid:28218732; DOI:10.3390/molecules2202032010.3390/molecules22020320Search in Google Scholar PubMed PubMed Central

8 Halla, N., Fernandes, I., Heleno, S., Costa, P., Boucherit-Otmani, Z., Boucherit, K. and Barreiro, M.: Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies. Molecules, 23(7) (2018) 1571. PMid:29958439; DOI:10.3390/molecules2307157110.3390/molecules23071571Search in Google Scholar PubMed PubMed Central

9 Ocieczek, A. and Zięba, M.: Comparison of the Sorption Properties of Fruit Powder Shampoos Using the BET, GAB, and Peleg Models, ACS Omega, 24(5) (2020) 14354–14359. PMid:32596572; DOI:10.1021/acsomega.0γ0085110.1021/acsomega.0γ00851Search in Google Scholar

10 Lukic, M., Pantelic, I. and Savic, S.: An Overview of Novel Surfactants for Formulation of Cosmetics with Certain Emphasis on Acidic Active Substances, Tenside Surf. Det. 53(1) (2016) 7–19. DOI:10.3139/113.11040510.3139/113.110405Search in Google Scholar

11 Ananthapadmanabhan K. P.: Amino-Acid Surfactants in Personal Cleansing (Review), Tenside Surf. Det. 56(5) (2019) 378–386. DOI:10.3139/113.11064110.3139/113.110641Search in Google Scholar

12 Bockmühl, D.: Biosurfactants as antimicrobial ingredients for cleaning products and cosmetics. Tenside Surfactants Deterg 49(3) (2012) 196–198. DOI:10,3139/113,11018210,3139/113,110182Search in Google Scholar

13 Varvaresou, A. and Iakovou, K.: Biosurfactants in cosmetic and biopharmaceutical. Lett. Appl. Microbiol. in press (2015), 214–223. PMid:25970073; DOI:10.1111/lam.1244010.1111/lam.12440Search in Google Scholar PubMed

14 Secchi, G.: (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. PMid:18691510; DOI:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2008.04.00410.1016/j.clindermatol.2008.04.004Search in Google Scholar PubMed

15 Klimaszewska, E., Bocho-Janiszewska, A., Ogorzałek, M., Bujak, T., Szmuc, E. and Podkowa, I.: Application of sweet almond protein hydrolysates in glucosides-based shampoos, Pol J Cosmetol 20(2) (2017) 146–152.Search in Google Scholar

16 Bujak, T., Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z. and Wasilewski, T.: Effect of molecular weight of polymers on the properties of delicate facial foams, Tenside Surfactants Detergents, 55(2) (2018) 96–102. DOI:10.3139/113.11054710.3139/113.110547Search in Google Scholar

17 Wasilewski, T., Czerwonka, D., Piotrowska, U., Seweryn, A., Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z. and Sobczak, M.: Use of hop cone extract obtained under supercritical CO2 conditions for producing antibacterial all-purpose cleaners. Green Chemistry Letters and Reviews, 11(4), (2018) 419–428. DOI:10.1080/17518253.2018.152697510.1080/17518253.2018.1526975Search in Google Scholar

18 Wasilewski, T., Seweryn, A. and Bujak, T.: (2016). Supercritical carbon dioxide blackcurrant seed extract as an anti-irritant additive for hand dishwashing liquids. Green Chemistry Letters and Reviews, 9(2) (2016) 114–121. DOI:10.1080/17518253.2016.118043210.1080/17518253.2016.1180432Search in Google Scholar

19 Wasilewski, T., Seweryn, A. and Krajewski, M.: Improvement in the safety of use of hand dishwashing liquids through the addition of hydrophobic plant extracts. J. Surfactants Deterg.19(6) (2016) 1316–1326. PMid:27795665; DOI:10.1007/s11743-016-1868-x10.1007/s11743-016-1868-xSearch in Google Scholar PubMed PubMed Central

20 Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Yang, L., Vincent, C., Tsaur, L., Vetro, K., Foy, V., Zhang, S., Ashkenazi, A., Pashkovski, E. and Subramanian, V.: A novel technology in mild and moisturizing cleansing liquids, Quadrant 22(6) (2009) 307–316.Search in Google Scholar

21 Ren, J., Wang, W., Lu, S., Shen, J. and Tang, F.: Characteristics of dispersion behavior of fine particles in different liquid media. Powder Technology, 137(1–2) (2003) 91–94. DOI:10.1016/j.powtec.2003.08.05710.1016/j.powtec.2003.08.057Search in Google Scholar

