Purpose

This study aims to contribute to the debate on the efficacy of softer regulations to prevent violations of workers’ rights in the global clothing supply chain.

Design/methodology/approach

This study draws on value trap and adverse incorporations as a theoretical lens to understand the reasons behind the continued violations of workers’ rights. The empirical findings are based on an analysis of 24 semi-structured interviews with workers and owners. Extensive documentary evidence to track the plight of workers in Bangladeshi clothing factories during the pandemic.

Findings

The study demonstrates how imbalances in supply chain relationships allow retailers to take advantage of the pandemic. The authors find that some retailers worsened the working conditions by cancelling orders, demanding discounts on old orders and forcing suppliers to agree to a lower price for new orders. Large brands and retailers’ responses to the COVID-19 pandemic remind us that softer regulations, such as third-party audits, are likely to be ineffective given the power imbalance at the heart of the supply chain.

Practical implications

The study presents a case for regulatory frameworks and intense stakeholder activism to encourage large retailers and brands to behave responsibly. This is especially important when a supply chain is value-trapped and workers are adversely incorporated and unprotected.

Originality/value

Drawing on studies on adverse incorporations, value-trapped supply chains and the plight of workers during the COVID-19 pandemic, the study offers a broader understanding of the continued violation of workers’ rights and the efficacy of softer regulations.

中文翻译：

---

供应链问责制、COVID-19 和全球服装供应链中侵犯工人权利的行为

目的

本研究旨在促进关于更宽松的法规在防止全球服装供应链中侵犯工人权利方面的有效性的辩论。

设计/方法/途径

本研究利用价值陷阱和不利合并作为理论视角来理解持续侵犯工人权利背后的原因。实证结果基于对 24 位工人和业主的半结构化访谈的分析。追踪大流行期间孟加拉国服装厂工人困境的大量书面证据。

发现

该研究表明供应链关系的不平衡如何使零售商能够利用这一流行病。作者发现，一些零售商通过取消订单、要求对旧订单打折并迫使供应商同意为新订单提供更低的价格来恶化工作条件。大型品牌和零售商对 COVID-19 大流行的反应提醒我们，鉴于供应链核心的权力不平衡，较宽松的监管（例如第三方审计）可能无效。

实际影响

该研究提出了监管框架和强烈的利益相关者积极行动的案例，以鼓励大型零售商和品牌负责任地行事。当供应链陷入价值陷阱并且工人被不利地整合并且没有受到保护时，这一点尤其重要。

原创性/价值

该研究借鉴了在 COVID-19 大流行期间对不良合并、价值受限的供应链和工人困境的研究，使人们对持续侵犯工人权利的行为和更宽松的法规的效力有了更广泛的了解。