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15. Ibid., p. 404.

16. This terminology has been adopted from Kerridge. See Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, pp. 176–96.

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19. The National Archives, Kew (TNA) E 154/2/22.

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57. Bickley, ed., Little Red Book, pp. 10–16.

58. Carus-Wilson, ‘Evidences of industrial growth’, 189–205; Carus-Wilson, Woollen Industry before 1550, pp. 133–7; Pilgrim, J. E., ‘The Cloth Industry in East Anglia’, in Geraint Jenkins, J., ed., The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain (London, 1972), p. 255 Google Scholar; Langdon, J., Mills in the Medieval Economy, England 1300–1540 (Oxford, 2004), p. 233 CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

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63. Muldrew, ‘Th’ ancient distaff’’, 502–4.

64. Historical Manuscripts Commission (HMC), Manuscripts of Lord Kenyon,14^th Report, Appendix Part 4 (1894), pp. 572–3.

65. C. Jackson, ed., Newbury Kendrick Workhouse Records 1627–1641, Berkshire Record Society, 8 (2004), pp. xxxiii–xxxiv, lx.

66. Kerridge assumes that all sixteenth-century West Country broadcloth was wheel spun. See Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, p. 14.

67. Chorley, ‘Evolution of the Woollen’, pp. 22–3.

68. Munro, ‘Medieval woollens: Textiles’, pp. 202–3.

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70. Hudson and Tingay, eds, Records of the City of Norwich, pp. 105–6.

71. Issue discussed in John Munro's presentation at the International Medieval Congress, Leeds, 2013.

72. TNA PCC, Prob. 2/10, 57, 97

73. TNA PCC, Prob. 2/525.

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77. TNA PCC, Prob. 2/212.

78. Amor, From Wool to Cloth, pp. 142, 197.

79. TNA PCC, Prob. 2/333.

80. Ramsay, Wiltshire Woollen Industry, pp. 31–2; Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, p. 196; Jackson, ‘Boom-time freaks’, 149.

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83. Statutes, 2&3 Ph. & Mary, c. 11.

84. Mercers Hall, Thomas Gresham Day Book.

85. Ramsay, Wiltshire Woollen Industry, pp. 50–2; Brett, C., ‘Thomas Kytson and Wiltshire clothmen, 1529–1539’, Wiltshire Archaeology and Natural History Magazine, 97 (2004), 60–2Google Scholar.

86. Statutes, 27 Henry VIII, c. 12.

87. TNA PCC, Prob. 2/10, 57, 87, 94, 174, 220, 233, 525; Oldland, ‘Allocation’, 1062.

88. Ramsay, Wiltshire Woollen Industry, p. 25.

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92. Heaton refers to Yorkshire's poor weavers as clothiers, but their role seems to have been limited to weaving, rather than management of cloth production.

93. Statutes, 8 Elizabeth, c. 7.

94. Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, p. 177.

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100. Carus-Wilson, Woollen Industry before 1550, pp. 133–4.

101. Ibid., p. 116; Langdon, Mills, pp. 40–56, 220; Tann, Wool and Water, pp. 23–6.

102. Langdon, Mills, p. 224; Tann, Wool and Water, p. 21.

103. Fines levied in London from 1550 to 1585 for faults under the cloth acts may be an indication of relative county production. There were 702 infractions from Wiltshire, 626 in Suffolk, 429 in Gloucestershire and 116 in Somerset.

104. The catalyst for growth was both the increase in London tailoring and drapery, and the growth in the Spanish trade, as Spanish merchants were taxed as denizens between 1466 and 1489.

105. Amor, From Wool to Cloth, p. 179.

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107. Drapers Hall, London, Thomas Howell ledger, fols 39v–64v.

108. In the 1552 act short Suffolks were 23–5 yards long and weighed 1.48 lb/per sq. yd, compared with Wiltshire whites at 26–8 yards and weighed 1.32 lb/sq. yd, but they both weighed 64 lb; see Statutes, 5&6 Edward VI, c. 6.

