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Satellite wave 2D spectrum partition based on the PI-vit-GAN(physically-informed ViT-GAN) method Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-04-09 Tao Lv, Aifeng Tao, Ying Xu, Jianhao Liu, Jun Fan, Gang Wang, Jinhai Zheng
The abundant spectral data provided by satellite technology are crucial for interpreting the complex marine environment, and the effective and accurate analysis of these data is particularly important for coastal engineering. In this regard, this study proposes a Physically Informed ViT-GAN (PI-ViT-GAN) automatic partitioning method, based on CFOSAT satellite wave spectrum data. Specifically, the model
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Effects of free surface modelling and wave-breaking turbulence on depth-resolved modelling of sediment transport in the swash zone Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-04-08 J.W.M. Kranenborg, G.H.P. Campmans, J.J. van der Werf, R.T. McCall, A.J.H.M. Reniers, S.J.M.H. Hulscher
The swash zone is an important region for the coastal morphodynamics. Often, model studies of the swash zone use depth-averaged models. These models typically assume a vertically uniform velocity and sand concentration for calculating the sand transport flux. However, this assumption is not always accurate in the swash zone. In order to investigate the vertical distribution of velocity and sand, we
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On the use of satellite information to detect coastal change: Demonstration case on the coast of Spain Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-04-06 Paula Gomes da Silva, Martínez Sánchez Jara, Raúl Medina, Anne-Laure Beck, Mohamed Amine Taji
Recent developments in satellite processing tools allow low-cost, fast and automatic processing of a large amount of information from Earth observation, enhancing the capability of detecting coastal changes from space at different temporal scales. Some works have assessed the quality of these data and applied it to detect coastal evolution locally, most of them focusing on mid-term and long-term changes
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QuadWave1D: An optimized quadratic formulation for spectral prediction of coastal waves Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-04-05 Gal Akrish, Ad Reniers, Marcel Zijlema, Pieter Smit
Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic
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Linking marsh sustainability to event-based sedimentary processes: Impulsive river floods initiated lateral erosion of deltaic marshes Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-04-02 Kemeng Wang, Guoxiang Wu, Bingchen Liang, Benwei Shi, Huajun Li
Salt marshes providing valuable services in buffering flooding risks are regarded as cost-effective coastal defense solutions. Given that eroding marsh cliffs will threaten the sustainability of these protective functions, there is a need for mechanistic understanding of cliff formation. Based on short-term field measurements together with satellite-derived dataset and a morphodynamic model, we determined
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Practical modelling of sand transport and beach profile evolution in the swash zone Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-04-01 Weiqiu Chen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Suzanne J.M.H. Hulscher
A proper prediction of the cross-shore profile evolution in the swash zone at time scales of days to years is important for evaluating beach management scenarios. However, this practical prediction is challenging due to a limited understanding of the complex physical processes in the swash zone. A quantitative evaluation of three existing practical swash-zone sand transport models, i.e. the Larson
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Study of local scour around rectangular and square subsea caissons under steady current condition Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-25 Mingming Liu, Ming Zhao
Numerical simulations were conducted to investigate steady current scour around rectangular and square subsea caissons. The caissons, which are representative of subsea structures, have a submerged height ranging from 0.5 to several times their longest base dimension. The flow model used is based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations, and the scour model simulates bed load and suspended
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Advancing storm surge forecasting from scarce observation data: A causal-inference based Spatio-Temporal Graph Neural Network approach Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-23 Wenjun Jiang, Jize Zhang, Yuerong Li, Dongqin Zhang, Gang Hu, Huanxiang Gao, Zhongdong Duan
Rapid and precise forecasting of storm surge in coastal regions is crucial for ensuring safety of coastal communities’ life and property. Yet, learning a data-driven forecasting model from observation data such as gauges and post-event reconnaissance remains challenging, due to the observation data scarcity and the real-world complexity. Recently, deep learning has received increasing attention, but
