Abstract

This article investigates a fashion trend during the first half of the 2010’s for a garment that looked little like the indigenous kimono, was often designed and manufactured in centers other than Japan and was largely intended for consumption outside of Japan, but none-the-less was marketed as kimono. Rather than reflecting on the ways in which this trend could be viewed as another example of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry or demonstrative of the fashion industry’s attempt to maximize profit by flooding the market with endless variations of these garments that resonate rather tired Orientalized stereotypes, this article examines how the ways in which the kimono has been transformed as it moves through time and across borders resonate with this trend and seeks to better understand the political, social, cultural and economic drivers behind such transformations. It also brings to light new developments in this garment’s cultural meanings.

摘要

这篇文章调查了 2010 年上半年的一种时尚趋势，一种看起来与本土和服很不一样的服装，通常在日本以外的中心设计和制造，主要用于日本以外的消费，但仍然如此作为和服销售。与其反思这种趋势如何被视为时尚产业中文化挪用的另一个例子，或者表明时尚产业试图通过向市场充斥这些与相当疲惫的东方化刻板印象产生共鸣的无穷无尽变化的服装来实现利润最大化，本文探讨了和服随着时间的推移和跨越国界的变化方式如何与这一趋势产生共鸣，并试图更好地理解政治、社会、这种转变背后的文化和经济驱动力。它还揭示了这种服装文化意义的新发展。