The wave time series that forces phase-resolving models is a source of model uncertainty that can propagate into wave runup predictions when the wave phase information is unknown. The effect of beach morphology on the propagation of this intrinsic uncertainty related to wave randomness (Ui) is largely unexplored. Here, we quantify the importance of uncertainty in wave runup at a dissipative (TS), intermediate

A man-made dune-beach-spit system at the south-east side of the island of Texel (Prins Hendrik site) has been built in 2018 to 2019 to strengthen the traditional dike. The core of the dune-beach-spit system consists of medium fine sand with a d50 of 0.25 to 0.3 mm. The beach is covered with an armour (protection) layer of coarse materials with relatively large gravel and shell fractions to reduce wind

A better understanding of how tidal-flat reclamation changes the flood hazard is critical for climate-proofing coastal flood defense design of heavily urbanized areas. Since the 1950s, large-scale reclamation has been performed along the Shanghai coast, China, to fulfill the land demands of city expansion. We now show that the loss of tidal flats may have resulted in harmful impacts of coastal storm

One of the main challenges facing decision-makers, particularly in highly modified transitional systems (i.e., coastal and inland waters, estuaries, river mouths, deltas, and coastal lagoons), is to determine whether current flood defenses will be sufficient throughout the 21st century. In case they are not, address the questions of where and when flood defenses will fail and how much. The methodology

Water-borne disaster debris can exacerbate the damage on the built-environment through debris impact and debris damming loads and by decreasing the functionality of infrastructure systems after these events. Therefore, an understanding of disaster debris transport is essential for disaster management. In this paper, an experimental study of tsunami-driven debris spreading over a flat testbed was conducted

The subgrid technique provides an efficient way to model coastal hydrodynamics using a relatively coarse grid, but incorporating small-scale geometrical details into the coarse grid model. A typical subgrid model based on the nonlinear shallow water equations applies a certain subgrid algorithm, which is based on either deterministic representation of the mass balance, or stochastically simplified

The paper presents a novel wave boundary model, namely Wavy Interface model, abbreviated as WI, for the particle methods by directly modelling the target wave fronts. In practical engineering problems, the information of the design waves as an input boundary is limited to only the wave heights and periods. To accommodate the situations, the proposed Wavy Interface model is designed to omit a usual

Numerical and physical modeling are the two main tools available for predicting the influence of water waves on coastal or offshore structures. Both models have their strengths and weaknesses. An integrated use of numerical and physical modeling which exploits their advantages can provide an optimal description of full-scale, realistic engineering problems. In this series of two papers, we report on

A new semi-empirical storm surge prediction (SESSP) method is presented that computes tropical cyclone induced storm surge levels as a function of space and time for various storm and geometry input parameters. It distinguishes between five components that contribute to the total surge: the normal, parallel, radial, Ekman, and inverse barometer surge. The parallel surge (caused by shore-parallel gradients

The lattice Boltzmann method (LBM) is a numerical method with high parallel computational efficiency. However, currently few 3D numerical wave model based on LBM can be widely applied to water wave simulations in coastal engineering due to several problems related to numerical instability and numerical accuracy. To develop a high-performance 3D LBM solver for water wave simulations with free surface

This paper provides the experimental validation of the generalized second-order three-dimensional (3D) coupling theory outlined by Yang et al. [Z. Yang, S. Liu, X. Ji, and H.B. Bingham, 2020. A generalized second-order 3D theory for coupling multidirectional nonlinear wave propagation from a numerical model to a physical model. Part I: Derivation, implementation and model verification, submitted for

Maintenance of navigation channels in shelf seas with tidal sand waves usually requires repeated dredging operations. Optimizing these interventions is a difficult task, particularly complicated by the nonlinear morphodynamics of sand wave recovery after dredging. Here we present a process-based model study, incorporating different strategies of dredging in an existing nonlinear sand wave model. We

This paper uses a novel approach to investigate the effect of wave-current interactions on the wave loads on a vertical surface piercing cylinder in representative current and wave conditions in the North Sea wind farms. We used an iterative method in the experiments to ensure the same nominal sea states at the location of the installed cylinder in different current conditions for each sea state. While

Accurate knowledge of the sediment budget of a coastal cell is necessary for coastal management and predicting long-term coastal change. An important component in the sediment budget of many wave-dominated embayed coastlines is the amount of sediment that bypasses rocky headlands, which present partial barriers to alongshore transport. As yet, there is no universal method for estimating bypass rates

