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The colors of pre-Hispanic textiles from cemeteries in the Quillagua and San Pedro de Atacama oases of Northern Chile
Color Research and Application ( IF 1.4 ) Pub Date : 2021-05-22 , DOI: 10.1002/col.22676
Hermann M. Niemeyer 1 , Lina M. Cárdenas 2 , David Véliz 3
Affiliation  

Few sources of red (anthraquinoids) and blue (indigoids) dyes were used in pre-Hispanic textiles from different cultures, periods, and areas in the South-Central Andes. Yellow dyes have been shown to be mainly flavonoids. Since flavonoids exhibit wide color variations, ample distribution dependent on biogeographical region, and species-specific patterns, color variation in yellow-dyed textiles and sources of yellow dyes are predicted to be higher in relation to red- and blue-colored textiles. The study of textile colors, in particular the comparison between yellow and other colors, should shed light on the relationship of people with the environment and on the processes of selection of sources of raw materials for textiles. Colorimetric data in the CIELAB three-dimensional space were obtained of yarns sampled from pre-Hispanic textiles from San Pedro de Atacama (37 textiles, 79 yarns of different colors) and Quillagua (41 textiles, 95 yarns of different colors), two archeological areas in Northern Chile sustaining different plant communities. The textiles were assigned to different styles (hence to different biogeographical regions). The results showed that the degree of dispersion of colorimetric data was larger in red than in blue yarns, and did not differ between any other pair of colors, and that the degree of dispersion of colorimetric data of yarns from textiles of different styles differed significantly within yellow yarns but not within yarns of other colors. These results are discussed in terms of the nature, variety, and sources of the dyes involved and reveal the use of a limited number of yellow dyes in Northern Chile.

中文翻译:

来自智利北部基亚瓜和圣佩德罗德阿塔卡马绿洲墓地的前西班牙裔纺织品的颜色

来自安第斯中南部不同文化、时期和地区的前西班牙裔纺织品中使用的红色(蒽醌类)和蓝色(靛类)染料来源很少。黄色染料已被证明主要是类黄酮。由于类黄酮表现出广泛的颜色变化、丰富的分布取决于生物地理区域和物种特定的模式,因此预计与红色和蓝色纺织品相比,黄色染色纺织品和黄色染料来源的颜色变化更大。纺织品颜色的研究,特别是黄色与其他颜色的比较,应该阐明人与环境的关系以及纺织品原材料来源的选择过程。CIELAB 三维空间中的色度数据是从圣佩德罗德阿塔卡马(37 种纺织品,79 种不同颜色的纱线)和奎拉瓜(41 种纺织品,95 种不同颜色的纱线),两个考古区的前西班牙裔纺织品中采样的纱线获得的在智利北部维持不同的植物群落。纺织品被分配到不同的风格(因此被分配到不同的生物地理区域)。结果表明,红色纱线的色度数据分散度大于蓝色纱线,其他颜色对没有差异,不同款式的纺织品纱线色度数据的色度数据色散度差异显着。黄色纱线,但不在其他颜色的纱线内。这些结果从性质、品种、
更新日期:2021-05-22
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