Abstract This paper explores the role played by female perceptions of garment quality in relation to how long clothing is kept and how it is used. It considers perceptions of quality in relation to implications for sustainability in fashion. The research involves two phases of empirical data collection conducted in the UK. The first phase draws on a subset of findings from a 12-month laundry study that surveyed the use and laundering of 32 different garments across a group of 16 women. The second phase comprises a semi-structured interview study with 13 women and focuses on exploring factors that influence garment lifetimes. The central contributions of this paper are the distinctions it makes between the immediate concepts of clothing quality that are understood as “pre-use” to those more gradually developed experiences of quality learnt “during use.” In use, garments are tied into user practices and as such become woven into the actions and experiences of everyday life. The length of time garments are worn and kept is more closely connected to how quality is experienced subjectively by the user than understood within objective industry-based definitions of quality. In relation to sustainability, this suggests new directions for understanding quality with emphasis on user behavior.

中文翻译：

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服装质量和可持续性：基于用户的方法

摘要 本文探讨了女性对服装质量的看法与服装的保存时间和使用方式有关的作用。它考虑了与时尚可持续性影响相关的质量认知。该研究涉及在英国进行的经验数据收集的两个阶段。第一阶段借鉴了一项为期 12 个月的洗衣研究的一部分结果，该研究调查了 16 名女性的 32 种不同服装的使用和洗涤情况。第二阶段包括对 13 名女性的半结构化访谈研究，重点是探索影响服装使用寿命的因素。本文的主要贡献是它区分了被理解为“使用前”的服装质量的直接概念与“使用中”学习到的那些逐渐发展的质量体验之间的区别。在使用中，服装与用户的习惯联系在一起，并因此融入日常生活的行为和体验中。与基于行业的客观质量定义相比，穿着和保存服装的时间长度与用户对质量的主观体验更密切相关。关于可持续性，这为理解质量并强调用户行为提出了新的方向。与基于行业的客观质量定义相比，穿着和保存服装的时间长度与用户主观体验质量的方式更密切相关。关于可持续性，这为理解质量并强调用户行为提出了新的方向。与基于行业的客观质量定义相比，穿着和保存服装的时间长度与用户主观体验质量的方式更密切相关。关于可持续性，这为理解质量并强调用户行为提出了新的方向。