Serbian-born textile designer Bernat Klein (1922–2014) emigrated to the United Kingdom in 1945 and based his textile manufacturing business in the Scottish borders. From humble beginnings this young emigre designer went on to produce couture fabrics for the leading fashion houses of Europe. Klein also worked as a colour consultant and industrial designer during an illustrious career spanning four decades. This article explores Klein’s design process by drawing on the archive and collection of his work held by National Museums Scotland. Heriot Watt University also holds a substantial collection of Bernat Klein’s work and comparisons are made between the two collections. Focusing on fashion textiles, this article investigates and draws connections between objects within the collection, shedding new light on Klein’s practice as a textile designer in post-war Britain. The relationship between Klein’s paintings and textiles and his pioneering approach to colour is also investigated. The extensive press archive held by National Museums Scotland and Klein’s own writings are called upon to contextualize the discussion of Klein’s design process and his changing relationship with the fashion industry.

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说明设计过程：伯纳特克莱因收藏和档案，苏格兰国家博物馆

塞尔维亚出生的纺织品设计师 Bernat Klein（1922-2014）于 1945 年移居英国，并在苏格兰边境建立了他的纺织品制造业务。这位年轻的移民设计师出身卑微，后来为欧洲领先的时装公司生产高级定制面料。Klein 还在长达四年的辉煌职业生涯中担任过色彩顾问和工业设计师。本文通过借鉴苏格兰国家博物馆收藏的他的作品档案和收藏，探讨了 Klein 的设计过程。赫瑞瓦特大学还收藏了大量 Bernat Klein 的作品，并在这两个收藏品之间进行了比较。本文以时尚纺织品为重点，调查并绘制系列内物品之间的联系，揭示了克莱因在战后英国作为纺织品设计师的实践。克莱因的绘画和纺织品之间的关系以及他对色彩的开创性方法也进行了调查。苏格兰国家博物馆和 Klein 自己的著作所拥有的大量新闻档案被要求将 Klein 的设计过程和他与时尚界不断变化的关系的讨论结合起来。