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(Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics
Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology ( IF 5 ) Pub Date : 2020-10-05 , DOI: 10.1007/s00253-020-10936-x
Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome , Nadia Ruscinc , Renata Miliani Martinez , João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho , Tânia Santos de Almeida , Catarina Rosado , João Guilherme Costa , Maria Valéria Robles Velasco , André Rolim Baby

Abstract

Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, β-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics.

Key points

• Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled.

• Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments.

• Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.



中文翻译:

化妆品微藻颜料的(生物)技术方面

摘要

光合微生物将二氧化碳和太阳辐射转化为尚未完全探索的有趣的生物活性化合物。已知有几种微藻富含有色的高价值成分,这些成分虽然引人注目,但作为化妆品的天然色素来源却很少被开发。与光合作用相关的色素包括叶绿素,β-胡萝卜素,虾青素,叶黄素和藻胆蛋白,其中许多由于其抗氧化剂,增强免疫力和抗发炎的特性而具有很高的美容活性。在过去的十年中,人们开始关注年轻,美丽的外表,这促使许多消费者每天使用抗衰老化妆品。结果,化妆品市场一直在增长并迅速发展以满足消费者的期望。然而,由于经常使用和面部皮肤的敏感性,经常会发生局部不良反应,例如刺激,敏化或光反应,因此在上市前必须进行安全性评估。因此,可以理解的是,来自自然资源的新活性物质(例如微藻)被视为对寻求没有致敏潜力的成分的消费者的有吸引力的替代品。因此,化妆品工业最近开始探索在创新配方中包含从微藻和蓝细菌提取的化合物。在此,我们修改了非传统微藻物种,用于化妆品生产中的颜料生产,表明那些也可以被认为是创新化妆品潜在成分的物种。例如刺激性,敏化性或光反应性,并且在上市之前必须进行安全性评估。因此,可以理解的是,来自自然资源的新活性物质(例如微藻)被视为对寻求没有致敏潜力的成分的消费者的有吸引力的替代品。因此,化妆品工业最近开始探索在创新配方中包含从微藻和蓝细菌提取的化合物。在此,我们修改了非传统微藻物种,用于化妆品生产中的颜料生产,表明那些也可以被认为是创新化妆品潜在成分的物种。例如刺激性,敏化性或光反应性,并且在上市之前必须进行安全性评估。因此,可以理解的是,来自自然资源的新活性物质(例如微藻)被视为对寻求没有致敏潜力的成分的消费者的有吸引力的替代品。因此,化妆品工业最近开始探索在创新配方中包含从微藻和蓝细菌提取的化合物。在此,我们修改了非传统微藻物种,用于化妆品生产中的颜料生产,表明那些也可以被认为是创新化妆品潜在成分的物种。对于寻求没有致敏潜力的成分的消费者而言,它们被视为有吸引力的替代品。因此,化妆品工业最近开始探索在创新配方中包含从微藻和蓝细菌提取的化合物。在此,我们修改了非传统微藻物种,用于化妆品生产中的颜料生产,表明那些也可以被认为是创新化妆品潜在成分的物种。对于寻求没有致敏潜力的成分的消费者而言,它们被视为有吸引力的替代品。因此,化妆品工业最近开始探索在创新配方中包含从微藻和蓝细菌提取的化合物。在此,我们修改了非传统微藻物种,用于化妆品生产中的颜料生产,表明那些也可以被认为是创新化妆品潜在成分的物种。

关键点

•编写了从光合微生物中提取色素的方法。

•可以用天然色素开发创新的药妆品。

•还描述了此类天然颜料的安全性。

更新日期:2020-10-05
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