ABSTRACT

The effect of different dyeing temperatures on the properties of cashmere fibers was characterized and discussed in detail in this research. The influence of dyeing processes on fiber morphology, mechanical properties and chemical characteristics was investigated by using FTIR, SEM, EDS, DFE, alkali solubility, etc. Due to dyeing, the mechanical properties and DFE of cashmere fibers decreased while the alkali solubility increased. The SEM images showed that the high-temperature dyeing caused greater damage to the fiber surface than that of the low-temperature dyeing, which was consistent with the test results of DFE and alkali solubility. The new bands at 1127 and 1042 cm-1 that appeared in FTIR clearly showed the destruction of disulfide bonds. Furthermore, EDS results substantiated that the different amounts of increase of sulfur on different dyed cashmere fibers. From the results obtained, it can be concluded that the change of dyeing temperature had obvious effect on the properties of cashmere fibers, and that the dyeing process at a lower temperature was very significant to reduce the cashmere fibers damage.

摘要

在这项研究中，对不同染色温度对羊绒纤维性能的影响进行了表征和详细讨论。利用FTIR，SEM，EDS，DFE，碱溶度等方法研究了染色工艺对纤维形态，力学性能和化学特性的影响。由于染色，羊绒纤维的力学性能和DFE降低，而碱溶度增加。SEM图像表明，高温染色比低温染色对纤维表面的破坏更大，这与DFE和碱溶性的测试结果一致。FTIR中出现的1127和1042 cm-1处的新谱带清楚地表明了二硫键的破坏。此外，EDS结果证实，不同染色羊绒纤维上硫的增加量不同。从得到的结果可以得出结论，染色温度的变化对羊绒纤维的性能有明显的影响，并且在较低温度下的染色过程对于减少羊绒纤维的损害非常重要。