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Incorporating wave-breaking data in the calibration of a Boussinesq-type wave model
Coastal Engineering ( IF 4.4 ) Pub Date : 2021-06-24 , DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103945
Joaquin P. Moris , Patricio A. Catalán , Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Wave breaking is one of the main forcing mechanisms in coastal hydrodynamics, driving mean water levels and currents. Its accurate representation and modeling is therefore essential to develop a thorough understanding and predictive capabilities. In this work, the performance of a 1D Boussinesq Type Model is assessed by expanding the traditional approach of calibrating the models against profiles and time series of wave quantities data, with remotely sensed observations of the spatio-temporal occurrence of breaking events, on a laboratory setting considering one regular and one irregular wave condition over a fixed barred beach. A re-analysis of calibrated parameters from a wave breaking model based on the turbulent roller analogy is performed using observed wave-by-wave breaking events. The calibration process aims at matching the initiation/cessation of individual breaking events, and the histograms of breaking occurrence at each location. Results confirm that it is possible to find a physically sound parameter space that yields minimal differences in profiles of phase averaged quantities such as the root-mean-square wave height, wave setup, skewness, and asymmetry; nevertheless, not all of these parameter combinations succeed in representing the spatio-temporal occurrence of breaking events. These results suggest that models can reproduce the overall behavior of wave breaking dissipation, although this does not necessarily mean that the process itself is appropriately modeled. This could in turn influence the modeling capability of other quantities derived from these models, such as mean currents. It is thus considered that incorporating spatio-temporal wave breaking data is essential in assessing model performances.



中文翻译:

在 Boussinesq 型波浪模型校准中加入破波数据

波浪破碎是沿海流体动力学中的主要强迫机制之一,驱动平均水位和水流。因此,其准确的表示和建模对于开发透彻的理解和预测能力至关重要。在这项工作中,一维 Boussinesq 型模型的性能是通过扩展根据波形和时间序列波浪量数据校准模型的传统方法来评估的,并在实验室中对断裂事件的时空发生进行遥感观测设置考虑固定禁止海滩上的一种规则和一种不规则波浪条件。使用观察到的逐波破碎事件对基于湍流滚子类比的波浪破碎模型的校准参数进行重新分析。校准过程旨在匹配各个断路事件的开始/停止,以及每个位置断路发生的直方图。结果证实,可以找到一个物理上合理的参数空间,该空间在相位平均量的分布中产生最小差异,例如均方根波高、波设置、偏度和不对称性;然而,并非所有这些参数组合都能成功地表示破坏事件的时空发生。这些结果表明模型可以再现波浪破碎耗散的整体行为,尽管这并不一定意味着过程本身被适当地建模。这反过来又会影响从这些模型导出的其他量的建模能力,例如平均电流。

更新日期:2021-06-28
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