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Dynamics of Barred Shore Profile on the Temporal Scale of a Storm Cycle
Oceanology ( IF 1 ) Pub Date : 2021-03-02 , DOI: 10.1134/s0001437020050112
I. O. Leont’yev

A model is developed to simulate the morphodynamics of a barred shore profile on the scale of a storm cycle, comprising the phases of high and low wave activity. In the CROSS-PB model, the main mechanisms governing sediment transport in wave shoaling and surf zones are taken into consideration, in particular, skewness and asymmetry of the wave orbital velocities, undertow, and infragravity oscillations associated with wave groups. By comparing calculations with observed data, it is concluded that the model correctly reproduces seaward displacement of bars during a storm and shoreward under moderate or weak wave conditions. The first process is shown to be provided by balance of transport mechanisms when the peak offshore transport is located at the front slope of bar. The second process is conditioned by dominant shoreward transport and its sharp decay over the bar crest. Testing of the model yields estimates for the calibration coefficients, and it is concluded that shoreward sediment flux is mainly controlled by wave asymmetry.



中文翻译:

风暴周期时间尺度上的禁止岸线剖面动力学

开发了一个模型来模拟风暴周期范围内禁止海岸轮廓的形态动力学,包括高波活动和低波活动的各个阶段。在CROSS-PB模型中,考虑了控制波浪浅滩和海浪区中泥沙输运的主要机制,特别是波浪轨道速度的偏斜和不对称性,波浪的拖曳以及与波浪群相关的次重力振荡。通过将计算结果与观察到的数据进行比较,可以得出结论,该模型正确地再现了在中等或弱波浪条件下,在风暴期间和向岸的钢筋向海位移。当高峰海上运输位于钢筋的前坡时,第一过程表明是由运输机制的平衡提供的。第二个过程的条件是主要的向岸运输及其在条状波峰上的急剧衰减。对模型的测试得出了校准系数的估计值,并得出结论,岸上沉积物通量主要受波浪不对称性的控制。

更新日期:2021-03-02
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