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Editorial Note Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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‘150 Years of the Royal School of Needlework: Crown to Catwalk’. Fashion and Textile Museum, London, UK, 1 April 2022–4 September 2022 Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Catarina Ferreira
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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‘Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear’. Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK, 19 March 2022–6 November 2022 Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Rachel Neal
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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‘The Cloth that Changed the World: India’s Painted and Printed Cottons’. Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada, 12 September 2020–2 January 2022 / Cloth that Changed the World: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Sheilagh Quaile
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalía Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Ana Balda
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men and the Culture of Needlework Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Christopher Breward
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Dressing Up: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Woven Tapestry: Guidelines for Conservation Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Kathrin Colburn
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Textiles in Burman Culture Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Roy W. Hamilton
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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The Material Culture of Basketry: Practice, Skill and Embodied Knowledge Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Celine Kerfant
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Tudor Textiles Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Jane Malcolm-Davies
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy Textile History Pub Date : 2023-07-13 Katherine Pogson
Published in Textile History (Vol. 53, No. 1, 2022)
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‘Be sure to incorporate a little history’: Nostalgia and Stories of Place in Cape Breton Overshot Weaving Textile History Pub Date : 2023-06-01 Hilary Doda
For generations, weavers in the Scottish Highland diaspora communities in Cape Breton have passed down pattern drafts for ‘overshot’ designs embedded in folklore of migration from the Highlands and Islands. This traditional style of weaving is understood by practitioners to be a direct connection to Scotland and the weaving traditions there. This article looks at overshot textiles woven in Cape Breton
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Women’s Ready-to-Wear Multiple Retailers 1860–1914: H. J. Nicoll and Alfred Stedall Textile History Pub Date : 2023-05-26 Clare Rose
This paper offers a case study of two London firms active in the production and distribution of women’s ready-to-wear clothing before 1900, H. J. Nicoll and Alfred Stedall. The sources used are registered advertising images from the Records of the Copyright Office, Stationers’ Company at The National Archives; Companies House records (also at The National Archives); and newspaper advertisements sourced
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Walls of Cloth: Tentergrounds and Cloth Production in Bruges, c. 1200–1600 Textile History Pub Date : 2023-05-18 Mathijs Speecke
The example of the tentergrounds in late medieval Bruges shows how landowners—both public and private—profited from unfavourable geo-morphological conditions to create vast industrial spaces used for the drying, stretching, and shearing of woollen cloths. A combination of evidence from historical and toponymical records gives us a unique insight into the changing scale and impact of this industry on
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Engineering Brussels Tapestry: Development, Uses and Effects of the Privilege System, 1600–1700 Textile History Pub Date : 2023-05-17 Koenraad Brosens
By conceptualising and analysing the privileges awarded to Brussels tapestry actors in the seventeenth century as serial data, and thus as a — consistently inconsistent — system, and by combining quantitative and qualitative readings of the data, this essay refines our understanding of the mechanics of Brussels baroque tapestry. One of the most salient insights is the marginal position of painters
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Steven Toms, Financing Cotton: British Industrial Growth and Decline, 1780–2000 Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Pat Hudson
(2021). Steven Toms, Financing Cotton: British Industrial Growth and Decline, 1780–2000. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 214-216.
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Claire Wilcox, Patch Work — A Life Amongst Clothes Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Lou Taylor
(2021). Claire Wilcox, Patch Work — A Life Amongst Clothes. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 230-232.
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Editorial Note Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond
(2021). Editorial Note. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 1-4.
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‘Artful Nature: Fashion and Theatricality 1770–1830’, Lewis Walpole Library, Farmington, USA, 6 February–13 March 2020 Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Zara Kesterton
(2021). ‘Artful Nature: Fashion and Theatricality 1770–1830’, Lewis Walpole Library, Farmington, USA, 6 February–13 March 2020. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 191-195.
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‘Zoom Into This Embroidered Panel for a Cabinet Door’ Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Holly Fletcher
(2021). ‘Zoom Into This Embroidered Panel for a Cabinet Door’. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 200-203.
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Articles of Interest, hosted by Avery Trufelman, https://99percentinvisible.org/aoi/ Handcut Radio, hosted by Aleks Cvetkovic, https://www.handcutradio.com Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Cyana Madsen
(2021). Articles of Interest, hosted by Avery Trufelman, https://99percentinvisible.org/aoi/ Handcut Radio, hosted by Aleks Cvetkovic, https://www.handcutradio.com. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 203-205.
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London’s Fashion Alphabet Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Rachel Neal
(2021). London’s Fashion Alphabet. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 205-209.
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‘Erica Wilson: A Life in Stitches’ Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Isabella Rosner
(2021). ‘Erica Wilson: A Life in Stitches’. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 209-212.
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Pika Ghosh, Making Kantha, Making Home: Women at Work in Colonial Bengal Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Edward S. Cooke Jr.
(2021). Pika Ghosh, Making Kantha, Making Home: Women at Work in Colonial Bengal. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 213-214.
