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On the interaction between partially-reflected waves and an opposing wind
Coastal Engineering ( IF 4.4 ) Pub Date : 2020-12-01 , DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103774
F. Addona , L. Chiapponi , M. Clavero , M.A. Losada , S. Longo

Abstract Air-sea interaction is a relevant topic with still many open questions, also in consideration of the numerous and complex scenarios that occur in nature. In this manuscript we report an experimental study of partially-reflected regular (long) waves under the action of an opposite wind, which generates short wind-waves (wind generated water waves, WGW). Wind blows against the incident wave, and therefore it is in the same direction as the reflected wave. Regular waves are generated by a paddle and are defined as mechanically generated water waves (MGW). MGW and WGW are separated by a spectral filtering technique, and free surface statistics of wave height, period and steepness are studied. The spatial variation induced by partial reflection of MGW (generated by paddles) is experimentally observed and theoretically described, and the effects of wind on reflection parameters are observed and examined. A phase-conditional analysis of wind-waves statistics, separating crest and trough, and upwind and downwind sides, reveals the importance of the local wind forcing, and captures features of the wind-waves modulated by the longer waves which are not detected with standard statistical analyses. The phase celerity of the wind-waves is analysed including the effects of the wind-induced shear current and the non-inertial effects of the MGW; to the best of our knowledge, this last effect experimental analysis is novel. The study is relevant to characterize the wave field in front of coastal structures and beaches under swell and wind waves (co-linear in the same, and in the opposite direction) conditions, affecting run-up, overtopping and mean quantities modulated by the dynamics of group of waves.

中文翻译:

关于部分反射波与逆风之间的相互作用

摘要 考虑到自然界中发生的众多复杂场景,海空相互作用是一个相关的话题,仍有许多悬而未决的问题。在这份手稿中,我们报告了在相反风的作用下部分反射的规则(长)波的实验研究,这会产生短风波(风产生的水波,WGW)。风吹向入射波,因此它与反射波的方向相同。规则波由桨产生,被定义为机械产生的水波 (MGW)。MGW和WGW通过光谱滤波技术分离,研究波高、周期和陡度的自由表面统计。通过实验观察和理论上描述了由 MGW 的部分反射(由桨产生)引起的空间变化,并观察和检查风对反射参数的影响。风浪统计的相位条件分析,分离波峰和波谷,逆风侧和逆风侧,揭示了局部风力的重要性,并捕获了标准无法检测到的较长波调制的风波特征。统计分析。分析了风波的相位加速度,包括风致切变流的影响和MGW的非惯性效应;据我们所知,这种最后效应实验分析是新颖的。该研究与描述在涌浪和风浪(同一方向和相反方向共线)条件下沿海结构和海滩前面的波场特征有关,影响爬升,
更新日期:2020-12-01
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