(2021). Editorial. Fashion Practice: Vol. 13, Fashion and Aging, pp. 1-6.

Abstract Vital Involvement (VI) in older adulthood is a construct that underlies multiple aspects of elder well-being, engagement, activity, and psychosocial health. Designers’ term “active aging” fits well within this construct, and it offers a social-science and developmental scaffolding on which to “hang”/“pin” many elements of designing (e.g., clothing, accessories, objects, spaces, and social

Abstract Women in the United States are often subjected to unrealistic standards of ideal appearance. These ideals are even more extreme in the fashion industry. Because professional women who hold creative positions in the fashion industry are in the business of creating style and beauty, there is a high level of expectation toward them to maintain their dress and appearance at a not explicitly stated

Abstract This research investigated the experiences of women, average age of 72 years with active lifestyles and living in one locale in the USA. Experiences of these 54 women with desired appearances and dressing patterns were determined through a survey and selected follow-up interviews. Keeping an up-to-date appearance was important to these women, as was dressing in a coordinated manner and to

Abstract Older adults are at higher risk for fire-related injuries and deaths than younger people due to their impaired physical and sensory functions. However, current fire-safety products could not satisfy their requirements. The purpose of this study was to develop a novel fire-safety product to help older adults safely evacuate from fire. A multifunctional fire-retardant clothing item was developed

Abstract Functional clothing products for older individuals are plentiful in the consumer market, and they are developing rapidly. However, the evaluation methods used for these products are relatively subjective and lack reliability. In this study, we reviewed some objective and quantitative indicators for evaluating functional clothing products and proposed a new method for evaluating functional

Abstract Unlike previous generations, aging American women continue to be active and to purchase new clothing based upon their expressed needs and values. Based on the literature review and interviews of a cohort of women 50+ years, this group can be considered an underrepresented market in the fashion industry. Through the design of four ensembles, the design process is outlined: techniques, procedures

(2021). Book Review. Fashion Practice: Vol. 13, Fashion and Aging, pp. 185-188.

Abstract Women’s upper body changes with age are categorized and analyzed. The researchers validated shape-related measurement variables, extracted principal components, and classified the shapes of 423 women ages 40–69 using 3 D body scans from the CAESAR database. Shape and posture differences were quantified according to four age groups based on 47 measurements processed into 27 shape-related variables;

Abstract This article examines life writing as a research method to uncover new insights about the interrelationships between beings and place including with fashion and clothing. In it, the practice of using oneself as a site of enquiry is presented as a route to ecological understanding where finite, direct experience builds towards rooted, embodied, plural and relational knowing about how we live

Abstract This paper seeks new solutions for greater inclusion of non-standard body types in the apparel industry. 3D body scanning, virtual design tools, and computerized 3D knitting are assessed on their ability to facilitate the mass production of inclusive apparel for persons with disabilities. Four research participants from the disabled community have worked with the author to co-design custom

Abstract This article proposes that a new generation of designers is needed within the UK fashion industry with a combined skill-set of designer-led innovation, a critical approach to new technology and an understanding of new engineering, digital and scientific paradigms. The training of a new type of fashion student/researcher/designer is focused necessarily towards one who is able to work in a transdicsiplinary

(2020). Fashion in a Time of Crisis. Fashion Practice: Vol. 12, No. 3, pp. 327-330.

(2020). Human Body: A Wearable Product Designer’s Guide. Fashion Practice: Vol. 12, No. 3, pp. 440-443.

Abstract Unisex clothing, which can be defined as clothing that can be worn by both males and females, appear to be one of the latest fashion trends. This research project aims to assess the psychological processes behind unisex clothing using a holistic approach. Two studies, using primary research, have been carried out. A first study has been designed to evaluate further how fashion designers would

Abstract Given the growing global demand for footwear, its increasingly shorter life cycle, the billions of pairs of shoes sold and the negative environmental impacts in the shoe supply chain, this paper explores the negative environmental impact in the stages of the life cycle of leather dress footwear and proposals to reduce them, taking the process of manufacturing handmade women’s leather dress