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Tanya Heinrich, ed., Lenore Tawney: Mirror of the Universe Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Janis Jefferies
(2021). Tanya Heinrich, ed., Lenore Tawney: Mirror of the Universe. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 216-217.
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Concha Herrero Carretero, Álvaro Molina and Jesusa Vega, La Decoración ideada por François Grognard para los apartamentos de la Duquesa de Alba en el Palacio de Buenavista Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Lesley Ellis Miller
(2021). Concha Herrero Carretero, Álvaro Molina and Jesusa Vega, La Decoración ideada por François Grognard para los apartamentos de la Duquesa de Alba en el Palacio de Buenavista. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 217-219.
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Megan Cifarelli, ed., Fashioned Selves: Dress and Identity in Antiquity Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Louise Quillien
(2021). Megan Cifarelli, ed., Fashioned Selves: Dress and Identity in Antiquity. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 219-220.
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Serena Dyer and Chloe Wigston Smith, eds, Material Literacy in Eighteenth-Century Britain: A Nation of Makers Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Clare Rose
(2021). Serena Dyer and Chloe Wigston Smith, eds, Material Literacy in Eighteenth-Century Britain: A Nation of Makers. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 220-221.
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Bracha Yaniv, Ceremonial Synagogue Textiles: From Ashkenazi, Sephardi, and Italian Communities Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Nikolaos Vryzidis
(2021). Bracha Yaniv, Ceremonial Synagogue Textiles: From Ashkenazi, Sephardi, and Italian Communities. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 222-223.
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Burgu Dogramaci, ed., Textile Modernism Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Ann Coxon
(2021). Burgu Dogramaci, ed., Textile Modernism. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 223-225.
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K. L. H. Wells, Weaving Modernism: Postwar Tapestry between Paris and New York Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Janis Jefferies
(2021). K. L. H. Wells, Weaving Modernism: Postwar Tapestry between Paris and New York. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 225-226.
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Lorinda Cramer, Needlework & Women’s Identity in Colonial Australia Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Marta Kargól
(2021). Lorinda Cramer, Needlework & Women’s Identity in Colonial Australia. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 226-227.
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Kate Stephenson, A Cultural History of School Uniform Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Clare Rose
(2021). Kate Stephenson, A Cultural History of School Uniform. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 228-229.
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Danielle C. Skeehan, The Fabric of Empire: Material and Literary Cultures of the Global Atlantic, 1650–1850 Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Stacey Sloboda
(2021). Danielle C. Skeehan, The Fabric of Empire: Material and Literary Cultures of the Global Atlantic, 1650–1850. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 229-230.
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Brenda M. King, The Wardle Family and its Circle: Textile Production in the Arts and Crafts Era Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Zoë Thomas
(2021). Brenda M. King, The Wardle Family and its Circle: Textile Production in the Arts and Crafts Era. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 232-233.
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Maya Stanfield-Mazzi, Clothing the New World Church: Liturgical Textiles of Spanish America, 1520-1820 Textile History Pub Date : 2022-05-20 Linda K. Williams
(2021). Maya Stanfield-Mazzi, Clothing the New World Church: Liturgical Textiles of Spanish America, 1520-1820. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 233-235.
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Weaving Connections: Sicilian Silk in the Medieval Mediterranean Textile History Pub Date : 2022-03-31 Timothy Smit
The production of silk was an important aspect of the economy of Islamic Sicily that the Norman count and then kings of Sicily worked to maintain. The production of silk survived along with other economic practices of Islamic Sicily, such as irrigation techniques and land use. Silk continued to move along the trade routes of the Central Mediterranean into the twelfth century. While those connections
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Production of Uniform Cloth and Military Uniforms in Russia (1698–1762) Textile History Pub Date : 2022-03-28 Victoria Ivleva
This article studies a corpus of state decrees aimed at regulating production of uniform cloth and military uniforms in Russia in the period between the reign of Peter I (1682–1725) and Peter III (1762). It discusses developments and challenges faced by this nascent textile industry and their wider social and cultural implications.
