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Effects of spinning process and core yarn contents on yarn shape retention

Wei Yanhong (Key Laboratory of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China)
Xinjin Liu (Key Laboratory of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China)
Xuzhong Su (Key Laboratory of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China)
Zhao Zhimin (The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 15 January 2020

Issue publication date: 15 July 2020

136

Abstract

Purpose

In order to develop high shape retention yarn and investigate the effects of spinning process and core yarn contents on the shape retention of yarn, in this paper, three kinds of yarns, JC/T400 18.5tex (55.6dtex) core-spun yarn, JC/T400 18.5tex (44.4dtex) core-spun yarn and JC18.5tex pure cotton yarn were spun by using the complete condensing Siro-spinning technology. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the core-spun yarns were spun by using the complete condensing spinning and Siro-spinning technology. Two key spinning processes, yarn twist factor and core yarn pre-draft ratio, were optimized by using the orthogonal test method first. Then, via the variable control method, the position of the core yarn, the position of the bell mouth and the center distance between two bell mouths were optimized, respectively, and corresponding optimal spinning process of the three yarns was determined. Finally, the yarns were spun under the optimal process, and the performance of the spun yarns was tested and compared.

Findings

Results show that the yarn twist factor affects yarn strength and hairiness, the position of bell mouth affects the evenness and hairiness of the yarn mainly, and the position of the core yarn affects the coverage and hairiness of the yarn. For the Z-twist spinning, the core yarn enters the front roller from the left side of two strands center, which is beneficial to improve the covering effect of core yarn, and reduce the pilling phenomenon of the yarn. The contents of core yarn affect indicators of the yarn shape retention, such as yarn strength, elastic recovery and abrasion resistance.

Originality/value

The shape retention of yarns affects the shape retention of fabrics, and the production of yarn with high shape retention is a key step in achieving shape retention of fabrics. At present, there are little studies on the shape retention of yarns, most researchers shave focused on shape retention of fabrics. Using the complete condensing Siro-spinning method to spin the core-spun yarn can improve the quality of the yarn. Compared with traditional ring-spinning yarns, the addition of the core yarn can improve the shape retention of the yarn.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

This work was supported by National Key R&D Program of China (2017YFB0309200), Postgraduate Research & Practice Innovation Program of Jiangsu Provence (SJCX18_0623), Vice President of Science and Technology of Jiangsu Provence (FZ20180497), the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province (BK20170169), Henan Collaborative Innovation of Textile and Clothing Industry (hnfz14002), National Engineering Laboratory for Advanced Textile Processing and Clean Production (GCSYS201701), State Key Laboratory for Hubei New Textile Materials and Advanced Processing Technology (ZDSYS201701), Key Research and Development Project of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (2017B02011), A Project Funded by the Priority Academic Program Development of Jiangsu Higher Education Institutions (PAPD) and Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (JUSRP51731B).

Citation

Yanhong, W., Liu, X., Su, X. and Zhimin, Z. (2020), "Effects of spinning process and core yarn contents on yarn shape retention", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 32 No. 4, pp. 457-469. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-11-2018-0142

Publisher

:

Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2020, Emerald Publishing Limited

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