This paper present numerical computations of solitary wave impact on a vertical wall. Different wave breaking cases were studied such as the high-aerated (air-pocket) or low-aerated (flip-through) in order to test the software ability to accurately reproduce the generated wall pressure loads. The numerical toolbox OpenFOAM was used here under the incompressible and compressible assumptions, together

Large tsunamis pose an immense threat to the inhabitants and infrastructure of coastal communities. The hazard related to coastal flooding events depends not only on the hydrodynamic loading itself, but also on the amount of debris entrained and displaced by the flood. To date, limited knowledge on the interaction of tsunami-induced inundation and free-floating solid objects has been developed. Thus

A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better result for the dispersion relation and shoaling of waves in intermediate

The erosion of marine sediments, although difficult to predict, can lead to important implications in offshore engineering, sedimentology and coastal management. Continued research is, therefore, warranted to compile high-quality erosion data from which to develop models to better predict the erosion resistance of different types of marine sediments. In this paper, dimensional analysis is performed

Landslide tsunamis and impulse waves are hazardous events with severe socioeconomic impacts. A long standing problem with simulations of these events is the generation stage, where landslides and water interact. Depth-averaged models like the Saint-Venant or Boussinesq Equations lose their validity for such applications. Therefore, we have to rely on a full treatment of the hydrodynamics, for instance

Laboratory wave flume experiments in coastal engineering and physical oceanography are widely used to provide an improved understanding of morphodynamic processes. Wave flume facilities around the world vary greatly in their physical dimensions and differences in the resulting distortion of the modelled processes are reconciled using scaling laws. However, it is known that perfect model-prototype scaling

SFINCS, a new reduced-physics solver to compute compound flooding in coastal systems due to fluvial, pluvial, tidal, wind- and wave-driven processes in a computationally efficient way, is presented and validated for a number of verification and application cases. The model solves simplified equations of mass and momentum, which are driven by storm surge and wave boundary conditions, precipitation rates

In this paper, an extended numerical analysis of the “confined-crest impact” (hereinafter referred as “C–CI”), induced by non-breaking waves on recurved parapet walls, is presented to better understand the physics and characteristics of this impulsive wave phenomenon, which significantly depends on the geometry of the parapet (here made by a sector of circumference) as well as on non-breaking wave

Small-amplitude water waves passing through a suspended canopy is studied. The area of suspended canopy is modeled by an array of vertical rigid cylinders with periodic spacing. Assuming that the diameter of cylinders and their spacing are much smaller than the typical incident wavelength, the homogenization theory (method of multiple-scale perturbation) is applied to create coupled micro-scale (cylinder

Wave environment equivalent to the full-scale nearshore storm was generated in a large wave flume, and the flow within wave boundary layer was measured using an acoustic Vectrino profiler. Analysis were made on various factors including the velocity profile, phase lead, boundary layer thickness, steady streaming, turbulence as well as bottom shear stress, and comparisons were made with existing studies

Wave overtopping is a key process in coastal protection and its assessment defines the design of the sea defence structures. An existing knowledge gap in wave overtopping prediction is identified for steep low-crested structures, i.e., structures with steep slopes up to the limit case of vertical structures, with small relative freeboards down to the limit case of zero freeboards. This type of structure

Sea level rise due to climate change, as well as social pressure to decrease the visual impact of coastal structures, have led to reduced crest freeboards, and this increases the overtopping hazard. In previous studies, pedestrian safety during overtopping events was assessed considering the overtopping layer thickness (OLT) and the overtopping flow velocity (OFV). This study analyzed the statistics

A two-dimensional numerical model was used to study the wave overtopping performance above perforated caisson breakwaters under regular waves. The turbulent flow was simulated by solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the k–ε turbulence model equations. In the numerical wave flume, the free surface was tracked by the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method, and a relaxation zone was

This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The experiments were performed using monochromatic waves and a linearly sloping bed. The results show that offshore wind conditions delay wave breaking and promote steep breakers, while onshore wind conditions extend the surf zone

The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically able to simulate the dominant low-frequency swash, previous

Tidal sand waves are large-scale bed forms found in shallow sandy seas, which show a migration of several meters per year. Field data from the Dutch part of the North Sea revealed a migration pattern causing bidirectional migration of sand waves over a sand bank, resulting in sand wave migration uphill from both sides of the sand bank. In order to understand the physical mechanisms behind this migration