Landslide-tsunamis are generated by masses, such as landslides or icebergs, impacting into water bodies. Such tsunamis resulted in major catastrophes in the recent past. Generic research into landslide-tsunamis has widely been conducted in idealised water body geometries at uniform water depths. However, varying bathymetries can significantly alter landslide-tsunamis. This article investigates this

In sandy environments, like the beach-dune system, buildings not only affect the airflow, but also the aeolian sediment transport in their surroundings. In this study, we determine how the horizontal size of sediment deposition patterns around buildings depends on the building’s dimensions. Four one-day experiments were conducted at the beach using box-shaped scale models. We tested 32 building geometries

This paper presents a machine learning approach for the automatic identification of rip currents with breaking waves. Rip currents are dangerous fast moving currents of water that result in many deaths by sweeping people out to sea. Most people do not know how to recognize rip currents in order to avoid them. Furthermore, efforts to forecast rip currents are hindered by lack of observations to help

The waves generated by hurricanes, together with storm surges, have led to severe damage and even failures in many coastal bridges in the Gulf of Mexico. Several studies have been conducted to investigate the effects of wave action on coastal bridges over the past 15 years. However, most of the existing research, both experimental and numerical, has used a regular or irregular wave as the incident

Coastal bridges serve as lifelines connecting affected areas to the outside world after extreme events such as tsunamis. It is thus important to predict tsunami loads applied to bridges vulnerable to tsunami attack. Most previous studies have focused on the horizontal force on bridges due to tsunamis. However, the overturning moments applied to bridges also contribute to the flexural failure of the

The use of surrogate modeling techniques for storm surge estimation is providing unique opportunities for coastal hazard analysis and risk assessment. Specifically, surrogate models can support a comprehensive estimation of the coastal hazard/risk utilizing ensembles with large number of storm simulations. A critical challenge in this assessment is the high-dimensionality of the output, which needs

A vertically discretized multi-paddle wavemaker is proposed that generates various wave types without the depth-invariant flow condition limitation associated with conventional piston type wavemakers. A first-order mathematical formulation for the paddle stroke is derived and used to selectively generate free surface waves similar to either piston type or flap type wavemakers, depending on the number

In a recent paper, Zhang et al. (2019) statistically analyzed the pile group effect of nine piles in a side-by-side arrangement exposed to multi-directional irregular waves. In this study, the corresponding data are further analyzed and their probabilistic distributions are examined. The Weibull distribution is used to fit the measured wave force, and the relationships between parameters A and B of

Wave-induced sediment transport is an important issue in coastal engineering. It is of fundamental significance to manifest the boundary layer behavior of nonlinear waves to accurately describe sediment transport in coastal areas, where wave forms are typically cnoidal or forward leaning rather than sinusoidal or symmetrical. In the present work, a novel expression of the near bed orbital velocity

The risk from erosion and flooding in the coastal zone has the potential to increase in a changing climate. The development and use of coupled hydro-morphodynamic models is therefore becoming an ever higher priority. However, their use as decision support tools suffers from the high degree of uncertainty associated with them, due to incomplete knowledge as well as natural variability in the system

Many subsea structures have non-uniform geometries, which extend only a finite distance above the seabed. To better understand local scour at these structures, this paper presents scour measurements from an experimental study of submerged compound piles comprised of a circular superstructure supported by a circular foundation. The experiments were conducted in the clear-water regime and considered

This paper aims at assessing the effectiveness of an oscillating water column device, generally conceived and studied as a wave energy converter, as an anti-reflective system to be integrated into vertical wall harbour structures. The wave-structure interaction is studied with simulations carried out in a numerical wave tank, implemented in the computational fluid dynamics environment OpenFOAM®. Reflected

For the first time, transient seismic-induced oscillations inside an actual harbor are investigated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type wave model. To this end, the open-source code FUNWAVE-TVD, developed by Shi et al. (2012), is extended to include seismic effects by adding a time-dependent forcing term to the governing equations. This extension is fully validated against analytical solutions

Since tsunamis pose a threat to many coastal areas, the mitigation of tsunami forces is important in saving lives and reducing damage when a tsunami comes. Barriers are generally constructed to protect coasts from extreme waves including tsunamis. Although extensive research has been conducted to investigate tsunami forces on coastal structures, the effectiveness of defensive structures such as barriers

Numerous efforts have been made to estimate the tsunami wave loads on structures, particularly box-shaped buildings (flat-roofed). As buildings have different types of roofs, insights into their respective wave flow mechanisms are important especially for the overtopping case. This study, therefore, focuses on the effect of roof types on tsunami-like waves impinging on a building. Through a series

