Forecasting coastal infragravity (IG) waves is crucial in preventing coastal disasters caused by IG waves. In this study, the performance of the unstructured WAVEWATCH Ⅲ (WW3) in predicting coastal IG waves is comparatively assessed using in-situ wave measurements, considering the effects of numerical schemes, time steps, and IG-source parameterization methods. The wave measurements are performed using

Two approaches are proposed to simulate tsunamis generated by granular landslides: a depth-averaged model, AVALANCHE, and laminar Navier–Stokes simulations using the OpenFOAM model. Both models are validated against two 2D benchmarks, a subaerial and a submerged one involving a triangle initial slide shape. In both models, the landslide is defined as a viscous fluid flowing downslope. Except in the

Collapse of cavities formed by internal erosion has occurred at the back sides of seawalls and quaywalls all over the world. Here, the process of internal erosion was investigated by conducting prototype-scale experiments. A series of processes of cavity formation and collapse were reproduced considering different grain size distributions and water level conditions. Suction, that is, negative pore

Although easily discernible by the naked eye, a robust and consistent methodology to identify the spatio-temporal occurrence of wave breaking in the nearshore on a wave-by-wave basis has been elusive to date. In this work, a Convolutional Neural Network (U-Net) is trained and its performance evaluated using a large number of images in the electro-optical range, and its performance is compared against

Excessive nonphysical energy dissipation is a problem in Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) when modeling free surface waves, resulting in a significant decrease in wave amplitude within a few wavelengths for progressive waves. This dissipation poses a limitation to the physical scale of SPH applications involving water wave propagation. Some prior solutions to this wave decay problem rely on elaborate

This study presents the new advances achieved in the field of harbour agitation climate assessment. Based on the improvement of an elliptic mild-slope model (MSP), which realistically reconstructs waves inside any-sized basin, represented by high-detailed unstructured meshes, and forced by real-shaped outer spectral data. A new solver is proposed for high performance runs, which allow fast agitation

The main aim of the present work is to provide an experimental and numerical seabed pressure dataset beneath rubble mound breakwaters with submerged berms. The estimation of the seabed pressure variation under a breakwater with a berm, useful for designing such a kind of marine structure, needs to take into account the interaction of the structure with the waves and the soil. A parametric experimental

The recent record-breaking Laurentian Great Lakes water levels have led to severe erosion along many shorelines, but quantification of this erosion has not yet been widely reported. In this paper, novel shoreline measurements of Lake Michigan erosion, using a LiDAR-equipped unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV). The vehicle surveyed two beaches, Dune Acres and Beverly Shores, along the Indiana shoreline of

This paper establishes a computationally efficient model to predict flood gate vibrations due to wave impacts including fluid–structure interaction. In contrast to earlier models, composite fluid domains are included to represent the situation of a flood gate in a dewatering sluice with the presence of an overhang that causes the confined-wave impacts. The dynamic response of the gate-fluid system

We study the temporal distribution of wave energy in a wave field that is generated by the reflection of a wave spectrum from a vertical wall. Weakly nonlinear wave fields over finite, constant depth are considered, and the reflection induces large correlations between different wave components of the wave field. The nonlinear time evolution of such an inhomogeneous random wave field is studied by

Reliable and long-term hindcast data of water levels are essential in quantifying return period and values of extreme water levels. In order to inform design decisions on a local flood control district level, process-based numerical modeling has proven an essential tool to provide the needed temporal and spatial coverage for different extreme value analysis methods. To determine the importance of different

Depth of closure (DOC) is a commonly-used parameterization of the seaward limit in significant elevation change along a beach profile. Engineers, scientists, and resource managers use this parameter to make decisions and formulate designs for activities ranging from ecological restorations to beach nourishment and harbor construction. We present empirically measured DOC values from eight sites along

A large, low pressure Nor’easter storm and Hurricane Joaquin contributed to multiple weeks of sustained, elevated wave and water level conditions along the southeastern Atlantic coast of the United States in Fall 2015. Sea level anomalies in excess of 1 m and offshore wave heights of up to 4 m were recorded during these storms, as observed at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Field Research Facility

Beach profile data sets provide valuable insight into the morphological evolution of sandy shorelines. However, beach monitoring schemes often show large variability in temporal and spatial intervals between beach profiles. Moreover, beach profiles are often incomplete (i.e. only a part of the profile is measured) and data gaps are unavoidable. The resulting irregular sets of beach profiles complicate