Runup on a slender cylindrical column exposed to long, steep waves, at finite and great depth is quantified by high speed camera technique in wave channel. Ratio between water depth (h) and cylinder diameter (D) is h/D=10,4.16,2.5. Breaking and non-breaking wave events are made by focusing technique. The trough-to-trough period (TTT), crest height (η0.m), frequency (ω=2π/TTT) and reference speed (g/ω)

The rotation of beaches is important and should be more pronounced under high energy conditions with significant changes in wave direction. Shoreline rotation occurs when one end of a beach accretes, while the opposite retreats. This phenomenon is attributed to periodic or long-term changes in wave climate. To simulate the variability of the shoreline orientation in a simple and efficient way, the

In order to investigate the rip current formed between the ends of breaking wave crests, a laboratory experiment was conducted over a bathymetry with an equilibrium profile. For the experiment, pseudo intersecting wave trains were produced in a wave basin, where regular waves were generated by running two parts of wave maker out of phase. The pseudo intersecting wave trains were compared with the intersecting

This paper and its companion (Di Paolo et al. (b), submitted) present near-far field coupling schemes of Navier-Stokes (NS) equations for high-fidelity numerical modelling of wave generation, transformation and interaction with structures. The computational domain is subdivided into near and far field zones (2D and 3D subdomains, respectively) in which the NS equations are solved adopting the Finite

Tsunami induced Large Driftwood (TLD) can cause significant damage to a coastal environment. In a tsunami, TLD can become an additional impact and a drag force against a coastal structure. Modern research is now showing that hybrid-structures provide a more optimal solution against mitigating tsunami-related damages. Hybrid-structures involve structures like moats, embankments, and forests. This study

Reduction of risks due to overtopping of coastal defences is an essential requirement for the design, management and adaptation of coastal structures. Extensive knowledge is available on the prediction of overtopping of smooth, sloping and vertical impermeable seawalls. The existing prediction methods provide less certain guidance for combined wind and swell conditions. This experimental study focuses

Large (km-scale) mangrove forests can provide protection to shorelines and near-coast structures during extreme coastal flood events, including tsunamis and tropical cyclones. However, little is known about the effects of mangroves with a modest cross-shore thickness (~10–50 m), on flow hydrodynamics and resulting inland pressures and forces on near-coast structures. We constructed a 1:16 geometric-scale

This paper highlights the importance of spilling breaking waves in the design of offshore structures. Although wave loading on offshore structures due to non-breaking waves has been extensively studied, wave loading due to breaking waves is uncertain and not very well understood. Plunging breaking waves in deep water are very unusual, whereas spilling breaking waves are very common in extreme seas

Air-sea interaction is a relevant topic with still many open questions, also in consideration of the numerous and complex scenarios that occur in nature. In this manuscript we report an experimental study of partially-reflected regular (long) waves under the action of an opposite wind, which generates short wind-waves (wind generated water waves, WGW). Wind blows against the incident wave, and therefore

A large body of work has been devoted to the accurate detection and simulation of wave breaking in coastal areas. It is a key process for a wide range of engineering activities and environmental issues. This has motivated the development of a variety of breaking onset criteria, such as kinematic criteria based on a maximum value (usually unity) of the ratio uc/c, of the horizontal particle velocity

We examined a potential strategy for mitigating injury and death during tsunamis by conducting numerical simulations for a vertical-evacuation structure with a breakaway ground floor. The simulation produced the uplifting load on the bottom slab, the frontal impact force and the overturning moment, depending on the structure's size and bottom-slab elevation, and the wave's Froude number. With a proper

New experiments involving the three-dimensional current-induced live-bed scour beneath submerged horizontal pipelines are presented, spanning larger Shields parameter and cylinder-to-sediment diameter ratio than previous studies. Specific emphasis is on gaining a better understanding of, and ability to predict, the span migration velocity during the initial and subsequent development of such a scour

At the nearshore area of Norderney, the ebb-tidal delta (ETD) sandbanks exert a huge impact on the local wave climate, which is of particular interest for coastal protection. Besides an eastward migration of the sandbanks with a mean velocity from 435 to 491m/y, depending on the plates position, the ETD sandbanks had a high variability in shape and size. Therefore, the influence of those morphodynamic

The nearshore wave action at many barrier reefs or reef atolls can generate wave setup and drive a 2DH reef-lagoon-channel circulation. Previous laboratory studies on such reef-lagoon-channel system focused mainly on the 1DH wave-flume experiments without considering the alongshore wave dynamics. To better understand the wave-induced setup and wave-driven current in a reef-lagoon-channel system, a

The bivariate distribution of zero-up-crossing wave heights and associated periods is important in the stochastic modelling of ocean waves and is of theoretical and practical interest among scientists and engineers. Recently, joint descriptions in mixed sea states have garnered attention. The present study proposes a mixture bivariate lognormal model to characterise the joint distribution in sea states

