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Consumer Versus Corporate Moral Responsibilities for Creating a Circular Fashion: Virtue or Accountability? Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2021-01-08 Chung-Wha (Chloe) Ki; Jung E Ha-Brookshire
Scholars in the fashion discipline have become more attentive to investigating how the fashion business can become more circular. In the past, many of the studies focused on identifying the supporting and/or hindering factors when creating a circular fashion (CF). Despite the insights these studies provide, their contributions are relatively limited in that many of them are exploratory in nature and
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Embedding 3D Printed Filaments with Knitted Textiles: Investigation of Bonding Parameters Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-12-23 Gozde Goncu-Berk; Burak Karacan; Ilke Balkis
The advancements in additive manufacturing technology and new materials paved the way for 3D printed textile-like structures. However, achieving the comfort and fit of traditional textiles and joining of the 3D printed segments have been challenging. Embedding 3D printed polymers with textiles using fused deposition modeling offers possibilities for innovative hybrid structures and end-products without
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Swagger Like Us: Black Millennials’ Perceptions, Knowledge, and Influence of 1980s and 1990s Urban Fashion Brands Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-12-03 Courtney Johnson; Kelly L. Reddy-Best; Eulanda A. Sanders
In New York City in the late 1970s, the Black community created hip-hop, a significant cultural phenomenon, which has since spread around the world. Our research is centered on the revolutionary hip-hop fashion movement in Black history as it relates to Black millennials’ experiences of fashioning their bodies. We examine the perception of Black millennials who are attending or have attended historically
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Aesthetic Identity Development Among Trans Adolescents and Young Adults Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-12-02 Jenifer K. McGuire; Andrew Reilly
Dress is used by transgender and nonbinary (TNB) individuals as a way to develop and maintain identity, whether to reinforce a binary gender code or disrupt social expectations. However, safety issues of living in a society where TNB persons are discriminated against, harassed, and assaulted, and where binary gender violations are met with resistance, creates tension between expression of authentic
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Smart Wireless Charging Heating Insoles: Improving Body Thermal Comfort of Young Males in an Extremely Cold Environment Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-11-24 Zihao Chen; Jialin Li; Wenfang Song; Yehu Lu; Bifei Cao
Currently, no study was retrieved for scientifically design heating insoles and evaluating their actual effectiveness in improving body thermal comfort of occupational workers in extremely cold environments. To fill this gap, novel smart wireless charging heating insoles (SWHI) were developed, consisting of electrically heating pads targeted at the toe and heel regions. Seven young males were asked
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Clothing Taskscape as an Approach Toward Assessment of User Needs Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-11-06 Sandra Tullio-Pow; Megan Strickfaden
This study highlights use of the clothing taskscape (CT) to assess user needs, characterize design problems, and develop design criteria by considering relationships across people, their clothing, environments, activities, and tasks. Two case studies—a liquor store uniform and outdoor winter sporting clothing for seated clients—are used to illustrate how the CT may be operationalized. Data collection
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Green With Fear: Fear Appeals and Temporal Framing in Eco-Friendly Clothing Advertising Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-11-06 Bin Shen; Yana Kim
This study examines how fear appeals (moderate vs. high) and temporal frames (proximal vs. distal) interactively influenced consumers' attitude and purchase intention in the framework of eco-friendly clothing advertising in China. For that purpose, empirical analyses were performed by collecting data from 640 consumers across Mainland China. Results revealed that consumers who perceived eco-friendly
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Effect of Elastane Parameters on the Dimensional and Mechanical Properties of Stretchable Denim Fabrics Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-11-03 Muhammad Bilal Qadir; Zulfiqar Ali; Ali Afzal; Muhammad Irfan; Tanveer Hussain; Mumtaz Hassan Malik; Muhammad Waqas Iqbal; Amir Shahzad; Adnan Ahmad; Zubair Khaliq
Denim is one of the most popular casual apparel all over the globe due to a variety of available looks, comfort, and convenience. Comfort and performance properties of stretched denim fabrics depend on the elastane content, which can be controlled through the linear density of elastane and draft-ratio in the core of the cotton yarn. Optimization of both of linear density and draft-ratio of elastane
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Negotiations of Women’s Black and Activist Identity Through Dress on the College Campus, 2013–2019 Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-10-30 Dyese L. Matthews; Kelly L. Reddy-Best
Black people, especially Black women, have used dress to reject racism and discrimination and as a means for negotiating their Black and activist identities. Building on past work, we examine how Black women use dress as an embodied practice to negotiate both their Black and activist identities. We focus on a particular space and time: campus life at predominantly White institutions during the Black
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Knitting With and for Others: Repercussions on Motivation Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-10-28 Judit Rusiñol-Rodriguez; Maria Rodriguez-Bailon; Anna Ramon-Aribau; Marcel·la Torra Torra; Pedro Moruno Miralles
