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Making the Vietnamese áo dài tunic national heritage: fashion travel through tradition, colonialism, modernity
International Journal of Heritage Studies ( IF 1.692 ) Pub Date : 2020-11-01 , DOI: 10.1080/13527258.2020.1836503
Tran Thi Phuong Hoa 1
Affiliation  

ABSTRACT

The article presents a (meta-)historical approach to the process of heritagising the Vietnamese áo dài tunic, a fashion of modern times that is embraced as a symbol of Vietnam’s feminine beauty and cultural identity. What evolves around áo dài prompts a process of ‘making heritage’, envisioned as a cycle of memorialisation stemming from the point the áo dài was considered an expression of feminist ideology in the context of urban modernisation with the expansion of feminine space in Hanoi in the mid-1930s. Images of the áo dài play an important role in memories of the revolutionary uprising in August 1945 and of the war period. Once ideologically dismissed as associated with colonialism and the bourgeoisie, the áo dài is now promoted as a national symbol when such ideological distinctions become blurred. Drawing on literary sources (novels, short stories, poems, published memoirs) and media (newspapers, magazines) sources, I offer a sketch of changes from modernising Hanoi in the 1930s up to the post-Reform period, when memories and the mystique around the áo dài came to embody national pride and identity as a form of vernacular heritage.



中文翻译:

使越南 áo dài 束腰外衣成为民族遗产:穿越传统、殖民主义和现代的时尚之旅

摘要

这篇文章提出了一种(元)历史方法来传承越南áo dài束腰外衣,这是一种现代时尚,被视为越南女性美和文化身份的象征。围绕着áo dài 的演变促使了一个“创造遗产”的过程,被设想为一个纪念循环,起源于áo dài被认为是城市现代化背景下女性主义意识形态的表达,以及河内女性空间的扩张。 1930 年代中期。áo dài 的图像在 1945 年 8 月革命起义和战争时期的记忆中发挥着重要作用。曾经在意识形态上被认为与殖民主义和资产阶级有关的áo dài当这种意识形态的区别变得模糊时,它现在被提升为国家象征。我利用文学资源(小说、短篇小说、诗歌、出版的回忆录)和媒体(报纸、杂志)资源,概述了从 1930 年代的河内现代化到改革后时期的变化,那时的记忆和周围的神秘感在奥黛来体现民族自豪感和身份,乡土建筑遗产的一种形式。

更新日期:2020-11-01
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