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Pickles and agrobiodiversity: a foodway and traditional vegetable varieties in Japan
Agriculture and Human Values ( IF 4.5 ) Pub Date : 2021-06-02 , DOI: 10.1007/s10460-021-10219-9
Aya H. Kimura

Foodways are important in understanding the bio-cultural dynamics of crop diversity. This paper examines the example of tsukemono (Japanese pickles) and their importance for heirloom vegetables. Social histories of heirlooms and tsukemono were difficult to obtain, so various sources from archives, published reports, to interviews were used to stitch together the stories of the tsukemono-heirloom relationships. The paper finds that tsukemono has provided different opportunities for heirlooms. Tsukemono can enhance the taste and flavors of heirlooms. Pickling can make the best of heirloom’s unique tastes even when they are not suited for other uses. Moreover, certain tsukemono has historically been associated with important social customs like gift-giving and seasonal events. The theoretical contribution of this study is to analyze the foodway-heirloom relationships from the vantage point of the political economy of agrofood systems. It is not enough to say a particular foodway is important for heirlooms. The paper reveals the necessity of analyses that situate the heirloom- foodway relationships in the modern agrofood systems. Changes not only in agriculture but also in consumption, retail, and processing are crucial in understanding the heirloom-foodway relationship.



中文翻译:

泡菜和农业生物多样性:日本的食品和传统蔬菜品种

饮食方式对于理解作物多样性的生物文化动态很重要。本文以tsukemono为例(日本泡菜)及其对传家宝蔬菜的重要性。传家宝和筑物的社会历史很难获得,因此从档案、发表的报告到采访等各种来源被用来拼接筑物与传家宝关系的故事。该论文发现,tsukemono 为传家宝提供了不同的机会。Tsukemono 可以增强传家宝的味道和风味。腌制可以充分利用传家宝的独特口味,即使它们不适合其他用途。此外,某些筑物历来与重要的社会习俗有关,例如送礼和季节性活动。本研究的理论贡献是从农业食品系统的政治经济学的有利角度分析了食道与传家宝的关系。仅仅说特定的食物对传家宝很重要是不够的。该论文揭示了在现代农业食品系统中定位传家宝-食品途径关系的分析的必要性。不仅在农业方面,而且在消费、零售和加工方面的变化对于理解传家宝与食品的关系都至关重要。

更新日期:2021-06-02
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