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Recognising the Co-dependence of Machine and Hand in the Scottish Knitwear Industry Textile History Pub Date : 2022-03-15 Lynn Abrams, Lin Gardner
Knowledge of the economy and culture of knitted textiles in Scotland since the late eighteenth century is framed by opposing paradigms. The study of craft regards knitting as a traditional practice and focuses on the techniques and designs of the hand knitter. The industrial paradigm, on the other hand, is dominated by studies of factory production that subordinate hand knitting as an outmoded and
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Check Shirts, Flannel Jackets, Canvas Trousers: The Trade in Slops from Eighteenth-Century Liverpool Textile History Pub Date : 2021-09-08 Miles Lambert
This paper seeks primarily to survey the evidence for the involvement of Liverpool traders and dealers in the profitable slop trade supplying the Royal Navy and the ever increasing merchant fleet involved in the slave trade from Africa across the Atlantic. It will provide examples that suggest that Liverpool was ideally placed, fiercely independent and commercially dominant, to be able to seize a sizeable
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The Stocking Knitting Industry of Later Sixteenth-Century Norwich Textile History Pub Date : 2021-08-31 Lesley O’Connell Edwards
Knitted garments became increasingly common throughout the sixteenth century in England, and it has been estimated that the production of stockings alone occupied at least 90,000 knitters at the end of the century. Knitting as an economic process in England has been little studied in this period. This paper examines the evidence for knitting as an industry in the later sixteenth century in Norwich
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Behind the Seams: Global Circulations in a Group of Japanese-Inspired Cotton Nightgowns c. 1700 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-08-23 Ariane Fennetaux
Starting from close analysis of a late seventeenth-century cotton nightgown made in India that borrows its pattern from a traditional Japanese motif, this article contextualises the garment within a group of three other similar gowns to understand the complex cultural geographies they wove together. From the small material details of the making and design of these textile hybrids, the article retraces
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‘Collecting Comme’, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Australia, 31 October 2019–15 March 2020 and 27 June–9 July 2020 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-08-10 Caroleen Molenaar
(2021). ‘Collecting Comme’, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Australia, 31 October 2019–15 March 2020 and 27 June–9 July 2020. Textile History: Vol. 52, No. 1-2, pp. 195-199.
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Why Early Modern English Clothiers Started Using Spanish Wool Textile History Pub Date : 2021-08-02 Hugh Chevis
English clothiers began using Spanish merino wool in the late sixteenth century. A small, closely related group of clothier, merchant and mariner families in the west of England drove this initiative. Why they did so is debated. This paper analyses the factors driving the clothiers’ decision. Production, supply and price can be discounted as there was an adequate supply of both English and Spanish
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Women’s Dress and the Demise of the Tailoring Monopoly: Farthingale-Makers, Body-Makers and the Changing Textile Marketplace of Seventeenth-Century London Textile History Pub Date : 2021-06-23 Sarah A. Bendall
By 1700 tailors no longer dominated England’s garment marketplace, as stay-makers, mantua-makers and seamstresses now produced key items of female dress. The demise of the tailoring monopoly was a complex process involving many factors. This article examines an aspect of this transition that has been previously overlooked in histories of garment production: farthingale-makers and body-makers. These
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Editorial Note Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Marina Moskowitz, Vivienne Richmond
(2020). Editorial Note. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 115-116.
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Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10
(2020). Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 117-117.
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The Rise and Fall of the Spinning Jenny: Domestic Mechanisation in Eighteenth-Century Cotton Spinning Textile History Pub Date : 2021-01-15 John Styles
(2020). The Rise and Fall of the Spinning Jenny: Domestic Mechanisation in Eighteenth-Century Cotton Spinning. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 195-236.
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‘An English Lady’s Wardrobe’, Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool, UK, 25 October 2019–1 March 2020 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Emma Bastin
(2020). ‘An English Lady’s Wardrobe’, Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool, UK, 25 October 2019–1 March 2020. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 237-240.
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‘The Georgian Edit’, Fairfax House, York, UK, 23 August– 31 December 2019 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Holly Day
(2020). ‘The Georgian Edit’, Fairfax House, York, UK, 23 August– 31 December 2019. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 240-242.
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‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK, 29 February–18 March and 27 August–25 October 2020 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Zoe Hendon
(2020). ‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK, 29 February–18 March and 27 August–25 October 2020. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 242-247.
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‘Unbound: Visionary Women Collecting Textiles’, Two Temple Place, London, UK, 25 January–19 April 2020 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Vanessa Jones
(2020). ‘Unbound: Visionary Women Collecting Textiles’, Two Temple Place, London, UK, 25 January–19 April 2020. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 247-251.
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‘Madge Gill: Myrninerest’, William Morris Gallery, Walthamstow, UK, 22 June–22 September 2019 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Helen Victoria Murray
(2020). ‘Madge Gill: Myrninerest’, William Morris Gallery, Walthamstow, UK, 22 June–22 September 2019. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 251-253.
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‘Dressed to the Nines’, Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, 7 December 2019–4 September 2020 Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Caroline Ness
(2020). ‘Dressed to the Nines’, Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, 7 December 2019–4 September 2020. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 254-257.
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Alit Djajasoebrata, Flowers from Universe: Textiles of Java Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Ruth Barnes
(2020). Alit Djajasoebrata, Flowers from Universe: Textiles of Java. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 258-259.
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Malcolm Smith, Hats: A Very UNnatural History Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Clair Hughes
(2020). Malcolm Smith, Hats: A Very UNnatural History. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 259-260.
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Jools Gilson and Nicola Moffat, eds, Textiles, Community and Controversy: The Knitting Map Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Alla Myzelev
(2020). Jools Gilson and Nicola Moffat, eds, Textiles, Community and Controversy: The Knitting Map. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 260-262.
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Charlotte Jirousek with Sara Catterall, Ottoman Dress and Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange Textile History Pub Date : 2021-03-10 Amanda Phillips
(2020). Charlotte Jirousek with Sara Catterall, Ottoman Dress and Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange. Textile History: Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 262-263.