Abstract This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The experiments were performed using monochromatic waves and a linearly sloping bed. The results show that offshore wind conditions delay wave breaking and promote steep breakers, while onshore wind conditions extend the surf zone and flatten the waves. Firstly, linear and cnoidal wave models were used in standard formulations to predict the cross-shore wave evolution under no-wind conditions. Secondly, wind effect was added to account for wind-induced modifications of breaker height and energy balance. Despite experimental limitations, the overall satisfactory agreement between theory and observations suggests that such an approach can be used to describe the wind effect in wave nearshore models.

中文翻译：

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陆上和海上风力条件下冲浪区动力学的实验室实验

摘要 本文介绍了详细的实验室实验，研究了陆上和海上风力条件对近岸波浪动力学（包括极端风）的影响。使用单色波和线性倾斜床进行实验。结果表明，海上风况延迟了波浪破碎并促进了陡峭的破碎带，而陆上风况扩大了冲浪区并使波浪变平。首先，在标准公式中使用线性和 cnoidal 波浪模型来预测无风条件下的跨岸波浪演变。其次，增加了风效应以考虑风引起的断路器高度和能量平衡的改变。尽管有实验限制，