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Time development of live-bed scour around an offshore-wind monopile under large current–wave ratio Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-21 Xin Wang, Jing Yuan, Xu Qiu, Haodong Huang, Peng Lin, Xin Liu, Hao Hu
Scour around a circular monopile in coastal regions has been investigated extensively over the past decades, but the time development of scour depth around an offshore-wind monopile under large current–wave ratio still lacks a predictive model. By considering the conservation of sand volume and adopting the conventional exponential law for temporal variation, a semi-empirical model, which has three
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A theoretical model for wave attenuation by vegetation considering current effects Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-21 Huiran Liu, Haiqi Fang, Pengzhi Lin
A new theoretical model is derived to predict wave attenuation in an emerged vegetation domain under current influences by considering the current effects on changing both wave group velocity and energy dissipation rate. Considering the current effect on changing wave group velocity, the theory predicts an asymmetric behavior of wave decay in following and opposing currents, different from the earlier
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Time development of clear-water scour around a pile foundation: Phenomenological theory of turbulence-based approach Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-20 Shun-Yi Wang, Wen-Gang Qi, Fu-Ping Gao, Biao Li, Ben He
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Hydrodynamic performance of a land-based multi-chamber OWC wave energy capture system: An experimental study Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-19 Dezhi Ning, Lei Fu, Yu Zhou, Robert Mayon, Yuhang Zhang
Improving ocean wave energy capture in a cost-effective manner is a challenging task. Multi-chamber oscillating water column (OWC) devices are gaining favor due to their potentially efficient characteristics. This research experimentally investigated the hydrodynamic performance of a land-based OWC wave energy capture system with multiple chambers (ranging from 1 to 5). The free surface elevation,
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On the onset of pipeline scouring: Reconciling waves and currents forcing Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-19 Francesco Marini, Matteo Postacchini, Claudia Pizzigalli, Maurizio Badalini, Sara Corvaro, Maurizio Brocchini
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A semi-empirical formula of beach slope on flat lower platforms Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-18 Ivana M. Mingo, Laurent Lacaze, Rafael Almar
The beach slope is a key component characterizing the coastal response to wave forcing. Here we investigate the rapid adaptation of the upper beach slope to a given wave forcing, for the case of a lower flat platform. Such types of morphology are found on coral and rocky reef beaches and low tide terrace environments. The influence of the lower platform on this rapid equilibrium beach state is shown
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A deep-learning model for rapid spatiotemporal prediction of coastal water levels Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-18 Ali Shahabi, Navid Tahvildari
With the increasing impact of climate change and relative sea level rise, low-lying coastal communities face growing risks from recurrent nuisance flooding and storm tides. Thus, timely and reliable predictions of coastal water levels are critical to resilience in vulnerable coastal areas. Over the past decade, there has been increasing interest in utilizing machine learning (ML) based models for emulation
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Machine learning motivated data imputation of storm data used in coastal hazard assessments Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-14 Ziyue Liu, Meredith L. Carr, Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo, Madison C. Yawn, Alexandros A. Taflanidis, Michelle T. Bensi
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Island-based GNSS-IR network for tsunami detecting and warning Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-12 Linlin Li, Qiang Qiu, Mai Ye, Dongju Peng, Ya-Ju Hsu, Peitao Wang, Huabin Shi, Kristine M. Larson, Peizhen Zhang
Deep-sea tsunami detection relies on Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis (DART), GNSS buoys, and cabled Ocean-Bottom Pressure (OBP) gauges, which are very expensive and difficult to maintain, and often suffer from vandalism or negligent damage. Here, we exploit the potential of establishing a less expensive and more robust island-based geodetic network for tsunami detecting, source reconstruction
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The impact of modulational instability on coastal wave forecasting using quadratic models Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-11 Gal Akrish, Ad Reniers, Marcel Zijlema, Pieter Smit
Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain models, nonlinear mild-slope models, amplitude models, etc
