Purpose

The purpose of study is to investigate effectiveness of pattern technique in relation to the use of anthropometric references for drafting women's basic bodice patterns by assessing characteristics of pattern formation, quantification of wearing ease on the transverse plan and actual ease distribution on body forms.

Design/methodology/approach

Three pattern drafting techniques were analyzed, which have different frequency of using direct body measurements for pattern formulation. Ease quantification and wearing ease distribution were evaluated on the two different body forms: a young female body and a heavy woman body. Women's basic bodice patterns were drafted with YUKA CAD and virtually draped on the two body forms with CLO 3D. Rapidform was used to evaluate garment appearance. Areal ease and its distribution were assessed. A deviation map was used for wrinkle analysis.

Findings

Compared to the pattern formation derived from few anthropometric references, patterns using sufficient anthropometric references provided overall better fit for the different body forms. Ease distribution without considering body arcs was found to be a cause of garment fit problems. Patterns with little or no ease caused transverse fine wrinkles and skewed side seams. Pattern techniques those used linear equations caused problems on the bust because the formulation could not reflect bust protrusions in relation to the body torso shape differences.

Originality/value

This study revealed characteristics of pattern formulae and linear equations in relation to anthropometric references and body shapes. The findings may be effective in developing algorithm of the customized pattern formation in the industry.

中文翻译：

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与人体测量参考有关的女性基本紧身胸衣形成特征

目的

该研究的目的是通过评估图案形成的特征，在横向平面上对穿着舒适度的量化以及在身体形态上的实际舒适度分布，来研究与人体测量学参考相关的图案技术在起草女性基本紧身胸衣方面的有效性。

设计/方法/方法

分析了三种模式起草技术，这些技术使用直接人体测量来进行模式制定的频率有所不同。在两种不同的身体形式上评估了舒适度量化和穿着舒适度分布：一个年轻的女性身体和一个沉重的女性身体。妇女的基本紧身胸衣图案是使用YUKA CAD绘制的，而实际上使用CLO 3D覆盖了这两种身体形状。Rapidform用于评估服装外观。评估了地域舒适度及其分布。偏差图用于皱纹分析。

发现

与从很少的人体测量参考中得出的图案形成相比，使用足够的人体测量参考中的图案可为不同的身体形式提供更好的整体适应性。发现没有考虑身体弧度的缓和分布是服装合身问题的原因。很少或没有缓解的花纹会引起横向细皱纹和偏斜的侧缝。那些使用线性方程式的图案技术在胸围上造成了问题，因为该配方无法反映出与身体躯干形状差异有关的胸围突起。

创意/价值

这项研究揭示了与人体测量参考和身体形状有关的模式公式和线性方程式的特征。该发现可能在开发行业中定制图案形成的算法方面是有效的。