In this work, a wave run-up monitoring system and a model for forecasting the wave run-up height on a seawall were developed. Electrical conductivity sensors were installed on the seaward slopes of seawalls to measure the wave run-up heights. The general packet radio service protocol was used to transmit the measured data in real time to the desired remote location. The Princeton Ocean Model and WAVEWATCH

Wave energy is one of renewable energy resources with great potential. Due to the mechanical and structural simplicity, Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) is considered to be one of the most promising marine renewable energy devices. However, OWC remains not commercialized mainly due to its complex hydrodynamic performance and uncertainty in wave loads. In the present study

Coastal barrier islands serve as the first line of defense against storm-induced hazards and coastal erosion. Due to sea-level rise and more frequently occurring storms, barrier island restoration and rehabilitation have become more important for coastal protection. The current-state-of-the practice for simulation of barrier island restoration design mostly overlooks consolidation as one of the governing

This paper considers wave loads on bottom mounted vertical cylinders in the regime relevant to offshore wind turbine monopiles, examining the higher harmonics of the loading from non-breaking waves which are important in engineering design. Although we consider measurements of total force, our focus is on the moments applied about the seabed which have received much less attention in the literature

This paper presents an experimental study on scour at complex bridge piers exposed to combined waves and current. Regular waves were produced with various strength and superimposed on co-directional current with constant velocity. The key parameters tested and discussed include Keulegan–Carpenter (KC) number, relative current strength Ucw, pile-cap elevation, and pier skewness. The scour hole patterns

Mass balance analysis of ice sheets is a key component to understand the effects of global warming with iceberg calving as a significant contributor. Calving recently generated tsunamis of up to 50 m in amplitude endangering human beings and coastal infrastructure. Such iceberg-tsunamis (IBTs) have been investigated based on 66 unique large-scale experiments conducted in a 50 m × 50 m large basin at

Oblique wave attack can significantly reduce the amount of wave overtopping at coastal structures compared to perpendicular wave attack. Guidelines exist to estimate the influence of oblique waves on wave overtopping. Guidelines to estimate the influence of a berm in the seaward slope are also available. These guidelines for the reducing effects of oblique waves and the reducing effects of a berm are

To withstand the local wave climate, coastal structure design relies on our understanding of the wave characteristics at the structure wall and the forces they impose onto the wall. However, despite the vast number of protective structures along our coasts, detailed field observations of waves measured directly at the structure wall are virtually absent. In this study, rare observations of wave characteristics

Beach scarps are nearly vertical seaward facing sandy cliffs within the cross-shore beach profile. These features are often associated with eroding (nourished) coastlines and can reach heights of O(2–3 m). An analysis of a six-year dataset of beach scarp presence at the nourished Sand Engine beach shows that the formation of beach scarps at the nourishment is linked to mildly erosive (summer storm)

Satellite images may constitute a useful source of information for coastal monitoring as long as it is possible to manage them in an efficient way and to derive precise indicators of the state of the beaches. In the present work, SHOREX system is employed for managing and processing Landsat 8 and Sentinel 2 images to automatically define the instantaneous shoreline position at sub-pixel level. Between

Multi-functional platform is a promising way to enhance the economic power production from multiple renewable energy sources. This paper investigates numerically and experimentally the hydrodynamic performance of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter (WEC), integrated into a monopile-mounted offshore wind turbine (OWT). Based on linear potential flow theory, a 3D time-domain numerical

Understanding the boundary layer flow structure at the tip of a swash flow is important for improving predictions of wave run-up, coastal flooding and sediment transport processes on beaches, but this is difficult to investigate experimentally. Recently, there has been debate regarding the mechanics of boundary layer growth during the uprush flow. Here, an extensively validated RANS model is used to

As the frequency and intensity of storms increase, a growing need exists for resilient shore protection techniques that have both environmental and economic benefits. In addition to producing seafood, aquaculture farms may also provide coastal protection benefits either alone or with other nature-based structures. In this paper, a generalized three-layer frequency dependent theoretical model is derived

Coastal hazard at the residential scale, resulting from the combined effects of storm surge and waves including dynamic set-up and wave runup, is assessed for the local 100-year Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) in Narragansett, RI, USA, based on high resolution (2 m) simulations with the nonlinear phase-resolving Boussinesq wave model FUNWAVE. The accuracy of wave-flow-structure interaction modeling is

This paper proposes a novel response surface-based method for probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment (PTHA). Although recent advancements in numerical simulation have enabled the accurate characterization of tsunami hazards, the high computational cost of numerical simulation often prohibits its broad application to probabilistic hazard analysis. The proposed method addresses this challenge by constructing

