Short-term beach morphodynamics are typically modelled solely through storm-induced erosion, disregarding post-storm recovery. Yet, the full cycle of beach profile response is critical to simulating and understanding morphodynamics over longer temporal scales. The XBeach model is calibrated using topographic profiles from a reflective beach (Faro Beach, in S. Portugal) during and after the incidence of a fierce storm (Emma) that impacted the area in early 2018. Recovery in all three profiles showed rapid steepening of the beachface and significant recovery of eroded volumes (68–92%) within 45 days after the storm, while berm heights reached 4.5–5 m. Two calibration parameters were used (facua and bermslope), considering two sets of values, one for erosive (Hm0 ≥ 3 m) and one for accretive (Hm0 < 3 m) conditions. A correction of the runup height underestimation by the model in surfbeat mode was necessary to reproduce the measured berm elevation and morphology during recovery. Simulated profiles effectively capture storm erosion, but also berm growth and gradual recovery of the profiles, showing good skill in all three profiles and recovery phases. These experiments will be the basis to formulate event-scale simulations using schematized wave forcing that will allow to calibrate the model for longer-term changes.

中文翻译：

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模拟陡峭海滩的破坏性和建设性形态动力学过程

短期海滩形态动力学通常仅通过风暴诱发的侵蚀来建模，而不考虑风暴后的恢复。然而，海滩剖面响应的整个周期对于模拟和理解较长时间尺度上的形态动力学至关重要。XBeach模型是在2018年初猛烈风暴（Emma）袭击该地区期间和之后，使用反射海滩（葡萄牙南部的法罗海滩）的地形剖面进行校准的。这三个剖面的恢复均显示出该区域的陡峭度暴风雨发生后45天内，海滩面和侵蚀体积显着恢复（68–92％），而护堤高度达到4.5–5 m。使用了两个校准参数（facua和bermslope），请考虑两组值，一组用于侵蚀性（Hm0≥3 m），另一组用于增生（Hm0 <3 m）条件。为了在恢复过程中重现测得的护坡高程和形态，必须在冲浪模式下对模型的抬高高度低估进行校正。模拟的剖面有效地捕获了暴风雨的侵蚀，还捕获了坡的生长和剖面的逐渐恢复，在所有三个剖面和恢复阶段均显示出了出色的技能。这些实验将成为使用模式化的波强迫制定事件规模模拟的基础，该波次强迫将允许为长期变化校准模型。