Abstract

This research focuses on fashion cycles of punk merchandising interacting with the mainstream. Punks’ perceptions of subcultural styles change as the garments move through cycles internal to the scene, and as the looks are disseminated into mainstream society, furthermore as the individuals age. The framework for this study is the entirety of the punk movement in North America: Punks self-identified within the movement without boundaries of time and definition, and therefore the time frame stretches from the 1970s to present day. Data were gathered from self-identified punks in the United States through qualitative mixed methods including an online survey of open ended questions, in-person interviews, archive visits, and social media discussion groups. Findings indicate that over time as the underground punk styles move into mass usage the subcultural silhouettes, or general shape of the garments follow bell curve fashion cycles with little objection from original punk wearers. However, when it comes to punk symbols, such as band logos or iconic in-scene pictorial references, this same progression through fashion cycles tends to be met with resistance from former and current subcultural members. Many punks maintain feelings of attachment to subcultural symbols as they grow older and go through their personal life and stylistic cycles, yet they are more comfortable relinquishing the shapes of subcultural garments to the masses. This research highlights the complications of insular cultures who influence the mainstream and addresses concepts of aesthetics, merchandising, authenticity, and appropriation using punk style as a way to consider design communicating identity and community.

摘要

这项研究的重点是朋克商品与主流互动的时尚周期。朋克对亚文化风格的看法会随着服装在场景内部的循环变化以及外观在主流社会中的传播以及个人年龄的增长而发生变化。本研究的框架是整个北美朋克运动：朋克在运动中自我认同，没有时间和定义的界限，因此时间框架从 1970 年代延伸到今天。数据是通过定性混合方法从美国自我认同的朋克中收集的，包括开放式问题的在线调查、面对面采访、档案访问和社交媒体讨论组。调查结果表明，随着地下朋克风格进入大众使用，亚文化轮廓或服装的一般形状遵循钟形曲线时尚周期，而原始朋克穿着者几乎没有反对。然而，当谈到朋克符号时，例如乐队标志或标志性的现场图片参考，时尚周期中的同样进展往往会遇到来自前任和现任亚文化成员的抵制。许多朋克随着年龄的增长，经历了他们的个人生活和风格循环，对亚文化符号保持着依恋的感觉，但他们更愿意将亚文化服装的形状交给大众。这项研究突出了影响主流的孤立文化的复杂性，并解决了美学、商品销售、真实性、