Coastal risk assessments rely on proper quantification of storm-induced erosion and flooding, and often involve calculations via numerical models. When the real time-series data of a storm are not available as forcing conditions and only bulk information is accessible, synthetic simplified time-evolutions are assumed. The most common approach in coastal studies uses a symmetric triangular storm shape

Vegetation can change flow structure and turbulence characteristics. However, few studies have focused on combined wave–current flows in canopy with vertically varying density. Therefore, laboratory experiments were carried out to investigate hydrodynamics affected by submerged rigid vegetation with different densities (i.e. sparse, dense and vertically varying density) under waves, currents and combined

In a changing climate, sea level rise and projected regional–scale changes in storminess may increase the vulnerability of sandy coastlines to coastal erosion and flooding. As a result, there is increased interest in the development of adaptable, sustainable and effective coastal protection measures to protect these highly variable sandy coastlines. One such example is a dynamic cobble berm revetment;

The paper proposes a method of detection of erosion-prone, multiple bar beaches only based on recorded bathymetric profiles, without any (frequently missing) hydrodynamic information. For this purpose a 45 km long, pristine coastal segment of the Polish coast was analyzed; the bathymetric profiles there, spaced every 500 m, were measured in 2005 and 2011 from a dune/cliff crest up to a seabed depth

This paper presents a numerical model designed to simulate subaqueous cross-shore profile behavior, including response of feeder mounds and barred systems. The present model development builds on the semi-empirical model proposed by Larson et al. (2013), designed to simulate the evolution of longshore bars exposed to incident waves, as well as the exchange of material between the bar and the berm region

This paper presents an innovative vertical breakwater cross-section integrating an overtopping wave energy converter, named OBREC-V, and the analysis of its hydraulic performance and stability response to hydraulic loading. The structure is composed of a vertically-faced caisson with a sloping ramp on the top, a reservoir and a set-back crown-wall. The analysis of the structure is carried out by performing

The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, “XB-SB”) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, “XB-NH”) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Field observations on water levels, wave heights, and wave runup were used to drive and evaluate both models, which were subsequently used

Accurate suspended sediment concentration measurements are key to understand and quantify the sediment transport patterns in the surf and swash zones. One of the most widely used instruments to collect suspended sediment concentrations is the Optical Backscatter Sensor (OBS). However, the OBS is known to give erroneous readings when deployed in bubbly environments like the surf zone. The present study

Water surface level exceedances and extreme flooding for Australia's most exposed estuary, Swansea Channel, was estimated using sea level rise epistemic uncertainty with symmetric and asymmetric shapes. Flood estimates were obtained using a simple hydraulic model what was applied within a statistical simulation, included atmospheric and oceanic forcing and their aleatory uncertainties. These predictions

In studies on harbor oscillations, modes with extremely narrow amplification diagrams are common. The numerical simulation results obtained by Bellotti (2007) and Ma et al. (2020) for these modes (termed as extreme modes) based on regular waves are first validated by physical experiments in this study. Moreover, we investigate whether the extreme mode can be induced by irregular waves and solitary

Coastal management in the Netherlands has the aim to defend coastal zones by preventing flooding and mitigating erosion. To that end, large-scale nourishments are placed in the nearshore, which are supposed to dynamically preserve the coastal zone over a timescale of years. To assess their effectiveness, these nourishments are monitored over large areas and long durations. As repetitive, in-situ measurements

Wave height, pressure and orbital velocity statistics, as influenced by the factor of water depth, are analyzed on the basis of five data sets collected in situ from two intertidal sites with a mean water depth of 0.8–2.7 m and three inner shelf sites (water depths 14.6–27.6 m). Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) were used to measure instantaneous wave pressure and current velocity at 0.20–0.35 m

The breaking of gravity water waves induces both strong turbulence near the free surface and air–water mixing, which are not captured in currently-available single-phase, non-hydrostatic Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) models. In order to account for such dynamics, the boundary conditions proposed by Brocchini (2002) have been implemented in a two-dimensional vertical (2DV) non-hydrostatic RANS

Mound breakwaters are usually designed to limit the mean wave overtopping rate (q) or the maximum individual wave overtopping volume (Vmax). However, rarely do studies focus on wave overtopping volumes on breakwaters in depth-limited breaking wave conditions. This study analyzes 2D physical tests on mound breakwaters with relevant overtopping rates (0.33 ≤ Rc/Hm0 ≤ 2.83) and three armor layers (Cubipod®-1L

The applicability of pressure-impulse theory is evaluated for predicting wave impact loading magnitudes for non-breaking standing wave impacts on vertical hydraulic structures with relatively short overhangs. To this end, tests were carried out on a schematized but realistic configuration with low steepness regular wave impacts on a straight overhang perpendicular to a vertical wall. This paper aims