Knitting is an activity that generates well-being and that can be undertaken in a group. It is characterized by the creation of a final piece, which may have different purposes. The aims of this study were to explore the effects of knitting in a natural group, as well as examining the impact that the purpose of the piece created might have on the motivation to knit. A mixed methodology was used with
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Measuring Perceived Benefits and Costs of New Technology Adoption in the Chinese Textile and Apparel Industry Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-10-28 Baolu Wang; Jung E. Ha-Brookshire; Wesley Bonifay
The textile and apparel industry have been fundamentally changed due to technology development. However, developing countries, such as China, are falling behind for adopting new technologies. The literature suggests firm managers’ perceived benefits and costs of new technology are key variables for their motivation to adopt new technology. However, no reliable and valid scales existed to measure these
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A Body to Die for: Body Measurements and BMI Values Among Female and Male Runway Models Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-10-23 Iva Jestratijevic; Nancy A. Rudd; Sanja Ilic
Runway models play a central role in creating and promoting cultural beauty and body ideals. However, little is known about body measurements (BMs) and anthropometric health parameters among this modeling population. The main purpose of this quantitative study is to describe BMs and anthropometric health parameters to understand the severity of thinness among models. Secondary industry-reported data
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Editors’ Notes: Advancing Design Scholarship in Textiles and Apparel Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-23 Sherry Haar; Elizabeth Bye
The past 20 years have seen growth in exposure and academic outlets for design scholarship through new journals, special topics sessions and conferences, and PhD programs. Yet, there is a lack of strong published examples of design scholarship in textiles and apparel as designer scholars and administrators still struggle to understand how to conduct, document, and evaluate design scholarship. This
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Factors Influencing Consumers’ Intention to Adopt Fashion Robot Advisors: Psychological Network Analysis Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-21 So Young Song; Youn-Kyung Kim
Drawing upon the theory of human–robot interaction (HRI), this study examined the relations among perceived characteristics of fashion robot advisors (FRAs), consumers’ negative preconceptions toward robots, and positive dispositions toward technology to identify network differences in adoption and nonadoption groups. For interviews, pretests, and main data collection, we presented video clips of FRAs
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Multiscale Finite Element Modeling of the Viscoelastic Behavior of Sportswear Under Periodic Load Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-14 Ali Sajjadi; Seyed Abdolkarim Hosseini; Saeed Ajeli; Mohammad Mashayekhi
The aim of this study was to investigate the influence of different stitch factors on the mechanical behavior of the seam section of sportswear under periodic load. Multiscale finite element (FE) modeling was then utilized to predict the mechanical behavior of the samples under periodic tensile load. The unit cells of the fabric and the stitched section were modeled in the mesoscale. Elastic and viscoelastic
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Age and Gender Differences in the Relationship Between Actual and Perceived Body Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-10 Jooyeon Lee; Yun-Ja Nam; Jinhee Park
We analyzed the relationship between actual and perceived body, the effect of body shape on this relationship, and age and gender differences within it. Descriptive statistics were analyzed using body measurement data of 6,172 Koreans aged 15–69 years, in addition to a survey about perceived body types. We determined the body perception type according to the congruence between perceived and actual
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Exploring Effects of Self-Evaluative and Motivational Schema in Appearance on Advertising Effectiveness in Fashion Ads Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-09 Ui-Jeen Yu
Thin-idealized models are mainly promoted in fashion ads, supporting “thinness sells.” Based on the self-schema theory, this study investigated how self-evaluative and motivational schema in appearance influenced attitudes toward brand advertising thin models and purchase intention. A web-based survey consisting of three different model stimuli—thin, average-sized, and no models—in fashion ads was
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Skills and Knowledge for Merchandising Professionals: The Case of the South African Apparel Retail Industry Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-08 Bertha Jacobs; Elena Karpova
This study explored skills and knowledge required for merchandising professionals to fulfill their roles and perform their responsibilities in the South African apparel retail industry. The apparel merchandising competency (AMC) framework was used as a theoretical foundation in this research. A phenomenological approach was followed to explore the perspective of professionals employed by South African
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The Exploration of the Modular System in Textile and Apparel Design Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-08 Chanjuan Chen; Kendra Lapolla
The aim of this design research is to explore modular shapes and interlocking systems for apparel design using research through practice approach. As a transformable design approach, modular design features small standardized units that can be independently combined in various configurations to create different forms and provide multiple functions. However, there has been little hands-on integration
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Investigation of the Thermal Protective Performance of Shape Memory Fabric System: Effect of Moisture and Position of Shape Memory Alloy Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-08 Yehu Lu; Lijun Wang; Jiazhen He; Pengjun Xu; Wenfang Song