The amount of wave overtopping at coastal structures such as vertical caisson breakwaters is strongly dependent on the angle of wave attack. The reducing effects of oblique waves on wave overtopping compared to perpendicular wave attack has been studied by means of three-dimensional wave basin tests. In these physical model tests the caisson breakwater has been exposed to wave conditions with wave

Toe design is an important task for coastal engineers as it ensures the stability of the main armor layer and prevents scour in front of the armor slope. Several laboratory experiments have been conducted to investigate the toe stability using different testing approaches, i.e. damage due to a single test condition and cumulative damage due to a number of conditions. In addition, the methods of measuring

Coastal vegetation such as seagrass fields, salt marshes, and mangroves, contributes to coastal defence by damping incoming waves. Yet, plant species differ in flexibility due to which they interact differently with incoming waves and damp waves to a variable degree. Current wave damping models struggle to balance accuracy against computational costs when accounting for wave-vegetation interactions

In this study we show that spectral and phase-resolving wave models, used for coastal engineering applications, can provide significant differences in the local wave heights and wave power magnitude in the presence of strong bottom-induced refraction. We present here methodologies to compare, in a consistent manner, model outputs to an alternative source of spatial data derived from Synthetic Aperture

This paper present numerical computations of solitary wave impact on a vertical wall. Different wave breaking cases were studied such as the high-aerated (air-pocket) or low-aerated (flip-through) in order to test the software ability to accurately reproduce the generated wall pressure loads. The numerical toolbox OpenFOAM was used here under the incompressible and compressible assumptions, together

The present study focuses on the effects of following and opposing steady currents on the interactions of a solitary wave with an array of macro-roughness elements, placed on a berm beach. A series of laboratory experiments and high-fidelity numerical simulations are conducted. The large eddy simulations are carried out using the open source computational fluid dynamics package, OpenFOAM. Wave breaking

In this work, we present several applications of the 2D-3D multi-domain couplings for Navier-Stokes models developed and validated in its companion (Di Paolo et al., submitted). The methodology is used to carry out some relevant simulations which include long regular and irregular waves, solitary wave propagation on a shallow foreshore, focused wave group transformation on a planar beach, wave impact

Tidal inlets are crucial landforms that control the exchange of water and sediment between the open sea and back-barrier basins. Despite the well-established relationship between tidal prism and inlet cross section area, some aspects of tidal inlet geometry remain unconstrained. What processes set their width to depth ratio (or aspect ratio)? What controls the presence of a single-thread versus a compound

Spurious harmonics generation can occur in wave basins when strongly nonlinear waves are generated with linear wave maker theory. For regular long crested waves, the phenomena is known to cause a beating pattern for the amplitude of the higher harmonics, while for irregular waves the effect is often thought to average out. We here report on recent experimental results for spurious harmonic generation

As sea level rises and development of the coastal zone continues, coastal flooding poses an increasing risk to coastal communities. Wave runup can contribute many meters to the vertical reach of the sea, especially on steep gravel beaches, and wave overtopping is a key contributor to coastal flooding along coastlines exposed to energetic wave conditions. However, operational forecasting of wave overtopping

Coastal structures are often designed to a maximum allowable wave overtopping discharge, hence accurate prediction of the amount of wave overtopping is an important issue. Both empirical formulae and neural networks are among the commonly used prediction tools. In this work, a new model for the prediction of mean wave overtopping discharge is presented using the innovative machine learning technique

Large tsunamis pose an immense threat to the inhabitants and infrastructure of coastal communities. The hazard related to coastal flooding events depends not only on the hydrodynamic loading itself, but also on the amount of debris entrained and displaced by the flood. To date, limited knowledge on the interaction of tsunami-induced inundation and free-floating solid objects has been developed. Thus

Sea level rise due to climate change, as well as social pressure to decrease the visual impact of coastal structures, have led to reduced crest freeboards, and this increases the overtopping hazard. In previous studies, pedestrian safety during overtopping events was assessed considering the overtopping layer thickness (OLT) and the overtopping flow velocity (OFV). This study analyzed the statistics

In order to investigate the rip current formed between the ends of breaking wave crests, a laboratory experiment was conducted over a bathymetry with an equilibrium profile. For the experiment, pseudo intersecting wave trains were produced in a wave basin, where regular waves were generated by running two parts of wave maker out of phase. The pseudo intersecting wave trains were compared with the intersecting

A large body of work has been devoted to the accurate detection and simulation of wave breaking in coastal areas. It is a key process for a wide range of engineering activities and environmental issues. This has motivated the development of a variety of breaking onset criteria, such as kinematic criteria based on a maximum value (usually unity) of the ratio uc/c, of the horizontal particle velocity