22 Mukherjee, S., Yang, L., Vincent, C., Lei, X., Ottaviani, M. F. and Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P.: A comparison between interactions of triglyceride oil and mineral oil with proteins and their ability to reduce cleanser surfactant-induced irritation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37(4) (2015) 371–378. PMid:25656133; DOI:10.1111/ics.1220510.1111/ics.12205Search in Google Scholar PubMed

23 Sikora, E., Michorczyk, P., Olszańska, M. and Ogonowski, J.: Supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds as a valuable component of mild cleansing compositions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37(6) (2015) 574–578. PMid:25899676; DOI:10.1111/ics.1223410.1111/ics.12234Search in Google Scholar PubMed

24 Wasilewski, T., Arct, J., Pytkowska, K., Bocho-Janiszewska, A., Krajewski, M. and Bujak, T.: Technologiczne i fizykochemiczne aspekty wytwarzania koncentratów kosmetyków myjących, Przemysł chemiczny 5 (2015) 741–747. DOI:10.15199/62.2015.5.1610.15199/62.2015.5.16Search in Google Scholar

25 Zazenski, R., Ashton, W. H., Briggs, D., Chudkowski, M., Kelse, J. W., Maceachern, L. and Gettings, S. D.: Talc: Occurrence, Characterization, and Consumer Applications. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, 21(2 (1995) 218–229. PMid:7644709; DOI:10.1006/rtph.1995.10310.1006/rtph.1995.103Search in Google Scholar

26 Schmit, C., Dalton, J., Rosenberg, C. and Myers, G.: Personal cleansing bar with increased talc levels, US Patent US 2007/0042920 A1, Feb. 22, 2007.Search in Google Scholar

27 Gawade, R. P., Chinke, S. P., Prashant, S. and Alegaonkar, P. S.: Polymers in cosmetics, Polymer Science and Innovative Applications,1st Edition, 2020, pp 545–560. DOI:10.1016/B978-0-12-816808-0.00017-210.1016/B978-0-12-816808-0.00017-2Search in Google Scholar

28 Thoorens, G., Krier, F., Leclercq, B., Carlin, B. and Evrard, B.: Microcrystalline cellulose, a direct compression binder in a quality by design environment–A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 473(1–2) (2014) 64–72. PMid:24993785; DOI:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2014.06.05510.1016/j.ijpharm.2014.06.055Search in Google Scholar PubMed

29 Wasilewski, T.: Coacervates as a modern delivery system of hand dishwashing liquids. J Surfact Deterg 13(4) (2010), 513–520. DOI:10.1007/s11743-010-1189-410.1007/s11743-010-1189-4Search in Google Scholar

30 Darlenski, R., Sassning, S., Tsankov, N. and Fluhr, J. W.: Non-invasive in vivo methods for investigation of the skin barrier physical properties. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, 72(2) (2009) 295–303. PMid:19118626; DOI:10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.11.01310.1016/j.ejpb.2008.11.013Search in Google Scholar PubMed

31 Carretero, M. I. and Pozo, M.: Clay and non-clay minerals in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries Part II. Active ingredients. Appl. Clay Sci., 2010, 47, 171–181.. DOI:10.1016/j.Glina.2009.10.01610.1016/j.Glina.2009.10.016Search in Google Scholar

32 Horozov, T.: (2008). Foams and foam films stabilised by solid particles. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 13(3), 2008 134–140. DOI:10.1016/j.cocis.2007.11.00910.1016/j.cocis.2007.11.009Search in Google Scholar

33 Kruglyakov, P. M., Elaneva, S. I. and Vilkova, N. G.: About mechanism of foam stabilization by solid particles, Advances in Colloid and Interface Sci. 165 (2011)108–118. PMid:21382608; DOI:10.1016/j.cis.2011.02.00310.1016/j.cis.2011.02.003Search in Google Scholar PubMed

34 Mukherjee, S., Edmunds, M., Lei, X., Ottaviani, M. F., Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P. and Turro, N. J.: Stearic acid delivery to corneum from a mild and moisturizing cleanser. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2010, 9(3), 202–210. PMid:20883293; DOI:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00510.x10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00510.xSearch in Google Scholar PubMed

Received: 2021-03-10
Accepted: 2021-04-28
Published Online: 2021-09-25
Published in Print: 2021-09-30

© 2021 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston, Germany

Downloaded on 19.4.2024 from https://www.degruyter.com/document/doi/10.1515/tsd-2020-2361/html
Scroll to top button