Abstract Although innovative computer-aided design tools offer opportunities for advancing size-inclusive apparel design, minimal design research has been conducted to document the applications of these technologies. The purpose of this study is to identify plus-size women’s needs through mixed method research and to integrate 3D prototyping technology to enhance plus-size apparel design. The research

Abstract The British high street is in a state of demise. Data analysis from The Guardian has revealed that almost every town centre in England and Wales has declined since 2013, with some towns losing over a fifth of their stores. Factors influencing this demise range from Brexit uncertainty, increased rents and business rates, rising operating costs and an increase in online shopping. The aim of

Abstract This research focuses on fashion cycles of punk merchandising interacting with the mainstream. Punks’ perceptions of subcultural styles change as the garments move through cycles internal to the scene, and as the looks are disseminated into mainstream society, furthermore as the individuals age. The framework for this study is the entirety of the punk movement in North America: Punks self-identified

Abstract In the United States, maternity hospital gowns are usually designed to be a one-size-fits-all garment with full back openings that are physically and emotionally uncomfortable, immodest, and not functional. The purpose of this research is to understand the design requirements of patients and practitioners in order to redesign a functional maternity hospital gown. The researchers applied user-centered

Abstract An analysis was conducted of the differences between expert and novice apparel practitioner’s areas of attention and criteria when assessing the fit of a shirt, using goggle type eye-trackers and a questionnaire. The areas of interest (AOIs) which the expert group viewed longer than the novice group during fit assessment were at the collar, waist, side seam line, and dart; the novice group

Abstract This paper explores the scope of eco-fashion and identifies the barriers and motivational factors to eco-fashion adoption in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The key objective is to identify strategies that will influence consumers to perceive eco-fashion more favorably. A total of 20 participants were selected for the in-depth interviews. The two main barriers that surfaced from the interview

Abstract There is a growing number of small fiber farms in the United States that produce materials for handcrafters. Farmers with small fiber farms often use internet sites like Etsy to market and sell their products. The purpose of this research was to examine the selling strategies of farmers with small fiber farms on Etsy and explore how they characterize their farms, lifestyles, animals, and products

Abstract The paper contributes to our understanding of current global Indian fashion engagements with textiles craft by studying the work of Manish Arora and Rahul Mishra. The research starts by analysing what both designers say about their use of crafts; it then considers their collections with special regard to sites of craft production before gauging the international fashion press’s perceptions

Abstract Branded content appears to be the most promising frontier of contemporary companies’ strategies within our hyperconnected society. This new context requires brands to demonstrate an increasing capacity to engage customers in continuous interactions and cultural exchanges through on-going narratives co-created with their audiences and perceived as authentic components of their hybrid physical-digital

Abstract Bollywood is at once inspired by the fashion industry in India both thematically and professionally, and simultaneously inspires the fashion industry. This cross pollination between two industries means artists can cross into parallel artistic careers easily and draw from connections in one industry into the other. Economically this allows for both of these businesses to sustain each other

Abstract Weaving in addition to being one of the oldest art forms is also one of the most prolific employment generating industries in India. However, of late the Industry has faced a significant amount of weaver dropout. “Dropout” here is defined as the phenomenon of deserting weaving as a key full time career option for other avenues, after they have learnt the art of weaving or have practiced it

Abstract As the Indian fashion industry responds to calls for sustainable fashion innovation, many designers consciously look back to India’s rich history of craft to propose solutions for the future. By focusing on the emerging dialogue on craft and sustainability and the work of designer Aneeth Arora for the label Péro, this paper illustrates how through shifting the emphasis towards a model of design

Abstract Fashion upcycling, the process of using waste clothing and textiles to create new products, is an alternative to business-as-usual practices which can effectively address concerns on excessive consumption of energy and material resources and use of chemicals in the fashion industry. Scaling up fashion upcycling businesses could enable the transition of the fashion industry towards sustainability

Abstract Literature has documented how designers use fashion archives as explorative inspiration for designing and cutting fashion collections. (Clarke and De La Haye 2014; Rhys 2011; Riegels Melchior and Svensson 2014; Murphy 2011). This derivative research can inform choices of fabric, silhouette, shape and the skills and technologies employed in the execution of the collection. This paper describes