Beaches are dynamic systems characterized by frequent morphological changes due to storm events, gradients in longshore sediment transport, seasonal variations in wave climate and more. The complexity of variations in beach morphology can increase significantly after a beach nourishment, particularly when coastal structures are involved. This study investigates the impacts of a groin field, consisting

A new nonlinear frequency-domain model based on the mild-slope equation is outlined. The model is an enhancement over previous work in that a closer correspondence between scaling of nonlinearity and horizontal variation of bathymetry is made relative to earlier models. This results in additional terms in the nonlinear summation terms of the model, as amplitude gradient terms are required in order

This paper presents three dimensional (3D) numerical modeling of local scour around a single pile under the combined action of waves and currents. A semi-coupled hydrodynamic and morphological model (REEF3D) is used in this study which solves the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equation with k-ω turbulence model closure. The Exner equation is used to calculate the changes in bed elevation. The

Periodic undulating topographies (such as sandwaves and sandbars) are very common in coastal and estuarine areas. Normally incident water surface waves propagating from open sea to coastal areas may interact strongly with such topographies. The wave reflection by the periodic undulating topography can be significantly amplified when the surface wavelength is approximately twice the wavelength of the

Intensified activities of tropical cyclones in the Western North Pacific have imposed increasing threats to coastal cities in the context of global climate change. A storm surge superimposed with astronomical high tide, i.e., a storm-tide event, often causes severe flooding in many coastal cities in South China Sea (SCS) region. Meanwhile, the potential tsunami hazard associated with the megathrust

Coastal storms cause widespread damage to property, infrastructure, economic activity, and the environment. Along open sandy coastlines, two of the primary coastal storm hazards are coastal flooding by elevated ocean water levels and beach erosion as the result of storm wave action. At continental margins characterized by a shallow, wide continental shelf, coastal storms are more commonly associated

The Miles’ theory of wave amplification by wind is extended to the case of finite depth h and a shear flow with (constant) vorticity Ω. Vorticity is characterised through the non-dimensional parameter ν=ΩU1/g, where g the gravitational acceleration, U1 a characteristic wind velocity. The notion of ’wave age’ is generalised to account for the effect of vorticity. Several widely used growth rates are

A method to compute the second-order free surface elevation, depth integrated force and mud line moment for a slender circular vertical cylinder is presented. The method is valid for unidirectional irregular waves and includes inertia loads and viscous loads. We first derive the linear transfer functions for free surface elevation, depth-integrated force and moment from the complex Fourier amplitudes

This paper addresses the role of the phase difference between the peak discharge and the tidal level on the development of nearshore bars at river mouths during extreme river discharge events. We use a coupled hydrodynamic and morphodynamic numerical model (Delft3D) to reproduce extreme river discharge events on an idealized river mouth debouching on a nearshore shelf, characterized by a concave cross-shore

In this work, a new numerical model for cross-shore beach profile evolution, IH2VOF-SED, is developed. It consists in the bidirectional coupling of a 2D RANS hydrodynamic solver and a sediment transport module. The resulting model is extensively validated against three benchmark cases at different scales, attending to the hydrodynamics, bottom shear stress and bathymetry evolution. Comparisons between

An experimental study is presented consisting of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux estimates, and bed changes under a single dam-break-driven swash event over a steep (1:7), movable sand bed. The study provides resolved measurements of instantaneous water depths, cross-shore flow velocities, sheet flow and suspended sediment concentrations, and morphological response. An ensemble-averaging

Here, a methodology to obtain ensemble shoreline change projections at regional scale by combining multi-model projections of wave climate and water levels and the reduced-complexity shoreline evolution model in Alvarez-Cuesta et al. (2021) is presented. In order to account for climate change uncertainty, dynamically downscaled and bias corrected projected waves and storm surge series from five different

The importance of wave reflection on nearshore hydrodynamics has recently been acknowledged by an increasing number of studies, yet it is difficult to simulate by the conventional parametric wave transformation models widely used in coastal engineering practice. Here, we propose a simple and efficient semi-empirical method to deal with this issue. The proposed method considers wave reflections resulted

Harbour resonance and its contribution to wave overtopping are examined for a small irregular-shaped harbour in the eastern Mediterranean. Offshore wave measurements are used to determine the incident wave conditions during storm events. Resonant periods of the harbour basin are identified through in situ measurements at four different deployment locations during multiple storm events. Numerical simulations

Low-frequency waves with infragravity and very-low-frequency bands have been found to induce coastal flooding and erosion on low-lying reef islands under storm conditions. The aim of this study is to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency waves around an atoll reef island in the South China Sea, Dongsha Island, during a large typhoon event. A Boussinesq-type wave model, FUNWAVE-TVD, is applied to