109. Drapers Hall, Thomas Howell ledger; Brett, ‘Thomas Kytson and Wiltshire clothmen’, 42.

110. Statutes, 8 Eliz. c. 6.

111. BL, Cotton Ms. Titus B V, fol. 314; Unwin, ‘Woollen Cloth’, p. 279.

112. Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, p. 17. The 1483 cloth act specifically excluded all cloths valued at forty shillings or less, including vesses, and were therefore not subject to the same finishing standards set for quality broadcloth and kersey. In 1522, Suffolk vesses were specifically exempted from the 1514 law that finished broadcloth was not to shrink more than a yard. In 1535, vesses were exempted from the law that required weavers to weave their mark into the cloth.

113. Pilgrim, ‘East Anglia’, p. 255; Statutes, 4&5 Ph. & Mary, c. 5.

114. Brett, ‘Thomas Kytson and Wiltshire clothmen’, 42; TNA, Prob. 2/525. In 1548, Thomas Gresham was buying long, white Worcesters for between £6 and £10 in 1548; see Mercers Hall, London, Thomas Gresham Day Book.

115. Ibid., p. 163. There were twenty-one colour shades approved in the 1552 act; see Statutes, 5&6 Ed. VI, c. 6.

116. Zell, Industry in the Countryside, p. 158. John Broke, the London mercer's 1532 inventory included fine, dyed Kent cloths at Antwerp; see Devon Record Office, 312M, FY/64.

117. Zell, Industry in the Countryside, pp. 165, 209.

118. Statutes, 3&4 Ed. VI, c. 2; TNA E 159/329, 330, 331, 335, 337, 338, 339, 350, 355, 357, 359, 360, 361, 363, 366, 368, 370, 371, 375, 376, 378, 380, 381, 384, 387, 389, 390.

119. Zell, Industry in the Countryside, pp. 179–81.

120. Ibid., pp. 182–3.

121. Newbury had been an important clothmaking town producing dyed kersey from at least 1460s, and some of its most important citizens were involved in clothmaking. See Yates, M., Town and Countryside in Western Berkshire, c. 1327–c. 1600 (Woodbridge, 2007), pp. 83–7Google Scholar. There were a small interwoven group of clothiers, fullers and dyers that supervised others’ wills, and their apprentices became clothiers when their masters died.

122. Ibid., p. 91.

123. Peacock, ‘Winchcombe Family’, p. 26.

124. Ibid., pp. 29–68, 91, 151–85.

125. TNA SP/1, p. 143.

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128. Statutes, 2&3 Ph. & Mary, c. 13; Heaton, Yorkshire, pp. 93–101; Lee, ‘Crises’, pp. 333–4.

129. Heaton, Yorkshire, pp. 146–8.

130. Ibid., pp. 97–8.

131. Gay, M. R., ‘Aspects of Elizabethan Apprenticeship’, in Cole, A. H., Dunham, A. L. and Gras, H. S. B., eds, Facts and Factors in Economic History: Articles by Former students of Edwin Francis Gay (New York, 1932), pp. 145–7Google Scholar.

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133. Zell, Industry in the Countryside, pp. 169, 183–8.

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139. Statutes, 3 Henry VIII, c. 6; Statutes, 6 Henry VIII, c. 9.

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143. L&P, Vol. XI, # 520; BL, Cotton Ms. Titus B 1, fol. 197.

144. Statutes, 5&6 Ed. VI, c. 6.

145. Statutes, 5&6 Ed. VI, c. 8. This was repealed early in Mary's reign, Statutes, 1 Mary, c. 7.

146. Statutes, 1 Mary, c. 7.

147. Statutes, 2&3 Ph. & Mary, c. 11.

148. Ramsay, Wiltshire Woollen Industry, pp. 24–5.

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