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Cookbooks and Female Writers in Late Chosŏn Korea
Seoul Journal of Korean Studies Pub Date : 2016-01-01 , DOI: 10.1353/seo.2016.0000
Ro Sang-ho

This article examines the history of Korean cookbooks and their female authors in the late Chosŏn period. Two female authors of cookbooks—Chang Kyehyang 張桂香 (1598–1680) and Yi Pinghŏgak 李憑虛閣 (1759–1824)—used letters and texts for the purpose of communication with and knowledge transmission to women, and in the process shaped an autonomous space for the female reading public. Prior to these female cookbook writers, male scholars were the sole authority on keeping records on Korean food, which they included as part of East Asian knowledge books (Ch. fang shu, K. pangsŏ 方書). In particular, male writers in the Koryŏ and early Chosŏn periods were interested in the medicinal effects of food. Called “food therapy” (singnyo 食療), the medical interest in materia medica formed the early literature on Korean food. Entering the late Chosŏn period, however, new authors appeared who approached eating culture from new angles. Rather than its medical effects, these writers emphasized the scholarly, gastronomic, and artistic value of Korean food in and of itself. With Yi Sugwang 李睟光 an important forerunner, male and female writers alike carefully recorded their recipes and created a new practical genre of Korean cookbooks. In this article, I aim to shed new light on the female production of cookbooks, which not only added the female experience of the kitchen to writing on food, but also renovated practical literature, freeing it from the domination of male writers and their methods of food coverage in knowledge books (pangsŏ) and compendiums (ch’ongsŏ 叢書). Specifically, female knowledge on food and cooking was expressed using the Korean vernacular alphabet, which was not the primary language of male-dominated knowledge books. These female-authored cookbooks—some notable examples being Ŭmsik timibang 음식디미방 (Recipes of tasty foods) and Kyuhap ch’ongsŏ 규합총서 (Home encyclopedia for women in the inner chamber)—can therefore be regarded as a cultural testing field in which Korean yangban women expanded the boundaries of their space and imagined their own concept of civility.

中文翻译:

朝鲜晚期的食谱和女作家

本文考察了朝鲜时代晚期的韩国食谱及其女性作者的历史。张桂香(1598-1680)和李凭虚阁(1759-1824)两位女性食谱作者以书信和文字为目的,以与女性交流和知识传播为目的,在这个过程中形成了一个自治女性阅读公共空间。在这些女性食谱作者之前,男性学者是记录韩国食物的唯一权威,他们将其作为东亚知识书籍的一部分(Ch. fang shu, K. pangsŏ 方书)。特别是,Koryŏ 和 Chosŏn 早期的男性作家对食物的药用效果很感兴趣。被称为“食疗”(singnyo 食疗),对本草的医学兴趣形成了韩国食品的早期文献。然而,进入后期 Chosŏn 时期,出现了从新角度探讨饮食文化的新作者。这些作家强调韩国食品本身的学术、美食和艺术价值,而不是它的医疗效果。以易素旺李睟光为重要先行者,男女作家都仔细记录了他们的食谱,开创了韩国食谱的新实用体裁。在这篇文章中,我旨在为女性制作烹饪书提供新的视角,它不仅将厨房的女性体验添加到食物写作中,而且还翻新了实用文学,使其摆脱了男性作家及其创作方法的统治。知识书籍(pangsŏ)和纲要(ch'ongsŏ丛书)中的食物报道。具体来说,女性对食物和烹饪的知识是使用韩国白话字母表达的,这不是男性主导的知识书籍的主要语言。这些由女性撰写的食谱——其中一些著名的例子是 Ŭmsik timibang 음식디미방(美味食物的食谱)和 Kyuhap ch'ongsŏ 규합총서(内室女性家庭百科全书)——因此可以被视为一个文化测试领域,其中韩国两半女性拓展了自己的空间界限,构想了自己的文明理念。
更新日期:2016-01-01
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