Dredging and excavation activities on fringing reefs have potential impacts such as the coastal inundation during extreme wave events, and no published laboratory experiments have addressed this issue. To verify the previous findings from both field observations and numerical simulations, and focus on evaluating the alteration of wave processes over fringing reefs by an excavation pit, a new set of

A laboratory and numerical investigation on the features of the horizontal and vertical hydrodynamic loads given by a solitary wave on a submerged square barrier is presented. By the experimental viewpoint, the wave forces were deduced from the records of a discrete battery of pressure sensors located along the external surface of the barrier. As regards the numerical viewpoint, simulations were performed

In extreme storm conditions, a levee would be subject to a combination of wave overtopping and surge overflow, namely combined wave and surge overtopping, which is easier to induce catastrophic levee failures than common wave overtopping. One of the significant differences between combined wave and surge overtopping and wave overtopping is that downward-flushing flows are formed on the levee crest

Coastal erosion is driven by both a storm’s erosion potential and by an area’s vulnerability. Therefore, the problem of estimating impacts can be approached in two-step. The first includes an assessment of erosion potential based on readily available storm parameters, while the second combines this information with highly localized parameters, describing vulnerability, to more directly predict local

This research focuses on the development of a simple and efficient transect based long-term shoreline model. The new modeling tool is a combination of a model for the shoreline changes due to the gradients in longshore drift and a heuristic cross-shore shoreline model. The cross-shore part of the model uses an up-to-date semi-empirical shoreline evolution model based on the equilibrium beach state

The assessment of extreme significant wave heights is crucial for the design of coastal defences and offshore infrastructures, which requires independent and identically distributed samples to be extracted. To extract independent samples at the regional scale, an automated method is proposed by extending an observational method. In addition to the initial threshold, a minimum interval is used to identify

The stability evaluation of artificial submarine slope under wave load is a primary concern in the construction of offshore structures such as submarine pipelines and immersed tunnels. Aiming at this issue, an integrated Finite Element Method (FEM) model of wave-seabed interaction is proposed to investigate the effects of wave action on the wave-induced slope stability of the temporary trench. The

The aim of this study is to determine the tsunami potential of the southern Turkish coast through hypothetical earthquake scenarios developed for several critical coastal sites in the region. A well-known tsunami numerical model (MOST) is utilized to calculate the run-up and inundation of the subsequent tsunami waves. The coastal regions selected to realize the aim of the study are Akkuyu and Yeşilovacık

We study the swash flow driven by breaking waves of elevation using two sets of large-scale experiments with a focus on understanding how wave properties control the flow evolution on the beach. In the first set of experiments, we test solitary waves and waveforms that have the same acceleration phase and wave height as the solitary waves, but an elongated deceleration phase. The results show that

The wave-attenuation performances and hydrodynamics of moored box-type floating breakwaters with the same weight, same wall thickness, and six different cross-sections, i.e. circular, triangle-down, triangle-up, rectangular, trapezoid-down, and trapezoid-up, are investigated numerically using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. Coupling between DualSPHysics and MoorDyn is implemented

Previous studies demonstrated an introduction of building opening could decrease the tsunami loads on the external wall. However, tsunami waves flowing through the building opening could induce loads on the interior part. This study presented an experimental investigation of tsunami flow through a real building with opening. Three nominal wave conditions with wave overtopping and non-overtopping cases

In coastal engineering context, the use of video imagery is widespread. Especially in field settings along sandy coasts, many types of data have been derived from video imagery, often using non-learning analysis techniques. Recent advances in the field of computer vision and deep learning allow for the automation of image segmentation. In this paper, these techniques are combined with video imagery

In this paper, the cross-shore propagation and shoaling of bound infragravity (IG) waves have been investigated. By establishing a conceptual 1D model utilizing a constant slope in the shoaling zone, a semi-analytical solution for bound IG waves could be obtained. Through the use of this semi-analytical solution, a collection of bichromatic conditions have been simulated, thus confirming the dependence

The main objective of this research is to characterize and quantify the prevalent physical processes in the energy transformation of a regular wave train when it interacts with permeable and impermeable breakwaters. Two sources of experimental data are considered: (a) numerical experiments on an undefined impermeable rigid slope, using the numerical model (IH–2VOF), and (b) physical experiments on

A general framework for wave separation in the frequency domain is presented and evaluated with successful results using theoretical examples of nonlinear waves. This framework consists of a qualitative and a quantitative analysis. The qualitative analysis is a novel approach that provides useful information about the existing wave trains within a wave field. This information includes an estimation

