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“WHITE TRASH”: GESTURES AND PROFANATIONS IN THE VISUAL ECONOMY OF FASHION
Journal of Aesthetics & Culture Pub Date : 2021-05-16 , DOI: 10.1080/20004214.2021.1886444
Roberto Filippello 1
Affiliation  

ABSTRACT

In this article, a photo story depicting “white trash” subjects in the act of defying middle-class proprieties of dress and manners serves as a case study for a critical exploration of the performative registers through which working-class bodies figure as agents of social sedition in the visual economy of fashion. The unglamorous and confrontational bodies in Memory—shot by Alexei Hay and Justine Parsons for Dutch in 2000—enact a parody of professional fashion models by exhibiting an exuberant, uncontained sexuality that cuts against the codes of “good taste” and decorum. The photo spread epitomizes how the vernacular aesthetic of “white trash” has been embraced by independent fashion magazines in order to unsettle the normative aesthetics associated with high fashion imagery and, more broadly, mainstream visual culture. Engaging with Giorgio Agamben’s reflections on gesture and profanation, the article discusses the political effect of an overperformance of corporeality through prosaic, bawdy gestures and argues that the unboundedness of the bodies in the photo spread represents an affront to the capitalist regime of productivity from which these bodies are excluded. Finally, it highlights the contribution of the aesthetic category of “white trash” to the troubling of the representational conventions within the genre of editorial fashion photography and calls for a politically committed rethinking of the aesthetic consumption of fashion images.



中文翻译:

“白色垃圾箱”:时尚视觉经济中的姿态和弊端

摘要

在这篇文章中,一个照片故事描绘了“白色垃圾”主体在违抗中产阶级的穿着和举止礼节的举动中的行为,作为案例研究,对批判性探索进行了探索,工人阶级通过这种表现形式充当了社会的推动者。时装视觉经济中的叛逆。记忆中那些毫不光彩和对抗性的身体-由Alexei Hay和Justine Parsons为荷兰人拍摄在2000年,通过表现出旺盛,无拘无束的性行为打破了“好味道”和礼节的法令,模仿了专业时装模特。这张散布的照片集中体现了独立时尚杂志如何接受“白色垃圾”的白话美学,以扰乱与高级时装图像以及更广泛的主流视觉文化相关的规范美学。文章结合乔治·阿甘本(Giorgio Agamben)对手势和亵渎的思考,讨论了平淡无奇的手势过分夸大了体性的政治影响,并论证了照片传播中身体的无限性代表着对资本主义生产力政权的侮辱。身体被排除在外。最后,

更新日期:2021-05-17
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