Abstract From a cosmopolitan localism perspective, the circular economy could be described as a web of smaller circular economies where the core development is situated in local areas, like cities, or regions, with the active participation of territorial stakeholders. The objective of this research is to explore the development of local business model niches within the scope of circular textiles and

Abstract Film media have become an essential part of the symbolic production of fashion, not least because of the emergence of Internet. Fashion film uses storytelling in a way that the audience comes to experience the garments in combination with the film. The film experience then influences viewers’ eventual experience of wearing the garment. Fiction enables fashion and fashion becomes fiction. At

Abstract The commercial market for wearable technologies grew quickly in a short time frame, with a concurrent concentration of applications within a narrow scope. However, consumer dissatisfaction with these applications is on the rise, and product developers are left with the question of where to focus R&D efforts for next-generation technologies. In this study, we explore this topic by assessing

Abstract This paper examines consumer intentions towards sustainable fashion in the Spanish fashion industry. It explores consumer knowledge, attitudes, and behavioral response to sustainable fashion. The research was conducted using a mixed-method strategy. The quantitative questionnaire examines consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion, underpinned by the Theory of Planned Behavior. This was

Abstract This position paper draws upon and expands the research presented in the special issue of the journal Utopian Studies ‘Utopia and Fashion’, guest edited by the author. The issue examined the under-researched relationship between fashion and utopia through the lens of Ruth Levitas’ concept of utopia as method for exploring alternative scenarios for the future. With reference to key lines of

Abstract Building on ideas I first published in 2008 as, “Slow + Fashion - An Oxymoron or a Promise for the Future…?”, this paper brings new insights to the value of a slow approach to fashion. The cases explored for that research indicated the significant role of women practitioners. As a consequence, further investigation and thinking leads me to propose here a development of the slow + fashion discourse

Abstract This article examines the usefulness of the sustainable design cards (SDCs) as a design tool developed for designers and other actors in and around design with a focus on sustainability. There exists an abundance of tools for sustainable fashion and we need to better understand the specific strengths and limitations of each tool, in order for designers to navigate and make the best possible

AbstractA growing consensus is emerging that the modus operandi of the fashion system is in need of change. Yet for change it requires not only incentives but the agency and power to transform. Des...

Abstract This paper sets out reflections and findings from the convening of a community of fashion and other disciplinary researchers, tutors, students, professionals and campaigners, brought together to critically explore and share practices in fashion and sustainability. It foregrounds the imperative for all, rather than some, who design, make, wear, buy and sell fashion, to engage in restorative

Abstract This paper explores the role played by female perceptions of garment quality in relation to how long clothing is kept and how it is used. It considers perceptions of quality in relation to implications for sustainability in fashion. The research involves two phases of empirical data collection conducted in the UK. The first phase draws on a subset of findings from a 12-month laundry study

Abstract Front-end decisions focus on identifying the best approaches and conceptual ideas for a successful innovation process that would yield greater benefits from proposed financial investments. Hence, they are considered as forming the roots of success of the innovation process. Although scholars have emphasized the importance of front-end decisions for quite some time, little attention has been

Abstract In the South Asian Region, the Sri Lankan apparel industry is transitioning from apparel assembly to providing higher value-added product and services. Fashion designers are key actors in this transition. The purpose of this article is to examine the evolving role of the fashion designer in the Sri Lankan apparel industry. The study adopts a qualitative approach through semi-structured interviews

Abstract The purpose of this study is to provide insight into green retail spaces for fashion brands. Particularly, in this study, we analyzed Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)–certified retail stores of fashion brands. The LEED program, which is one of the most widely used green building certification programs in the world, is administered by the United States Green Building Council

Abstract What does it mean to describe a fashion business – a designer, a label, a store – as independent? And how does one recognize it as such? Unlike in other cultural fields such as music or film, there is minimal research offering a comprehensive overview of the concept of “independence” in fashion, despite the sector being highly creative, engaging strongly with cultural and social issues, and

Abstract This study used the framework of esthetic response to analyze student perceptions of outerwear coats as one apparel product considered for its potential for extended wear. Through a pilot, six coats were selected from an historic collection spanning the twentieth century that were deemed to range in respect to the concept of classic design. Undergraduate students (n = 55) in a design communication

