Craft food and beverage makers regularly emphasize transparency about the ethical, sustainable sourcing of their ingredients and the human labour underpinning their production, all of which helps elevate the status of their products and occupational communities. Yet, as with other niche ethical consumption markets, craft industries continue to rely on employment conditions for agricultural workers that reproduce inequalities of race, class, and citizenship in the dominant food system. This paper interrogates the contradiction between the exaltation of craft cidermakers’ labour and the devaluation of farmworker labour by assessing how craft beverage actors make sense of inequalities facing manually skilled agricultural workers. Through a focus on the emerging craft cider industry, this paper draws on in-depth interviews and ethnographic data with a range of urban and rural cider actors in the Pacific Northwest (British Columbia, Oregon, and Washington State). I find that actors in the craft cider industry engage with inequalities affecting farmworkers through three main patterns: (1) Justifications of the status quo; (2) Supply chain fog; and (3) Misgiving/critique. By using an analytical framework that integrates critical agrarianism and the politics of sight, this study provides insights into both barriers and opportunities to redistribute social recognition and material rewards across food supply chains.

工艺食品和饮料制造商经常强调其原料的道德、可持续采购以及支撑其生产的人力的透明度，所有这些都有助于提升其产品和职业社区的地位。然而，与其他利基道德消费市场一样，手工业继续依赖农业工人的就业条件，这些条件再现了主导食品系统中种族、阶级和公民身份的不平等。本文通过评估工艺饮料参与者如何理解手工熟练的农业工人所面临的不平等现象，探讨了工艺苹果酒制造商劳动力的提升与农场工人劳动力的贬值之间的矛盾。通过专注于新兴的精酿苹果酒行业，本文利用对太平洋西北部（不列颠哥伦比亚省、俄勒冈州和华盛顿州）一系列城市和农村苹果酒生产者的深入访谈和人种学数据。我发现精酿苹果酒行业的参与者通过三种主要模式参与影响农场工人的不平等：（1）现状的正当性；（2）供应链迷雾；(3) 疑虑/批评。通过使用将批判性农业主义和视觉政治相结合的分析框架，本研究提供了对跨食品供应链重新分配社会认可和物质奖励的障碍和机会的见解。我发现精酿苹果酒行业的参与者通过三种主要模式参与影响农场工人的不平等：（1）现状的正当性；（2）供应链迷雾；(3) 疑虑/批评。通过使用将批判性农业主义和视觉政治相结合的分析框架，本研究提供了对跨食品供应链重新分配社会认可和物质奖励的障碍和机会的见解。我发现精酿苹果酒行业的参与者通过三种主要模式参与影响农场工人的不平等：（1）现状的正当性；（2）供应链迷雾；(3) 疑虑/批评。通过使用将批判性农业主义和视觉政治相结合的分析框架，本研究提供了对跨食品供应链重新分配社会认可和物质奖励的障碍和机会的见解。