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A novel hybrid machine learning model for rapid assessment of wave and storm surge responses over an extended coastal region Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-08 Saeed Saviz Naeini, Reda Snaiki
Storm surge and waves are responsible for a substantial portion of tropical and extratropical cyclones-related damages. While high-fidelity numerical models have significantly advanced the simulation accuracy of storm surge and waves, they are not practical to be employed for probabilistic analysis, risk assessment or rapid prediction due to their high computational demands. In this study, a novel
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Simulating decadal cross-shore dynamics at nourished coasts with Crocodile Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-06 Tosca Kettler, Matthieu de Schipper, Arjen Luijendijk
Projections of high rates of sea level rise have stimulated proposals for adaptation strategies with increasingly high nourishment volumes along sandy beaches. An underlying assumption is that coastal profiles respond rapidly to nourishments by redistributing sediments towards a (new) equilibrium shape. However, this perception may not be valid when high volumes of nourishment are applied, as the profile
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Laboratory observation of nonlinear wave shapes due to spatial varying opposing currents Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-05 Hongzhou Chen, Yongsen Zhao, Lili Mei, Fukun Gui
Physical experiments were conducted to examine the influence of adverse currents on the propagation of shallower water waves and their impact on the evolution of nonlinear wave shapes. Irregular waves, characterized by varying initial peak periods and amplitudes, were generated in a physical wave flume equipped with a bottom slope of 1/20. Three groups of spatially varying opposing currents were generated
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Vertical structure of flows on a shallow reef flat: A coral reef surf zone Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-03-05 Stephen G. Monismith, Samantha A. Maticka, Justin S. Rogers, Ben Hefner, C. Brock Woodson
We present a 1D model of the vertical structure of wave-driven flows on a shallow coral reef and compare that model to observations made on the reef flat on Ofu, American Samoa. This model is based on longstanding approaches to modeling flow structure in beach surf zones including the averaged effects of breaking and broken surface waves. Waves enter the model through an imbalance between the radiation
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Experimental reproduction of inhomogeneous fjord waves Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-23 Sébastien Laflèche, Konstantinos Christakos, Babak Ommani, Sébastien Fouques, Trygve Kristiansen
Waves in coastal areas and fjords can present inhomogeneities that affect the responses of very large floating structures. However, spatial inhomogeneities of waves are usually not included in model testing. In this paper, the feasibility of generating inhomogeneous wave conditions in an Ocean basin is investigated. For that purpose, a fast linear numerical model of a basin of constant depth is applied
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Projecting compound wave and sea-level events at a coastal structure site under climate change Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-22 D. Lucio, J.L. Lara, A. Tomás, I.J. Losada
In this paper, an innovative framework is introduced for assessing the impact of climate change on coastal structures, with a primary emphasis on modeling future climate conditions. The framework encompasses several key components: the development of a new climate emulator to facilitate multivariate extreme value analysis; a hybrid statistical–numerical wave propagation strategy; and the integration
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Field implementation to resist coastal erosion of sandy slope by eco-friendly methods Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-20 Yujie Li, Zhen Guo, Lizhong Wang, Yongqiang Zhu, Shengjie Rui
Coastal erosion is a global issue that not only compresses land space but also undermines offshore structures. In this study, two eco-friendly technologies (microbially and enzyme induced calcium carbonate precipitation) were implemented at a sandy slope field site to enhance erosion resistance. Improvement of the treated sandy slope against erosion was assessed by penetration resistance, calcium carbonate
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Measuring hydrodynamics and exploring nearshore processes using distributed sensing of fiber-optic cable strain Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-19 H.E. Glover, M.E. Wengrove, R. Holman
Distributed Acoustic Sensing (DAS) is a new method for recording oceanographic processes using seafloor fiber-optic cables, such as telecommunication cables. DAS returns spatially distributed measurements of cable strain, which can be related to hydrodynamic pressure, turning a submarine cable into a dense sampling array. A reinforced fiber-optic cable was installed in the cross-shore from the dune
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Wave transformation across impermeable and porous artificial reefs Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-16 Jianjun Huang, Ryan J. Lowe, Marco Ghisalberti, Jeff E. Hansen