Coastal stakeholders, engineers, and scientists have long sought a simplified and practical model to predict shoreline change along sandy coastlines; this model could be applied for several purposes, such as public safety, natural environment conservation and coastal management. This study focuses on embayed beaches, which are physiographic units where the incident hydrodynamic conditions determine

There is a consensus that future sea-level rise (SLR) will increase the exposure of population and assets to coastal flooding. However, the extent to which SLR affects flood hazards and human vulnerability to flooding in the built environment is not well understood. This study investigates the effects of future SLR on coastal flood hazards and human vulnerability to flooding in New York City's built

Perforated multichamber caisson breakwaters are widely used for deep water harbour protection from waves, causing a partial dissipation of wave energy, hence reducing wave reflection. The innovative patented geometry presented in this paper, the ARPEC, is an Anti Reflection PErmeable Caisson breakwater that allows a significant wave energy dissipation and a hydraulic connection between the sea side

The present paper deals with separation of long-crested regular waves into incident and reflected components. Such methods have been available for several decades for linear waves, but has recently been extended to cover nonlinear waves over horizontal foreshores. The overall goal of the present paper is to extend the separation method for nonlinear regular waves to cover also sloping foreshores. This

Although seagrass canopies are known to enhance particle sedimentation, there is still limited knowledge about how seagrasses modify the vertical distribution of sediment particles; especially when particles come from allochthonous sources. This study determined the volume of particles trapped by the seagrass leaves, the amount that remains in suspension both within and above the canopy, and the amount

Predicting the runup heights from the offshore waves and beach characteristics has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering. Various parameters are considered potential contributing factors, but some of them have not been verified in the field. This study discusses the characteristics of infragravity (IG) swash and its relationship with the offshore wave parameters by analyzing

Mapping bathymetric change is a core task for a wide range of navigation, research, monitoring, and design applications. Satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) can support this activity, particularly when using data from a platform, like the Sentinel-2A/B twin mission of the Copernicus programme, which provides routine and repetitive image acquisition at 10 m spatial resolution. As a result, SDB can expand

A series of physical model experiments of tsunami inundation over an idealized industrial site located in a coastal area were performed in this study. Two types of tsunami-like waves with markedly different characteristics were generated. The first was a single long wave and the second was a long wave with soliton fission (undular bore). This study measured the water surface elevation and velocity

A physical model study was performed to examine the forces and response of 1:6 scale wood-frame coastal residential structures subjected to storm surge and waves. An on-grade and an elevated specimen were tested and exposed to regular waves with varying water depths and wave heights to simulate typical wave/surge conditions resulting from landfall hurricanes on low-lying barrier islands such as Hurricane

Atlantic tropical cyclones (TCs) affect the United States every year, and depending on their intensity, can cause coastal storm surge and inland inundation, leading to substantial damages in the east coast. Accurate TC risk assessment, however, is not easily quantified given the limited spatial and temporal historical records. This paper describes the development of a model framework for TC forecasts

Effects of the improved seaward boundary condition on the swash zone hydrodynamics with bottom resistance are investigated using the method of characteristics. The characteristic equations including the Chezy-type resistance term are solved numerically by using the specified time interval scheme. Following Guard and Baldock (2007), the improved seaward boundary condition is introduced after incorporating

This study presents IH-LANS (Long-term ANthropized coastlines Simulation tool), a numerical model for addressing long-term coastline evolution at local to regional scales in highly anthropized coasts. In IH-LANS, a hybrid (statistical-numerical) deep-water propagation module and a data-assimilated shoreline evolution model are coupled. Longshore and cross-shore processes are integrated together with

Automatic calibration of numerical models and systematic quantification of the uncertainties associated with their use is not yet a widespread practice in coastal engineering. This paper proposes the use of a Bayesian algorithm for the automatic calibration and uncertainty quantification of a wave model, in the framework of the dynamical downscaling of off-shore waves to a nearshore project site, where

Landslides, rockfalls, and iceberg calving impacting into a water body generate large landslide-tsunamis posing a serious hazard in lakes and reservoirs. These waves can impact and even overtop dams as in the 1963 Vajont disaster in Italy. However, estimating the effects of tsunamis on dams, e.g. pressures and forces, and 3D effects is challenging. An accurate prediction of these effects is also important

