The UK is the largest international market for cider. Around 11 per cent of the UK market is accounted for by ‘craft’ or traditional ciders made by both small scale ‘farm’ and large-scale ‘factory’ producers. Drawing on the worlds of production framework we examine the contrasting perspectives of farm and factory producers on the geographical indication (GI) awarded to Three Counties Cider in 1996. Interviews with producers highlight commonalities of view across both groups around weak enforcement and a lack of understanding among UK consumers of geographical indications of origin. Both are thought to undermine the producer, consumer and tourism benefits of the GI. Differences of view between farm and factory producers emerge, however, about the value of the GI in protecting traditional production values and artisanal producers. This relates specifically to the permissiveness of the GI in terms of allowing non-traditional production methods more commonly associated with large-scale production. While consistent with the factory production of craft cider, farm producers argue that the allowance of non-traditional production methods reduces the value of the GI in terms of protecting food heritage and artisanal production. Our analysis emphasises the tensions implicit in the codification of heritage food products in legal instruments such as GIs and the challenges of formal heritagisation processes. Our results also suggest lessons for the UK's Protected Food Names scheme which will come into operation after Brexit and highlight the tension for those developing GIs between supporting artisanal production and protecting, the potentially more economically significant, factory-based production of traditional products.

英国是苹果酒最大的国际市场。小型“农场”和大型“工厂”生产商生产的“手工艺品”或传统苹果酒约占英国市场的11％。利用生产框架的世界，我们研究了农场和工厂生产者对1996年授予三县苹果酒的地理标志（GI）的不同看法。对生产者的访谈强调了执法不力和缺乏理解这两个群体的共同点。在英国原产地标记的消费者中。两者都被认为破坏了地理标志的生产者，消费者和旅游业利益。然而，关于地理标志在保护传统生产价值和手工生产者方面的价值，在农场和工厂生产者之间出现了意见分歧。就允许更传统地与大规模生产相关的非传统生产方法而言，这尤其与地理标志的许可有关。农场生产者认为，与传统苹果酒的工厂生产一致的是，非传统生产方法的使用降低了地理标志在保护食品传统和手工生产方面的价值。我们的分析强调了在地理标志等法律文书中对遗产食品进行编纂所隐含的紧张局势，以及正式的遗传化过程所面临的挑战。我们的结果还为英国的受保护食品名称计划提供了教训，该计划将在英国退欧后开始实施，并着重说明那些在支持手工生产和保护之间发展地理标志的地理标志之间的紧张关系。