Port development – as key aspect of sustained economic growth – implies large investments in coastal structures, increasing the risk of structural failures and operational stoppages due to coastal hazards. Then, this paper presents a new approach to statistically characterize and simulate the long-term wave climate to be applied in port risk assessment methodologies in a context of uncertainty. As

In natural beaches, sea-beds consist of graded sediments. In swash and surf zones, wave actions lead to selective transportation and segregation of sediments. Thus, size segregation needs to be considered while determining the sediment transport rate and morphological dynamics on beaches. However, because of the strong non-linearity and the large deformed free surface, previous experimental or observational

The effects of sea level rise (SLR) are relevant to the future evolution of coasts and estuaries. This study analyses the importance of different SLR trends on the morphological evolution of a mixed-energy fine-sediment coast (the Caofeidian Sea in Bohai Bay, China) using a validated numerical model. Results show that SLR produces spatially non-uniform relative morphodynamic responses, depending on

The response of nourished beaches to sea level rise is investigated experimentally with random waves in a laboratory wave flume (20 m × 1 m × 1 m), following on from a previous investigation of the response of non-nourished beaches (Atkinson et al., 2018). The nourishments are placed on beach profiles previously exposed to sufficient durations of waves to have approached a near-equilibrium state, i

Novel observations of bar features and migration patterns at three Italian sandy beaches in Senigallia (central Adriatic Sea) and Terracina (central Tyrrhenian Sea) are presented. While two of these beaches are unprotected, one is artificially embayed through the presence of a concrete jetty. Bar locations and motions are analysed with video imagery data sets from coastal monitoring stations. Wave

Steady free-surface flows around buildings occurring during flood or tsunami events can produce major damages and a quantification of the post-peak forces is essential for safety and resilience of coastal structures. The loading process is highly affected by the flow Froude number and the drag coefficient, commonly defined for highly subcritical flows, while field observations of tsunami flows reported

The objective of this study was to evaluate the temporal and spatial performance of the XBeach model predicting storm surge-induced erosion and breaching on the basis of a two-dimensional field case. Within the scope of a physical experiment, a large-scale artificial unvegetated research dune was built at the German Baltic Sea Coastline and surveyed before, during and after a surge event to generate

Experimental investigations measuring both bed elevation changes and near-structure flow velocities were undertaken to investigate wave scour processes around a model Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) for a range of incident wave conditions at approximately 1:20 scale. The experiment design was informed by a proposed 200 kW OWC WEC deployment site at King Island, Australia

Laboratory experiments have been carried out to investigate wave damping over the seabed, in which the excess pore pressure and free surface elevations are synchronously measured for examining the wave-induced soil dynamics and wave kinematics. Two types of soil, namely fine sand and silt, are tested to examine the role of soil in the wave damping. Observation of experiments shows that (i) soil liquefaction

The progressive expansion of offshore wind energy towards greater water depths demands for an optimization of foundation structure designs to a wider range of load conditions. In offshore waters, wind driven wave irregularity and directionality become important aspects of realistic sea states. To further improve the scour prediction in marine environment a novel experimental study was conducted to

In this work, a wave run-up monitoring system and a model for forecasting the wave run-up height on a seawall were developed. Electrical conductivity sensors were installed on the seaward slopes of seawalls to measure the wave run-up heights. The general packet radio service protocol was used to transmit the measured data in real time to the desired remote location. The Princeton Ocean Model and WAVEWATCH

This paper considers wave loads on bottom mounted vertical cylinders in the regime relevant to offshore wind turbine monopiles, examining the higher harmonics of the loading from non-breaking waves which are important in engineering design. Although we consider measurements of total force, our focus is on the moments applied about the seabed which have received much less attention in the literature

Mass balance analysis of ice sheets is a key component to understand the effects of global warming with iceberg calving as a significant contributor. Calving recently generated tsunamis of up to 50 m in amplitude endangering human beings and coastal infrastructure. Such iceberg-tsunamis (IBTs) have been investigated based on 66 unique large-scale experiments conducted in a 50 m × 50 m large basin at

Wave energy is one of renewable energy resources with great potential. Due to the mechanical and structural simplicity, Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) is considered to be one of the most promising marine renewable energy devices. However, OWC remains not commercialized mainly due to its complex hydrodynamic performance and uncertainty in wave loads. In the present study

