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Meat Mimesis
Osiris ( IF 0.5 ) Pub Date : 2020-08-01 , DOI: 10.1086/709259
Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft

This article examines an emerging form of contemporary food biotechnology, laboratory-grown or “cultured” meat, that often seeks to copy conventional “in vivo” animal flesh by using in vitro techniques. The ultimate goal of cultured meat research is to devise an alternative to the environmentally damaging and ethically undesirable infrastructure that makes “cheap” industrial-scale meat possible. Formal research into cultured meat has been underway since the early 2000s. However, after almost two decades of experiments, it is still unclear if this avenue of research will produce a viable meat product at scale, or if it is even possible to perfectly copy the physical characteristics of in vivo meat. There are technical limitations on scientists’ ability to reproduce the precise textures, tastes, and overall “mouthfeel” of familiar types of meat gleaned through butchery. Cultured meat proceeds from a premise we might call “biological equivalency,” the view that animal cells grown in a bioreactor will have the same characteristics as their in vivo counterparts, and it breaks from a standing approach in food science that we might call “sensorial equivalency,” which seeks to reproduce not meat itself but rather the sensory experience of eating meat, usually starting with a substrate of plant cells. This article, which draws from five years of ethnographic fieldwork in the cultured meat movement, seeks to illuminate not only the historical but also the philosophical questions raised by efforts to copy meat. Drawing on the work of the intellectual historian Hans Blumenberg, this article concludes with an exploration of mimesis itself, understood as the imitation of nature.

中文翻译:

肉类模仿

本文研究了当代食品生物技术的一种新兴形式,即实验室培育的或“培养的”肉类,它通常试图通过使用体外技术来复制传统的“体内”动物肉。人造肉研究的最终目标是设计一种替代方案,以替代破坏环境且不符合伦理道德的基础设施,从而使“廉价”的工业规模肉类成为可能。自 2000 年代初以来,对培养肉的正式研究一直在进行中。然而,经过近二十年的实验,目前尚不清楚这种研究途径是否能大规模生产出可行的肉制品,或者是否有可能完美复制体内肉的物理特性。科学家再现精确质地、味道、通过屠宰场收集到的熟悉的肉类的整体“口感”。培养肉源于我们可能称之为“生物等效性”的前提,即在生物反应器中生长的动物细胞将具有与其体内对应物相同的特征的观点,它打破了食品科学中我们可能称之为“感官”的常设方法。等效性”,它寻求的不是复制肉本身,而是复制吃肉的感官体验,通常从植物细胞的基质开始。这篇文章借鉴了在养殖肉类运动中进行的五年民族志田野调查,旨在阐明复制肉类的努力所引发的历史问题和哲学问题。本文借鉴知识分子历史学家汉斯·布卢门伯格 (Hans Blumenberg) 的著作,以对拟态本身的探索结束,
更新日期:2020-08-01
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