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Planta Med 2020; 86(11): 749-759
DOI: 10.1055/a-1170-7785
Biological and Pharmacological Activity
Original Papers
Georg Thieme Verlag KG Stuttgart · New York

Phenolic-rich Pomegranate Peel Extract: In Vitro, Cellular, and In Vivo Activities for Skin Hyperpigmentation Treatment

Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul
1   School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
2   Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
,
Wichayada Chongnativisit
1   School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
,
Puxvadee Chaikul
1   School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
2   Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
,
Nattaya Lourith
1   School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
2   Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand
› Author AffiliationsSupported by: Mae Fah Luang University
Further Information

Publication History

received 28 October 2019
revised 21 April 2020

accepted 29 April 2020

Publication Date:
19 May 2020 (online)

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Abstract

The pomegranate phenolics are reported to have cutaneous benefits and to be effective in treating skin disorders, including hyperpigmentation. In this context, a preparation method was developed by which to obtain phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract. Sinapic acid was presented as the major pomegranate peel phenolics, followed by gallic and ellagic acids, and 4 additional phenolics. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity with an in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory effect. The skin hyperpigmentation treating potency was confirmed by the suppression of cellular melanogenesis through tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitions as examined in the B16F10 melanoma cells. Cellular antioxidant and proliferative activities of the extract toward human dermal fibroblasts were evidenced, as well as an inhibitory effect against MMP-2. The extract was developed into the stable serum and mask. The products were proved to be non-irritated in 30 Thai volunteers participating in a single application closed patch test. A split-face, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled test of the skin lightening effect was evaluated in the 30 volunteers over 28 consecutive daily treatments and monitored by the Mexameter MX 18. The active serum and mask were better in facial skin lightening efficacy than the placebo (p < 0.005). That was in accordance with the sensory evaluation scored by the volunteers. Phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract is evidenced as a safe herbal derived material promising for skin hyperpigmentation treatment. Supportive information regarding chemical and biological profiles is presented with the confirmed safety and cutaneous benefits in volunteers.

Key words

Punica granatum - Lythraceae - pomegranate - phenolics - in vitro activities - cellular activities - skin lightening - clinical trials

Supporting Information

    Fig. 1S Safety and activity on cellular melanin production of the phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract in B16F10 melanoma cells. * The assessment was done in triplicates and presented as mean ± CI.

    Fig. 2S Inhibitory effects against tyrosinase and tyrosinase related-protein-2 (TRP-2) of the phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract in B16F10 melanoma cells. * The assessment was done in triplicates and presented as mean ± CI.

    Fig. 3S Safety and proliferation of the phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract in normal human fibroblast. * The assessment was done in triplicates and presented as mean ± CI.

    Fig. 4S Cellular antioxidant activity of the phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract in normal human fibroblast. * The assessment was done in triplicates and presented as mean ± CI.

    Fig. 5S Preference of the phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract serum scored by the volunteers. * The preference was score by 30 volunteers and presented as mean ± SEM.

    Fig. 6S Preference of the phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract mask scored by the volunteers. * The preference was score by 30 volunteers and presented as mean ± SEM.

  • Supporting Information
 

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