Velocities are measured using LDA within the bottom boundary layer for 10 oscillatory flow tunnel experiments involving regular and amplitude modulated oscillatory flows over a gravel-rough bed and a sand-rough bed. Corresponding regular and modulated flows were equivalent in terms of rms velocity, oscillatory flow period, skewness and asymmetry. The experimental results are compared with predictions

Here, a methodology to obtain ensemble shoreline change projections at regional scale by combining multi-model projections of wave climate and water levels and the reduced-complexity shoreline evolution model in Alvarez-Cuesta et al. (2021) is presented. In order to account for climate change uncertainty, dynamically downscaled and bias corrected projected waves and storm surge series from five different

The last IPCC report highlights that, along the present century, sea level rise driven by climate change will exacerbate the flooding frequency in coastal areas. Among others, the Venice Lagoon is one of the most vulnerable because of the presence of worldly famous historical urban settlements. To face this, a mobile flap gate system (Mo.S.E.) is nearly completed and has already raised across the lagoon

Many kelp aquaculture farms consist of moored arrays of long horizontal lines that grow kelp near the water surface. Most kelp farms are deployed in the same direction of wave propagation. However, with numerous longlines of densely grown kelp, these farms may have the potential to attenuate waves if installed perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation. In this application, the kelp farm may

The local sediment motion around cylindrical structures laid on erodible seabed occurs with wave and/or current effects and causes significant stability problems. In this study, the development of the scour hole along the spanwise direction of the pipeline and the scour propagation velocity were investigated experimentally. The time dependent measurements beneath the test pipe were performed in a large

The introduction of crown walls with parapets on top of dikes and berms represents a relatively economic and efficient solution to reduce the wave overtopping discharge and therefore the hazard exposure of the inshore areas. However, the inclusion of parapets and bullnoses leads to increased wave pressures on the crown walls that may compromise their resistance. Literature studies have so far addressed

Wave breaking is one of the main forcing mechanisms in coastal hydrodynamics, driving mean water levels and currents. Its accurate representation and modeling is therefore essential to develop a thorough understanding and predictive capabilities. In this work, the performance of a 1D Boussinesq Type Model is assessed by expanding the traditional approach of calibrating the models against profiles and

Standing longwave formations are investigated in the presence of a broad submerged sill off the vertical reflective wall: this configuration represents a model of reef-lagoon formations often present in coral-reef coasts. A series of laboratory and numerical experiments are performed for the waves of which wavelengths are comparable to the bathymetry length scale. The results reveal that the wave amplitude

Destruction of the structures in coastal areas due to an extreme coastal event like a tsunami necessitates the deeper understanding of flow behaviour to improve the design guidelines. The characteristics of inland propagating tsunami surge or bore consist of an initial aerated surge or bore tip followed by the gradual increase in water depth (quasi-steady flow phase). During the bore interaction, the

Although mangroves reduce the daily risk of flood for millions of people, it is still difficult to estimate the protection they provide for variable wave conditions and forest characteristics. This aspect is crucial for the promotion of conservation and restoration of mangrove forests and for the estimation of how the coastal protection service they provide will evolve over time. This paper presents

This paper presents a new theoretical framework, based on the homogenization theory, for studying small-amplitude periodic water waves through emergent flexible vegetation in water of intermediate depth. The vegetation is modeled by an array of flexible cantilever-type cylinders with uniform properties. It is assumed that the cylinders oscillate with small amplitude in the stream-wise direction at

The interactions of random waves with a cluster of structures positioned in a gridded array are investigated through a series of experiments and high-fidelity RANS and LES simulations. The performances of two different turbulence models, k−ω SST and LES, are evaluated in terms of the predicted flow field and resulting loading on the structures, both in the time and frequency domains. The comparative

The design load from waves on offshore structures are often estimated by aid of experimental studies in wave flumes and basins. When going from open sea to laboratorial conditions a number of factors are either added or omitted such as wind above waves. The paddle-generated waves are based on a spectrum taking the indirect effect of wind into account, whereas the direct effect of wind is left out.

The present paper is the second of two companion papers on the investigations of wave overtopping flow striking a cylinder, which is the schematisation of a human body, on the crest of an impermeable sloped seawall with a deep foreshore. This paper numerically examines the detailed characteristics of the overtopping flow and the force on the cylinder in-line with the flow direction by using a volume-of-fluid

Homogeneous low-crested structures (HLCSs) on hard seabed are designed to protect beaches and regenerate coral reefs. The height of a HLCS depends on the placement grid which determines the crest freeboard, wave transmission and concrete consumption. In real seafloor conditions, it is not easy to define feasible placement grids for HLCSs on uneven sea bottoms. In this study, the parameters of the numerical