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A Laboratory Experiment of Rip Currents between the Ends of Breaking Wave Crests
Coastal Engineering ( IF 4.4 ) Pub Date : 2021-03-01 , DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103812
Junwoo Choi , Min Roh

abstract In order to investigate the rip current formed between the ends of breaking wave crests, a laboratory experiment was conducted over a bathymetry with an equilibrium profile. For the experiment, pseudo intersecting wave trains were produced in a wave basin, where regular waves were generated by running two parts of wave maker out of phase. The pseudo intersecting wave trains were compared with the intersecting wave trains, which are formed by the interference of two wave trains with slightly different directions and are the cause of the rip current, by conducting numerical simulations using FUNWAVE. The rip current developments between the ends of breaking wave crests through their node regions were confirmed similarly in both numerical simulations. In the hydraulic experiment using the pseudo intersecting wave trains, the rip current flow was observed by utilizing Large Scale Particle Image Velocimetry and Acoustic Doppler Velocimetry, and the wave height and the mean surface were measured. From the observations, it was confirmed that the rip current was developed through the node region with relatively low wave height, and it was found that its strength was varied by the refraction and dissipation of the ends of wave crests due to the wave-current interaction. The horizontal and vertical velocity profiles of the rip current were presented in the present experiment. The comparison between the measured results and the numerical results showed a reasonable agreement, however, also confirmed the limitation of the numerical model on breaking and mixing process. Using particle trajectories, it was observed that vortices were developed at the ends of breaking wave crests, which played a role of generating and accelerating the rip current.

中文翻译:

破碎波峰端间裂隙流的实验室试验

摘要 为了研究破碎波峰两端之间形成的裂口电流,在具有平衡剖面的测深仪上进行了一项实验室实验。在实验中,在波盆中产生了伪相交波列,其中通过使造波器的两个部分异相运行来产生规则波。通过使用 FUNWAVE 进行数值模拟,将伪交叉波列与交叉波列进行了比较,交叉波列是由两个方向略有不同的波列干扰而形成的,是裂口电流的原因。在两个数值模拟中类似地证实了通过其节点区域的破碎波峰末端之间的裂口流发展。在使用伪交叉波列的水力实验中,利用大尺度粒子图像测速仪和声学多普勒测速仪观察裂口流,并测量波高和平均表面。观察证实裂口流是通过波高相对较低的节点区域发展起来的,并且发现其强度随波峰末端的折射和消散而变化,这是由于波流相互作用. 本实验给出了裂口流的水平和垂直速度剖面。实测结果与数值结果的比较显示出合理的一致性,但也证实了数值模型对破碎和混合过程的局限性。使用粒子轨迹,
更新日期:2021-03-01
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