Barrier islands are susceptible to erosion, overwash, and breaching during intense storms. However, these processes are not represented typically in large-domain models for storm surge and coastal inundation. In this study, we explore the requirements for bridging the gap between dune-scale morphodynamic and region-scale flooding models. A high-resolution XBeach model is developed to represent the

Coastal dunes can provide protection from flooding during extreme weather events. As such, consideration should be given to strengthening the protective mechanisms of dunes. Vegetation has recently been seen as an important factor influencing erosion processes on dunes. Another means of dune reinforcement is the installation of internal structures within dune systems. The purpose of this work is to

We present the experimental analysis of the interaction between wind waves and currents, during the generation process, through laboratory experiments in a wind-waves-current tunnel. The objective is the quantification of the effects of a co-/counter-current on the main characteristics and statistical estimators of the wave field. Twenty-two experiments were performed with two different wind speed

Sand nourishments are increasingly applied as adaptive coastal protection measures. Predictions of the evolution of these nourishments and their impact on the surrounding coastline contain many uncertainties. The sources that add to this uncertainty can be delineated between intrinsic and epistemic uncertainty, i.e. inevitably in the system or related to knowledge limitations. Effects of intrinsic

The analysis of damage in rubble mound scour protections is crucial for the armour stability assessment. Former methodologies focused on the analysis of the maximum damage number. This work introduces a complementary methodology to determine and characterize damage statistical distribution based on a flexible arrangement of sub-areas. The sub-areas are overlapping and can be varied in size, allowing

Focused wave groups are traveling waves characterized by extremely-large transient wave amplitudes and very short durations. These waves usually cause serious damage to marine/offshore structures and coastal infrastructures, and can even result in human casualties (Nikolkina and Didenkulova, 2011). The studies on natural disasters related to the focused wave groups near the coastal zone have been mostly

Existing empirical and theoretical models for swash overtopping are considered and reconciled by using the positive volume flux of the incident waves and deficit in freeboard as scaling parameters. This scaling holds for solitary waves, monochromatic waves and random waves. The empirical model of Battjes (1974a), the EurOtop model (EurOtop, 2016) and the theoretical model of Peregrine and Williams

We present the development of a high-efficiency and high-resolution subgrid model for simulating surface water and groundwater interaction in coastal regions. The governing equations are derived based on an assumption of the fully-saturated subsurface flow and a phase-averaging method, in which two phase functions are defined respectively for the surface phase and subsurface phase at the subgrid level

The Tsunami-HySEA model is used to perform the five numerical benchmarks proposed in the “NTHMP/MMS Benchmarking Workshop: Tsunami currents”. Many different model configurations and sensitivity studies were performed for the different benchmarks, combining numerical methods of first, second, and third order, different friction laws, varying friction coefficients and numerical resolutions, or even different

Natural and man-induced coastal erosion endanger life and environment in coastal areas worldwide. For sedimentary barrier coasts, beach and underwater nourishments are an efficient coastal protection strategy. To optimize nourishments and to understand their impact on the marine environment, monitoring strategies are required. In this study, we investigate the potential of multibeam echosounder (MBES)

Although commonly used for the validation of morphological predictions, point-wise accuracy metrics, such as the root-mean-squared error (RMSE), are not well suited to demonstrate the quality of a high-variability prediction; in the presence of (often inevitable) location errors, the comparison of depth values per grid point tends to favour predictions that underestimate variability. In order to overcome

New large-scale experiments on the influence of storm sequencing on beach profile evolution are presented. The experiments comprised three sequences that commenced from the same initial beach profile. Each sequence consisted of two storms of different energy, with each storm followed by a recovery phase. A specific focus of the experiments was the influence of storm chronology as well as the influence

In this paper, we present measurements of force distribution on a vertical, circular cylinder exposed to shoaling regular waves. The cylinder was divided into four individual sections on which the wave loads were measured. Furthermore, we measured the wave kinematics with Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and with Laser Doppler Velocimetry (LDV) in a few reference cases. The force distribution was measured

WAVEWATCH III has been equipped with a new parallelization algorithm, domain decomposition and an optional implicit numerical scheme for coastal application at high spatial resolution with triangular unstructured grids, compatible with community-based coupling infrastructure. We performed a validation study for Hurricane Ike (2008) to prove the accuracy of the updated model against satellite altimeter

In this paper an Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (ISPH) method solving the 2D RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes) equations with the k–ε turbulence closure is constructed. In the present model, the concept of “massless ISPH” utilizing the definition of “particle density” (number of computational particles within unit volume) is stressed. The skills of this numerical model are tested