Abstract The 1928 novels, Plum Bun by Jessie Redmon Fauset and Quicksand by Nella Larsen each center on an educated, middle-class black woman navigating her fluctuating identity within American society. Both authors illuminate their heroines’ desires and frustrations within evolving, liminal urban spaces where traditional discriminatory restrictions could be tested and subverted through passing—not just through race, but also through class and gender norms. Fauset and Larsen continually highlight fashion as an essential tool for passing, as well as being the embodiment of their characters’ elusive new identities. Fauset’s Angela is a fair-complexioned Philadelphia woman whose elegant style is steeped in nineteenth-century ideals of ladylike bourgeois whiteness. It is also key in allowing her to pass as white and gain access to higher education and society. Larsen’s Helga is a biracial teacher whose interest in fashion and rejection of respectability politics alienates her from her college’s southern black bourgeoisie. She flees north in search of freer expression, yet eventually runs into the opposite extreme, manipulated and stereotyped through fashionable clothing. Fauset’s and Larsen’s narratives complicate the idea of passing as taboo and demonstrate black women’s understanding of fashion as agency to unlock new, and often uneasy, opportunities and identities.

中文翻译：

---

哈莱姆文艺复兴时期的穿着：杰西·雷德蒙·福塞特和内拉·拉森小说中的时尚

摘要 1928 年的小说，Jessie Redmon Fauset 的 Plum Bun 和 Nella Larsen 的 Quicksand 每部都围绕着一位受过教育的中产阶级黑人女性在美国社会中不断变化的身份而展开。两位作者都阐明了女主人公在不断发展的、有限制的城市空间中的欲望和挫折，在这些空间中，传统的歧视性限制可以通过穿越——不仅通过种族，还通过阶级和性别规范进行测试和颠覆。Fauset 和 Larsen 不断强调时尚是一种重要的传递工具，也是他们角色难以捉摸的新身份的体现。Fauset 笔下的 Angela 是一位肤色白皙的费城女性，她的优雅风格充满了 19 世纪资产阶级白人淑女的理想。这也是让她成为白人并获得高等教育和社会机会的关键。Larsen 的 Helga 是一位混血教师，她对时尚的兴趣和对体面政治的拒绝使她与大学的南部黑人资产阶级疏远。她逃离北方寻求更自由的表达，但最终却遇到了相反的极端，通过时尚的服装被操纵和刻板印象。Fauset 和 Larsen 的叙述使被视为禁忌的想法复杂化，并展示了黑人女性将时尚理解为能够解锁新的、通常令人不安的机会和身份的机构。但最终却遇到了相反的极端，通过时尚的服装被操纵和定型。Fauset 和 Larsen 的叙述使被视为禁忌的想法复杂化，并展示了黑人女性将时尚理解为能够解锁新的、通常令人不安的机会和身份的机构。但最终却遇到了相反的极端，通过时尚的服装被操纵和定型。Fauset 和 Larsen 的叙述使被视为禁忌的想法复杂化，并展示了黑人女性将时尚理解为能够解锁新的、通常令人不安的机会和身份的机构。