Coastal barrier islands serve as the first line of defense against storm-induced hazards and coastal erosion. Due to sea-level rise and more frequently occurring storms, barrier island restoration and rehabilitation have become more important for coastal protection. The current-state-of-the practice for simulation of barrier island restoration design mostly overlooks consolidation as one of the governing

To withstand the local wave climate, coastal structure design relies on our understanding of the wave characteristics at the structure wall and the forces they impose onto the wall. However, despite the vast number of protective structures along our coasts, detailed field observations of waves measured directly at the structure wall are virtually absent. In this study, rare observations of wave characteristics

Oblique wave attack can significantly reduce the amount of wave overtopping at coastal structures compared to perpendicular wave attack. Guidelines exist to estimate the influence of oblique waves on wave overtopping. Guidelines to estimate the influence of a berm in the seaward slope are also available. These guidelines for the reducing effects of oblique waves and the reducing effects of a berm are

This paper presents an experimental study on scour at complex bridge piers exposed to combined waves and current. Regular waves were produced with various strength and superimposed on co-directional current with constant velocity. The key parameters tested and discussed include Keulegan–Carpenter (KC) number, relative current strength Ucw, pile-cap elevation, and pier skewness. The scour hole patterns

Satellite images may constitute a useful source of information for coastal monitoring as long as it is possible to manage them in an efficient way and to derive precise indicators of the state of the beaches. In the present work, SHOREX system is employed for managing and processing Landsat 8 and Sentinel 2 images to automatically define the instantaneous shoreline position at sub-pixel level. Between

Multi-functional platform is a promising way to enhance the economic power production from multiple renewable energy sources. This paper investigates numerically and experimentally the hydrodynamic performance of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter (WEC), integrated into a monopile-mounted offshore wind turbine (OWT). Based on linear potential flow theory, a 3D time-domain numerical

Understanding the boundary layer flow structure at the tip of a swash flow is important for improving predictions of wave run-up, coastal flooding and sediment transport processes on beaches, but this is difficult to investigate experimentally. Recently, there has been debate regarding the mechanics of boundary layer growth during the uprush flow. Here, an extensively validated RANS model is used to

As the frequency and intensity of storms increase, a growing need exists for resilient shore protection techniques that have both environmental and economic benefits. In addition to producing seafood, aquaculture farms may also provide coastal protection benefits either alone or with other nature-based structures. In this paper, a generalized three-layer frequency dependent theoretical model is derived

Coastal hazard at the residential scale, resulting from the combined effects of storm surge and waves including dynamic set-up and wave runup, is assessed for the local 100-year Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) in Narragansett, RI, USA, based on high resolution (2 m) simulations with the nonlinear phase-resolving Boussinesq wave model FUNWAVE. The accuracy of wave-flow-structure interaction modeling is

This paper proposes a novel response surface-based method for probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment (PTHA). Although recent advancements in numerical simulation have enabled the accurate characterization of tsunami hazards, the high computational cost of numerical simulation often prohibits its broad application to probabilistic hazard analysis. The proposed method addresses this challenge by constructing

Coastal risk assessments rely on proper quantification of storm-induced erosion and flooding, and often involve calculations via numerical models. When the real time-series data of a storm are not available as forcing conditions and only bulk information is accessible, synthetic simplified time-evolutions are assumed. The most common approach in coastal studies uses a symmetric triangular storm shape

Beach scarps are nearly vertical seaward facing sandy cliffs within the cross-shore beach profile. These features are often associated with eroding (nourished) coastlines and can reach heights of O(2–3 m). An analysis of a six-year dataset of beach scarp presence at the nourished Sand Engine beach shows that the formation of beach scarps at the nourishment is linked to mildly erosive (summer storm)

Vegetation can change flow structure and turbulence characteristics. However, few studies have focused on combined wave–current flows in canopy with vertically varying density. Therefore, laboratory experiments were carried out to investigate hydrodynamics affected by submerged rigid vegetation with different densities (i.e. sparse, dense and vertically varying density) under waves, currents and combined

In a changing climate, sea level rise and projected regional–scale changes in storminess may increase the vulnerability of sandy coastlines to coastal erosion and flooding. As a result, there is increased interest in the development of adaptable, sustainable and effective coastal protection measures to protect these highly variable sandy coastlines. One such example is a dynamic cobble berm revetment;

The paper proposes a method of detection of erosion-prone, multiple bar beaches only based on recorded bathymetric profiles, without any (frequently missing) hydrodynamic information. For this purpose a 45 km long, pristine coastal segment of the Polish coast was analyzed; the bathymetric profiles there, spaced every 500 m, were measured in 2005 and 2011 from a dune/cliff crest up to a seabed depth