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From the design of the shades to the sale of make‐up products: The contribution of the expertise of colorists during research and development
Color Research and Application ( IF 1.4 ) Pub Date : 2021-02-09 , DOI: 10.1002/col.22628
Hélène Clermont‐Gallerande 1
Affiliation  

At CHANEL, color is both a heritage and a source of innovation that allows them to offer approximately 350 new shades every year. The designer who creates a seasonal make‐up collection determines the shades one and a half year before the collection is launched. The inspiration is then translated into a “brief,” that is, into “words” and material samples. This must be accurate so that the scientists can transpose the colors as faithfully as possible. The colorists' work begins 15 months before the launch: Tone, undertone, opacity, brightness, and reflection. Each developed color is studied in its colorimetric composition to meet the target. Then every needed pigment proportion is determined to achieve the shade. Depending on the final application area, regulatory constraints linked to the chemical nature of the pigments present in the formula must be taken into consideration. All references are validated no later than 12 months before launch. A visual and spectrocolorimetric measurements are carried out to establish the industrial specifications for the manufacturing phase. The pilot phase focuses on the impact of the (manufactured) color quantity increase. The quality laboratory uses visual and instrumental methods to establish the conformity of supplier's pigments and finished products manufactured. Architectural design is used to showcase the color at the point of sale. During the whole process, the colorists will check and validate the colors reproducibility. Their skills are essential in make‐up industry.

中文翻译:

从阴影设计到彩妆产品销售:调色师的专业知识在研发过程中的贡献

在香奈儿,色彩既是传统又是创新的源泉,它使他们每年可以提供约350种新色调。创建季节性化妆系列的设计师会在发布系列一年半之前确定色调。然后将灵感转化为“简要说明”,即翻译为“文字”和示例材料。这必须是准确的,以便科学家可以尽可能忠实地转换颜色。调色师的工作在发布前15个月开始:色调,底色,不透明度,亮度和反射。研究每种显色的色度组成,以达到目标。然后确定每种所需的颜料比例以达到阴影。根据最终应用领域,必须考虑与配方中存在的颜料的化学性质有关的法规限制。所有参考资料都必须在发布前的12个月内得到验证。进行视觉和比色法测量以建立制造阶段的工业规格。试点阶段着重于(制造的)颜色数量增加的影响。质量实验室使用视觉和仪器方法来确定供应商的颜料和制成品的一致性。建筑设计用于在销售点展示颜色。在整个过程中,调色师将检查并验证颜色的可再现性。他们的技能在彩妆行业中至关重要。所有参考资料都必须在发布前的12个月内得到验证。进行视觉和比色法测量以建立制造阶段的工业规格。试点阶段着重于(制造的)颜色数量增加的影响。质量实验室使用视觉和仪器方法来确定供应商的颜料和制成品的一致性。建筑设计用于在销售点展示颜色。在整个过程中,调色师将检查并验证颜色的可再现性。他们的技能在彩妆行业中至关重要。所有参考资料都必须在发布前的12个月内得到验证。进行视觉和比色法测量以建立制造阶段的工业规格。试点阶段着重于(制造的)颜色数量增加的影响。质量实验室使用视觉和仪器方法来确定供应商的颜料和制成品的一致性。建筑设计用于在销售点展示颜色。在整个过程中,调色师将检查并验证颜色的可再现性。他们的技能在彩妆行业中至关重要。试点阶段着重于(制造的)颜色数量增加的影响。质量实验室使用视觉和仪器方法来确定供应商的颜料和制成品的一致性。建筑设计用于在销售点展示颜色。在整个过程中,调色师将检查并验证颜色的可再现性。他们的技能在彩妆行业中至关重要。试点阶段着重于(制造的)颜色数量增加的影响。质量实验室使用视觉和仪器方法来确定供应商的颜料和制成品的一致性。建筑设计用于在销售点展示颜色。在整个过程中,调色师将检查并验证颜色的可再现性。他们的技能在彩妆行业中至关重要。
更新日期:2021-04-13
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