This article explores the links between habit, fashion and subjectification to extend analysis of the clothed body beyond the semiotic frames that have tended to dominate discussions of fashion across the social sciences and humanities. Our goal is to explain how fashion’s diverse materialities participate in the modulations of subjectivity, affecting bodies in diverse encounters between matter, signs and practices. We develop our analysis by way of Gilles Deleuze’s discussion of encounters, habit and memory. Our principal contention is that fashion may usefully be theorised in terms of specific habits of coordination by which affects, memories, sensations and desires are transmitted between bodies in varied spatial, temporal, material and affective encounters. Following the work of John Protevi, we argue that such coordination expresses a distinctive mode of subjectification according to the specific encounters immanent to it. We ground this discussion in detailed analysis of the work of Melbourne artist Fiona Abicare. Abicare’s installation and performance-based practice invokes the affective and habitual aspects of fashion as each is instantiated in encounters between bodies. Abicare’s attention to the habits and memories of the clothed body alludes to the varied practices of subjectification by which diverse subjects of fashion emerge.

中文翻译：

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时尚体与主体性的塑造

本文探讨了习惯、时尚和主观化之间的联系，将衣着身体的分析扩展到符号学框架之外，这些符号框架往往主导着社会科学和人文科学的时尚讨论。我们的目标是解释时尚的多样化物质如何参与主体性的调制，在物质、符号和实践之间的不同遭遇中影响身体。我们通过吉尔·德勒兹 (Gilles Deleuze) 对遭遇、习惯和记忆的讨论来展开我们的分析。我们的主要论点是，时尚可以根据特定的协调习惯进行理论化，通过这种习惯，情感、记忆、感觉和欲望在不同的空间、时间、物质和情感接触中的身体之间传递。继约翰·普罗泰维 (John Protevi) 的工作之后，我们认为，根据内在的特定遭遇，这种协调表达了一种独特的主体化模式。我们以对墨尔本艺术家 Fiona Abicare 作品的详细分析为基础进行了讨论。Abicare 的装置和基于表演的实践唤起了时尚的情感和习惯方面，因为每一个方面都在身体之间的相遇中被实例化。Abicare 对穿着衣服的身体的习惯和记忆的关注暗示了不同的主题化实践，不同的时尚主题由此而出现。Abicare 的装置和基于表演的实践唤起了时尚的情感和习惯方面，因为每一个方面都在身体之间的相遇中被实例化。Abicare 对穿着衣服的身体的习惯和记忆的关注暗示了不同的主题化实践，不同的时尚主题由此而出现。Abicare 的装置和基于表演的实践唤起了时尚的情感和习惯方面，因为每一个方面都在身体之间的相遇中被实例化。Abicare 对穿着衣服的身体的习惯和记忆的关注暗示了不同的主题化实践，不同的时尚主题由此而出现。