Porous artificial reefs can function as nature-based solutions for coastal protection, due to their ability to dissipate wave energy while providing habitat for marine species. However, due to the lack of quantitative understanding of wave interactions with porous artificial reefs, there is uncertainty in how to optimize design for coastal protection applications. To address this gap, physical modelling
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Small ship collisions in coastal areas during tsunamis: Impact on seawalls behind sand dunes Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-14 Yonghwan Cho, Tomoaki Nakamura, Norimi Mizutani, Wataru Sugimoto
Coastal regions often feature seawalls situated behind sand dunes, introducing unique topographical factors that significantly influence ship drift and collision behavior. This study investigates the collision dynamics of a small ship, particularly fishing boats, in coastal areas during tsunamis and the subsequent impact forces on a seawall behind dunes. Through hydraulic model experiments, the characteristics
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Repeatability of beach morphology change under identical wave forcing Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-09 Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Alan J. Hunter, Tom E. Baldock, Paul M. Bayle, Judith Bosboom, Daniel Conley, Gerd Masselink
Laboratory investigations of beach morphology change under wave action are undertaken to gain insight into coastal processes, design coastal structures and validate the predictions of numerical models. For the results of such experiments to be reliable, it is necessary that they are repeatable. The equilibrium beach concept, that beach morphology will evolve to a quasi-static equilibrium shape for
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A copula-based model to describe the uncertainty of overtopping variables on mound breakwaters Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-08 Patricia Mares-Nasarre, Marcel R.A. van Gent, Oswaldo Morales-Nápoles
Rising sea levels caused by climate change are increasing the risk of overtopping on coastal structures. Moreover, there is a growing societal concern about the visual impact of these structures, which leads to the lowering of their crest freeboards. In previous studies, safety during overtopping events was assessed considering the overtopping layer thickness (), the overtopping flow velocity () and
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Numerical modelling of tsunami propagation in idealised converging water body geometries Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-07 Zhiwen Chen, Valentin Heller, Riccardo Briganti
Tsunamis have caused many severe natural disasters in human history, such as in 2018 at Palu City located in a narrow bay resulting in over 4340 fatalities. The tsunami propagation characteristics are greatly affected by the water body geometry. For converging geometries such as fjords, bays and estuaries, the interaction between incident tsunamis and lateral boundaries has not been extensively studied
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Estimating the effect of assumed initial damage to the hydraulic stability of pattern-placed revetments on dikes using finite element modeling Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-07 N. van der Vegt, W.J. Klerk, D.J. Peters, M.R.A. van Gent, B. Hofland
Initial damage, caused by previous wave loading or other events, might affect the hydraulic stability of pattern-placed revetments. Three common types of damage are considered in this study. The effect of this assumed initial damage on the hydraulic stability and failure probability of revetments is quantified using a FEM model. This model is developed using data from large-scale flume and field experiments
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Application of an optical tracking technique to characterize nearshore wave-driven transport and dispersion of model driftwood Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-03 Enda Murphy, Ioan Nistor, Andrew Cornett, Alistair Rayner, Scott Baker, Jacob Stolle
Driftwood is abundant in coastal zones, and is increasingly being incorporated in nature-based shore protection and restoration projects. However, accumulations of driftwood, and their mobilization by storms or other disturbances, can pose hazards to coastal communities, infrastructure, and ecosystems. An improved understanding of driftwood dynamics in nearshore, wave-dominated environments is needed
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The importance of time-varying, non-tidal currents in modelling in-situ sand wave dynamics Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-02 P.H.P. Overes, B.W. Borsje, A.P. Luijendijk, S.J.M.H. Hulscher
Sand waves are found on shallow, sandy seabeds throughout the world and their dynamics may pose an imminent threat to offshore construction. Therefore, there is a pressing need to understand bed level dynamics in sand wave areas. These bed level dynamics lead to variations in sand wave shape and migration rate over time. However, these variations cannot be explained with the present-day process-based
