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“Whether Witches Can by Some Glamour Change Men into Beasts”: Wit and the Seductive Glamour of Fashion
Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2019-11-28 , DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2019.1689652
Dita Svelte

Glamour is usually theorized within fashion studies as a visual illusion, distant and unattainable, often associated with celebrity elites. Yet glamour also possesses a power of attraction and fascination that could also be described as a form of seduction. How might an idea of seduction inform our understanding of the glamour of fashion? Using an empirical example of a camouflage couture dress by Jean-Paul Gaultier as a point of departure, I will explicate an unusual and interdisciplinary historical text — the notorious witch-hunting bible, the Malleus Maleficarum—to elaborate a theory of glamour as systemic, powerful, and immersive. Furthermore, this theory of glamour is predicated on a seductive form of wit. I will draw on Jean Baudrillard’s Seduction, which itself connects seduction and wit to the glamour of fashion, to argue that it is precisely a concept of wit that might allow us to conceptualize the glamour of fashion not as an unattainable illusion, but as an immersive, powerful and effective phenomenon. This revised definition of glamour possesses important implications for how we might think fashion itself.



中文翻译:

“女巫是否可以通过一些魅力将男人变成野兽”:机智与时尚的诱惑魅力

在时尚研究中,魅力通常被理论化为一种视觉错觉,遥不可及,通常与名人精英联系在一起。然而 魅力 也 具有 一种 吸引 和 着迷 的 力量 , 也 可以 被 描述 为 一种诱惑形式. 诱惑的概念如何影响我们对时尚魅力的理解?以让-保罗·高缇耶 (Jean-Paul Gaultier)的迷彩高级定制礼服为例,我将阐释一段不同寻常的跨学科历史文本——臭名昭著的猎巫圣经,《Malleus Maleficarum 》 ——以系统性阐述魅力理论,功能强大,身临其境。此外,这种魅力理论是建立在一种诱人的机智形式之上的。. 我将借鉴让·鲍德里亚 (Jean Baudrillard) 的《诱惑》( Seduction ),它本身将诱惑和机智与时尚的魅力联系起来,论证正是机智的概念可以让我们将时尚的魅力概念化为一种无法实现的幻觉,而是一种身临其境的体验。 ,强大而有效的现象。这个修订后的魅力定义对我们如何看待时尚本身具有重要意义。

更新日期:2019-11-28
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