A prototype of temperature-responsive protective fabric assembly with shape memory alloy (SMA) spring was developed. The effect of moisture on the thermal protective performance of fabric was investigated under radiant heat exposure and hot surface contact. The thermal liner of fabric system was pretreated with moisture amount of 25%, 50%, and 100%. Meanwhile, the thermal protection of fabric assembly
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Measurement of Aluminum and Chemical Oxygen Demand in the Effluent of Mordanted Cotton Against Environmental Regulations Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-07-08 Sherry Haar; Kowshik Saha; Sarif Patwary; Tuyen Duong Thanh Nguyen; Santosh Aryal
Despite toxicity concerns of chemical mordants used in natural dyeing, there is limited research on the measurement, quality, and safe disposal of the chemical mordant effluent. This study measured the aluminum ions across the premordanting process of cotton print cloth using inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry and calculated the oxidizable organic matter in the effluent through chemical oxygen
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Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-06-30 Linda Welters; Abby Lillethun
The introduction to the focused issue draws attention to research in the history of textiles and fashion among International Textile and Apparel Association members. It is divided into three parts: the past, the present, and the future. In the first section, a review of the history of dress and textiles under the umbrella of “clothing and textiles” is provided. In the section on the present, a snapshot
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Machine Learning (ML) for Tracking Fashion Trends: Documenting the Frequency of the Baseball Cap on Social Media and the Runway Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-06-18 Rachel Rose Getman; Denise Nicole Green; Kavita Bala; Utkarsh Mall; Nehal Rawat; Sonia Appasamy; Bharath Hariharan
With the proliferation of digital photographs and the increasing digitization of historical imagery, fashion studies scholars must consider new methods for interpreting large data sets. Computational methods to analyze visual forms of big data have been underway in the field of computer science through computer vision, where computers are trained to “read” images through a process called machine learning
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Fashioned Bodies in Roller Derby League Logos: Critical Analysis of Race, Gender, Body Size and Position, Clothing, and Aesthetics Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-06-17 Kelly L. Reddy-Best; Denise Nicole Green; Kelsie Doty
Revival of roller derby in the early 2000s garnered significant interest in the sport, and an extensive network of leagues began to form. By 2018, approximately 1,500 leagues were operating in North America, each with a unique logo. In this study, we focus on the league logos as a potent form of embodied fashion representation. Using content analysis, we examined all of the logos for U.S. Women’s Flat
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Song Brocade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-06-17 Kun Chen; Dan Lu; Zimin Jin; Miao Su; Jing Jin
Song brocade is Chinese traditional brocade that originated in the Song dynasty but flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Its delicate patterns, graceful colors, and exquisite techniques show the unique craftsmanship of ancient China. The fabric structure, pattern, and weaving technique had changed greatly because of the social environment, cultural customs, and other factors during the Ming and
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Millennials’ Intention to Use Self-Checkout Technology in Different Fashion Retail Formats: Perceived Benefits and Risks Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-05-19 Hanna Lee; Karen K. Leonas
With an increase in automation, fashion retailers started to offer a self-checkout option in their stores to meet diverse consumers’ demand. Self-checkout technology has great potential to enhance the shopping experience of millennials, who increasingly dominate the market with increasing buying power, placing convenience as their top priority in the shopping process. However, despite the potential
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Muslim Women’s Purchasing Behaviors Toward Modest Activewear in the United States Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-05-18 Chanmi Hwang; Tae Ho Kim
This study examines Muslim women’s purchasing behaviors toward modest activewear in the United States and tests the underlying mechanism of intent to purchase activewear, based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). A sample of veiled Muslim women (N = 328) participated in this study. Results from structural equation modeling revealed that perceived aesthetic attributes and compatibility with regard
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Sexy-Clothing Behavior of High School Girls: Sexual Self-Congruity and Parental and Popular Girls’ Influences Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-05-11 Jessie H. Chen-Yu; Anne Dillard Elkins; Marjorie J. T. Norton
The present study focused on the sexy-clothing behavior of high school girls. Specifically, we examined whether high school girls wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts and whether parents and popular girls influence those behaviors. The results, obtained by applying structural equation modeling to analyze the data collected from
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Apparel Design Scholarship Practices: Analysis of ITAA Professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings From 1999 to 2017 Cloth. Text. Res. J. (IF 1.1) Pub Date : 2020-04-29 Young-A Lee; Seoha Min; Sumin Helen Koo
We explored the topical trends of the International Textile and Apparel Association professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings (DAP) and how apparel design scholarship has been cited in the discipline for the past two decades. Using a content analysis, three research objectives were as follows: to examine (a) designer-identified keywords trends of the DAP, (b) to examine DAP directly cited in scholarly