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The role of roughness geometry in frictional wave dissipation Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-01 Solène Dealbera, Damien Sous, Denis Morichon, Héloïse Michaud
Bottom friction dissipation is a key factor for wave attenuation in nearshore environments presenting complex geomorphological structures, such as rocky or coral shores. The present paper reports on a series of laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume with controlled wave conditions and seabed structures. Using the frequency-integrated short-wave analysis and classical models for bottom friction
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Laboratory investigation on the runup of leading-depression N-waves on a uniform slope Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-02-01 Peter H.-Y. Lo, Wen-Yu Chen, Chun-Jui Huang
Tsunamis are sometimes observed to lead with a wave trough, causing the shoreline to recede before the main tsunami wave arrives and floods the coast. The widely adopted benchmark wave, the solitary wave, is unable to capture this drawback phenomenon, amongst the many shortcomings in using the solitary wave to mimic a tsunami. To investigate how the drawback phenomenon affects wave runup, in this study
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Small-scale field experiment on wave forces on a U-OWC breakwater Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-31 Alessandra Romolo, Bruna Timpano, Valentina Laface, Vincenzo Fiamma, Felice Arena
A small-scale field experiment is conducted on a U-Oscillating Water Column (U-OWC) incorporated into a model of caisson breakwater at the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL) laboratory of Reggio Calabria (Italy). The U-OWC or REWEC (REsonant Wave Energy Converter) is a device belonging to the family of Oscillating Water Columns (OWCs), characterized by the introduction of a U-duct. Such a
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Scour around twin-piles under combined wave–current flows Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-30 Debasish Dutta, Mohammad Saud Afzal
The paper presents three dimensional simulations of scour around a pair of piles arranged side-by-side configurations under combined wave–current flow conditions using a computational fluid dynamics model. The Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equation is solved using the k- turbulence model in the present work. The Exner equation is used to measure the variations in bed elevation. The level-Set
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Simulation of breaching of laboratory-scale earth dams by overtopping with XBeach Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-29 K. Barlow, R.P. Mulligan, S. McDougall, S.G. Evans, W.A. Take
Catastrophic breaches of water and mine waste retaining impoundments in recent history have emphasized the severity and consequences to the downstream environment. In this study, the applicability and suitability of the XBeach numerical model for modelling earth dam failures driven by overtopping with water is explored by detailed comparison with controlled experimental data. The XBeach model is applied
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Numerical simulations of wave-soil-structure interactions for a subsea cover Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-29 Guang Yin, Alexandr Gorikhin, Christian Linde Olsen, Shengnan Liu, Muk Chen Ong
Glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) subsea protection covers are widely used to prevent damage to offshore pipelines placed on the seabed from dropped objects, hydrodynamic wave induced loads, and trawling. The light GRP subsea covers could be stabilized by using skirts which penetrate the seabed soil. The dynamic wave pressure acting on the cover will transfer to the cover bottom and the skirt and further
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Investigating wave shape effect on sediment transport over migrating ripples using an eulerian two-phase model Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-26 Ali Salimi-Tarazouj, Tian-Jian Hsu, Peter Traykovski, Julien Chauchat
A Reynolds-averaged two-phase Eulerian model for sediment transport, SedFoam, is utilized in a two-dimensional domain for a given sediment grain size, flow period, and mobility number to study the asymmetric and skewed flow effects on the sediment transport over coarse-sand migrating ripples. First, the model is validated with a full-scale water tunnel experiment of orbital ripple driven by acceleration
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On the wave attenuation properties of seagrass meadows Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-24 Davide Vettori, Paolo Pezzutto, Tjeerd J. Bouma, Amirarsalan Shahmohammadi, Costantino Manes
The wave attenuation properties of seagrass meadows were investigated in a flume facility using dynamically-scaled models of seagrass exposed to regular long crested waves. Experiments were conducted for 66 wave conditions and with four plant densities; waves were measured with eight resistance wave gauges. The data collected represent the most-comprehensive dataset of its kind. They reveal that the
