Abstract Artisan cheese enthusiasts often celebrate the preservation of tradition, while the marketplace in heritage foods pays a premium for products cast as traditional. But ethnographic research with cheesemakers revealed a complex dynamic between continuity and change. Practices that some considered essential to tradition were considered dispensable—even problematic—by others. While external forces compelled some changes, cheesemakers voluntarily—sometimes enthusiastically—embraced others. Cheesemakers sometimes saw new technologies as means of enhancing product quality, consumer safety, environmental sustainability, animal welfare or even crafting practice itself. Those dispensing with elements of tradition often saw doing so as essential to preserving other elements and, hence, continuity was sometimes the very justification for change. This article explores the varied ways in which artisan cheesemakers reconcile innovation and the conservation of tradition, and reveals the inventiveness of those who sustain “living traditions”.

中文翻译：

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工艺创新：当代工匠奶酪制造商“生活传统”的延续和变化

摘要 工匠奶酪爱好者经常庆祝对传统的保护，而传统食品市场为传统产品支付溢价。但是对奶酪制造商的人种学研究揭示了连续性和变化之间的复杂动态。有些人认为对传统至关重要的做法被其他人认为是可有可无的——甚至是有问题的。虽然外部力量迫使一些改变，但奶酪制造商自愿——有时是热情地——拥抱其他人。奶酪制造商有时将新技术视为提高产品质量、消费者安全、环境可持续性、动物福利甚至制作实践本身的手段。那些摒弃传统元素的人通常认为这样做对于保留其他元素是必不可少的，因此，连续性有时是变革的真正理由。