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Observation and simulation of wind waves near a typical reef lagoon in South China Sea
Journal of Hydrodynamics ( IF 2.5 ) Pub Date : 2021-03-05 , DOI: 10.1007/s42241-021-0010-3
Ze Sun , Dao-lin Xu , Xiao-long Liu , Hai-cheng Zhang , Zhi-wen Cai

Due to the inference of the uneven shallow water seabed and the surrounding islands, the wind-generated waves around or in a reef lagoon are rather complicated, and critical to the safety of floating structures deployed near islands or inside a lagoon. This paper aims to find a feasible analysis tool for the wave simulations near islands and reefs. The proposed three methods of grid techniques of WAVEWATCH III (WW3) are assessed by using on-site measured data which was collected and accumulated for about 5 years since August 2014 by a wave observation system deployed inside and outside a reef lagoon in South China Sea. In the assessments, the wave statistics including the correlation coefficients, root mean square errors, and their variances are used to quantify the precisions of the simulation results of the significant wave heights, mean wave periods, and peak wave directions at two sites. Among the three methods, the Multi-scale Zone and Multi-scale grid Technique (MZMGT) established on unstructured triangular grids exhibits better results in terms of the accuracy and CPU cost. In addition, the bimodal feature of wave spectra was observed at both sites of the reef lagoon in different typhoon events. The wave characteristics inside the reef lagoon and open sea are also analyzed.



中文翻译:

南海典型礁湖附近风浪的观测与模拟

由于浅水海床和周围岛屿不平坦的推断,礁湖周围或之中的风浪相当复杂,对于部署在岛屿附近或泻湖内部的浮动结构的安全至关重要。本文旨在寻找一种可行的分析工具,用于岛屿和礁石附近的波浪模拟。拟议的WAVEWATCH III(WW3)网格技术的三种方法是使用现场测量数据进行评估,该数据是自2014年8月以来通过部署在南海礁湖泻湖内外的波浪观测系统收集和积累的,历时约5年。 。在评估中,使用包括相关系数,均方根误差及其方差在内的波浪统计信息来量化重要波浪高度的模拟结果的精度,平均波周期和两个地点的波峰方向。在这三种方法中,在非结构化三角网格上建立的多尺度区域和多尺度网格技术(MZMGT)在准确性和CPU成本方面表现出更好的结果。此外,在不同的台风事件中,在礁湖的两个位置都观察到了波谱的双峰特征。还分析了礁湖和公海内部的波浪特征。

更新日期:2021-03-08
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