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Characterizing longshore transport potential and divergence of drift to inform beach loss trends Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-24 Daniel T. Kahl, Lawrence M. Vulis, Jochen E. Schubert, Brett F. Sanders
Beach loss is a growing global challenge that threatens the safety of coastal communities, the health of coastal ecosystems, recreational amenities, and regional economies dependent on tourism. Spatial gradients in longshore sediment transport, or divergence of drift (DoD), is a primary driver of beach width change over multi-annual time scales, but the response of any particular beach can be challenging
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Numerical simulation of particles beneath a towed circular cylinder Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-24 Karen B. Burgaard, Stefan Carstensen, David R. Fuhrman, Finbarr G. O’Neill
This study investigates particle dynamics around a towed circular cylinder near a wall. The flow field obtained from a numerical model based on the Reynolds-Average Navier–Stokes equations is utilized to estimate the particle trajectories computed using a Lagrangian approach. The simulated flow resembles a towed fishing gear and the particles which represent sea stars, muscles, and sediments are seeded
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Development of a Bayesian network-based early warning system for storm-driven coastal erosion Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-21 J.L. Garzon, O. Ferreira, T.A. Plomaritis, A.C. Zózimo, C.J.E.M. Fortes, L.V. Pinheiro
Coastal hazards such as flooding and erosion can cause large economic and human losses. Under this threat, early warning systems can be very cost-effective solutions for disaster preparation. The goal of this study was to develop, test, and implement an operational coastal erosion early warning system supported by a particular method of machine learning. Thus, the system combines Bayesian Networks
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Transformed-FNV: Wave forces on a vertical cylinder — A free-surface formulation Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-19 P.H. Taylor, T. Tang, T.A.A. Adcock, J. Zang
Existing force models for a vertical surface-piercing cylinder require water depth integration from the seabed to the free surface to determine the total inline force. However, acquiring the full wave kinematics profiles beneath the water surface presents a significant computational task. We revisit the finite water depth version of the well-known FNV theory (Kristiansen and Faltinsen, 2017) and propose
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Numerical simulations of flow inside a stone protection layer with a modified k-ω turbulence model Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-18 Yanyan Zhai, David R. Fuhrman, Erik Damgaard Christensen
A numerical model is developed to investigate the flow in porous media, for the purposes of simulating scour protection around coastal and offshore structures. In the present model, the Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations are solved, coupled with the volume-averaged turbulence closure. The volume-averaged equations are derived by taking the spatial average of the standard
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Experimental study of coherent structures and bed shear stress on a smooth bed under a solitary wave Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-13 Francis C.K. Ting, Gunnar S. Kern
The coherent structures induced by a solitary wave on a smooth bed were studied in a wave flume. The solitary wave was near the point of incipient breaking and the wave Reynolds number was in the intermittent turbulent regime. The velocity field inside the bottom boundary layer was measured using a Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) system. The bed shear stress was obtained from the measured velocities
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Satellite-derived bathymetry from correlation of Sentinel-2 spectral bands to derive wave kinematics: Qualification of Sentinel-2 S2Shores estimates with hydrographic standards Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-12 Rafael Almar, Erwin W.J. Bergsma, Grégoire Thoumyre, Lemai-Chenevier Solange, Sophie Loyer, Stephanie Artigues, Grégoire Salles, Thierry Garlan, Anne Lifermann
There is a pressing need for a fast and efficient satellite remote sensing tool to estimate coastal bathymetry for any coastline in the world. To date, satellite methods for deriving bathymetry have mainly focused on linking the radiometric response to a known water depth, as with SPOT, Landsat and Sentinel. Here, wave properties (static and dynamic) are approximated using the small time delay between
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Hydrodynamic and energy-harvesting performance of an isolated oscillating water column device: An experimental study Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-11 Zhen Liu, Chuanli Xu, Kilwon Kim, Xiaoxia Zhang, Dezhi Ning