Abstract Apparel design solutions for an aging population with unique and changing needs are lacking in the retail industry. This especially applies to baby boomer women. As one of the largest segments of the U.S. population, they will increasingly seek both fashionable and functional apparel that addresses specific needs as they transition into the next stages of life. With changes in ability, attitudes

To counter the unsustainability of the current mainstream fashion system, an increasing number of designers are activating practices of social making aimed at empowering people through shared learning experiences. Within this context, the collaborative network Mode Uncut initiated Make Yourself…, a project focused on socializing value creation through making clothing differently. This article presents

Abstract Fashioned from Nature curated by Edwina Ehrman at the Victoria and Albert Museum spans four centuries of fashion artifacts. This timely exhibition uses a focus on materials to chart the changes in human engagement with nature through fashion, highlighting the environmental consequences of fashion practices worldwide.

Abstract The case of Pre-Helsinki, a designer-driven platform aiming at internationalizing Finnish fashion talents, illustrates how fashion designers through this platform mobilize local actors in reshaping Finnish fashion to increase its visibility at the international level. For this inquiry, the article develops the concept of place-making, which summarizes the collective efforts of fashion designers

Abstract The performance apparel industry has a long history of engaging consumers, or users, in the apparel product development process to enhance existing products and inspire innovations. New design knowledge, in the form of user insights, can drive innovation and meet the exacting needs of the user. However, the methods that apparel product developers use to engage users in the design process remains

Abstract This study examines fashion entrepreneurship from the designer’s perspective. The aim is to identify what kinds of challenges fashion designers face in their simultaneous roles as designers and entrepreneurs, and what the potential advantages of that position are. The article aims to supplement existing research on micro-scale fashion design businesses that has focused primarily on the encountered

Abstract Cheap and accessible fashion from large retailers has, over the last decades, been thought of as a “democratic” form of consumerism. While embraced by masses of people with substantial environmental costs, many designers and researchers have questioned this mode of fast production and consumption. Designers try to create more sustainable models of consumption, often combined with ideas of

Abstract This article challenges traditional ways of understanding fashion as a social phenomenon. By considering the everyday social practice of fashion where looking, wearing, choosing, discarding, consuming, and producing fashion have central roles in understanding fashion’s person–object relationships, this study advances an alternative ontological view of fashion as a volatile emotional condition

Abstract This article draws on a practice-based project, in which I proposed a novel fashion research methodology, Arts-Informed Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis. The methodology highlights the central role of a creative practitioner within research settings and processes. The aim of the project was to develop an in-depth understanding of how a small sample of mature men has experienced fashion

Abstract This study analyzes the role and capacity of fashion designers in the co-design required by the changing environment of the fashion industry and by the spread of consumer-driven culture. Through a comparison of the roles of general fashion designers and co-design fashion designers, we derive a theoretical competence model with intervening conditions. To build up our theoretical competence

Abstract As we find ourselves in the midst of an escalating evaluation culture in art and design universities and colleges, there is concern from both within academia and the wider creative industries that any such assessment begins from an assumption that all creative expression can be conveniently and straightforwardly measured. As more open academic enquiry is being supplanted by evidence-based

AbstractHuman beings are anchored to their landscapes and communities in tight tangles through material culture. In Japan, handmade washi paper is one example of how this process materializes, and traditional paper garments, kamiko, offer insights into a specific method for fashion design that considers embeddedness within landscapes and local communities. Paper may not seem like a suitable material

Abstract As a movement, local food is well developed and its principles and practices widely appreciated. By contrast, the concepts and activity of fashion localism are far less understood. This essay looks to transfer local food experiences to the fashion context by reviewing a number of food-related initiatives and deliberating about ways in which the insights they contain may lead to smaller scale

Abstract Almost 60 years after Aldo Leopold first articulated “the land ethic” this paper extends, to the fashion context, Leopold’s view that an ecological conscience is based in a conviction of individual responsibility for the health of the places in which humans live. The paper’s starting point is that the site of an activity is a criterion for sustainability change. It explores place, or in Leopold’s