A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better result for the dispersion relation and shoaling of waves in intermediate

The erosion of marine sediments, although difficult to predict, can lead to important implications in offshore engineering, sedimentology and coastal management. Continued research is, therefore, warranted to compile high-quality erosion data from which to develop models to better predict the erosion resistance of different types of marine sediments. In this paper, dimensional analysis is performed

Landslide tsunamis and impulse waves are hazardous events with severe socioeconomic impacts. A long standing problem with simulations of these events is the generation stage, where landslides and water interact. Depth-averaged models like the Saint-Venant or Boussinesq Equations lose their validity for such applications. Therefore, we have to rely on a full treatment of the hydrodynamics, for instance

Laboratory wave flume experiments in coastal engineering and physical oceanography are widely used to provide an improved understanding of morphodynamic processes. Wave flume facilities around the world vary greatly in their physical dimensions and differences in the resulting distortion of the modelled processes are reconciled using scaling laws. However, it is known that perfect model-prototype scaling

SFINCS, a new reduced-physics solver to compute compound flooding in coastal systems due to fluvial, pluvial, tidal, wind- and wave-driven processes in a computationally efficient way, is presented and validated for a number of verification and application cases. The model solves simplified equations of mass and momentum, which are driven by storm surge and wave boundary conditions, precipitation rates

In this paper, an extended numerical analysis of the “confined-crest impact” (hereinafter referred as “C–CI”), induced by non-breaking waves on recurved parapet walls, is presented to better understand the physics and characteristics of this impulsive wave phenomenon, which significantly depends on the geometry of the parapet (here made by a sector of circumference) as well as on non-breaking wave

Small-amplitude water waves passing through a suspended canopy is studied. The area of suspended canopy is modeled by an array of vertical rigid cylinders with periodic spacing. Assuming that the diameter of cylinders and their spacing are much smaller than the typical incident wavelength, the homogenization theory (method of multiple-scale perturbation) is applied to create coupled micro-scale (cylinder

Wave environment equivalent to the full-scale nearshore storm was generated in a large wave flume, and the flow within wave boundary layer was measured using an acoustic Vectrino profiler. Analysis were made on various factors including the velocity profile, phase lead, boundary layer thickness, steady streaming, turbulence as well as bottom shear stress, and comparisons were made with existing studies

Wave overtopping is a key process in coastal protection and its assessment defines the design of the sea defence structures. An existing knowledge gap in wave overtopping prediction is identified for steep low-crested structures, i.e., structures with steep slopes up to the limit case of vertical structures, with small relative freeboards down to the limit case of zero freeboards. This type of structure

A two-dimensional numerical model was used to study the wave overtopping performance above perforated caisson breakwaters under regular waves. The turbulent flow was simulated by solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the k–ε turbulence model equations. In the numerical wave flume, the free surface was tracked by the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method, and a relaxation zone was

This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The experiments were performed using monochromatic waves and a linearly sloping bed. The results show that offshore wind conditions delay wave breaking and promote steep breakers, while onshore wind conditions extend the surf zone

The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically able to simulate the dominant low-frequency swash, previous

Tidal sand waves are large-scale bed forms found in shallow sandy seas, which show a migration of several meters per year. Field data from the Dutch part of the North Sea revealed a migration pattern causing bidirectional migration of sand waves over a sand bank, resulting in sand wave migration uphill from both sides of the sand bank. In order to understand the physical mechanisms behind this migration

Runup on a slender cylindrical column exposed to long, steep waves, at finite and great depth is quantified by high speed camera technique in wave channel. Ratio between water depth (h) and cylinder diameter (D) is h/D=10,4.16,2.5. Breaking and non-breaking wave events are made by focusing technique. The trough-to-trough period (TTT), crest height (η0.m), frequency (ω=2π/TTT) and reference speed (g/ω)

The rotation of beaches is important and should be more pronounced under high energy conditions with significant changes in wave direction. Shoreline rotation occurs when one end of a beach accretes, while the opposite retreats. This phenomenon is attributed to periodic or long-term changes in wave climate. To simulate the variability of the shoreline orientation in a simple and efficient way, the

This paper and its companion (Di Paolo et al. (b), submitted) present near-far field coupling schemes of Navier-Stokes (NS) equations for high-fidelity numerical modelling of wave generation, transformation and interaction with structures. The computational domain is subdivided into near and far field zones (2D and 3D subdomains, respectively) in which the NS equations are solved adopting the Finite