Most previous experimental studies on the hydrodynamic and aerodynamic performances of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter were conducted in a wave flume. In this study, an experimental study on an isolated OWC plant is carried out in a wave tank. The interactions between the OWC system and incident regular and irregular waves are analyzed by measuring the surrounding wave fields
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Reduced wave time series for long-term morphodynamic applications Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-06 Francesca Scipione, Paolo De Girolamo, Myrta Castellino, Davide Pasquali, Daniele Celli, Marcello Di Risio
Shoreline models have usually been recognized by professionals as the most appropriate tool for reproducing the long-term morphodynamic evolution of the shoreline of sandy beaches. Despite their underlying simplifications, the simulation of shoreline evolution at large temporal and spatial scales may imply significant computational efforts. Hence, to reduce computational costs, many approaches aimed
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Numerical construction tests to assess the feasibility of placement grids for Cubipod Homogeneous Low-Crested Structures Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-06 Sergio Muñoz-Palao, Pilar Díaz-Carrasco, Jorge Molines, M. Esther Gómez-Martín, Josep R. Medina
Placement grid design is a key phase when constructing armor layers in mound breakwaters. Homogeneous Low-Crested Structures (HLCS) are low-crested structures designed as artificial reefs for marine colonization, coral reef regeneration and beach protection. The placement grid affects the construction feasibility, hydraulic stability and wave transmission of HLCS. This study presents a numerical methodology
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Observations of river-wave interactions at a small-scale river mouth Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-06 Alonso Roco, Raúl P. Flores, Megan E. Williams, Gonzalo S. Saldías
Small coastal rivers often discharge directly into the surfzone, where the fate of freshwater and river-borne materials (e.g., sediment, nutrients and contaminants) is primarily determined by interactions between buoyant plume processes and the nearshore wave forcing. Understanding river-wave interactions in the surfzone is essential to assess coastal water quality and impacts on ecosystem health along
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In memoriam bill (Jan Willem – John William) Kamphuis Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2024-01-04 Ryan P. Mulligan, Jane McKee Smith, Marcel J.F. Stive
Abstract not available
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Discussion of “Experimental investigation into the boundary layer structure near the tip of a dam-break wave on a dry, rough and horizontal bed” by Beibei Xu, Rui Shi, Peter Nielsen, Zheng Gong Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2023-12-31 T.E. Baldock
Abstract not available
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Satellite observations of storm erosion and recovery of the Ebro Delta coastline Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2023-12-30 C. Cabezas-Rabadán, J.E. Pardo-Pascual, J. Palomar-Vázquez, A. Roch-Talens, J. Guillén
Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an updated and accurate knowledge of morphological changes occurred to beaches, being the shoreline position a good indicator of them. This work proposes the use of open-source SAET software for the definition of satellite-derived
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Hydrodynamic coupling of multi-fidelity solvers in REEF3D with application to ship-induced wave modelling Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2023-12-30 León-Carlos Dempwolff, Christian Windt, Hans Bihs, Gregor Melling, Ingrid Holzwarth, Nils Goseberg
Ship-induced waves are an increasingly relevant hydrodynamic forcing factor in waterways travelled by large seagoing ships. The discrepancy between the small-scale wave-structure interaction near embankments and the larger-scale wave generation and propagation poses challenges for the prediction of ship-induced waves as a multi-scale problem. Therefore, a novel hydrodynamic coupling interface is presented
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Predicting marine and aeolian contributions to the Sand Engine’s evolution using coupled modelling Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2023-12-27 Bart van Westen, Arjen P. Luijendijk, Sierd de Vries, Nicholas Cohn, Tim W.B. Leijnse, Matthieu A. de Schipper
Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous
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Combined storm surge and wave overtopping inundation based on fully coupled storm surge-wave-tide model Coast. Eng. (IF 4.4) Pub Date : 2023-12-26 Junbeom Jo, Sooyoul Kim, Nobuhito Mori, Hajime Mase
Inundations in low-lying coastal areas are commonly caused by compound flooding due to the combination of surge overflow and wave overtopping. The increasing frequency of strong tropical cyclones accompanied by high waves is exacerbating flooding risks. In recent studies, wave-induced flooding (i.e., wave run-up and overtopping) has been reported as a critical component of coastal inundations. However