Hop (Humulus lupulus) has been used in Scandinavia since at least the ninth century AD, as documented through archaeological findings and written, historical records. The written records are mainly focused on the use of cone-shaped flowers for beer brewing and medical purposes, but there are also records, for example, from the famous Swedish botanist Carl von Linne, who mentions the use of hop fibres for textile production. However, until now no experimental investigations have been published on the use of hop fibres in cultural heritage objects. A major reason for this has been the lack of a suitable characterization method. Hop is a bast fibre, just as flax and hemp and bast fibres cannot be distinguished from each other by simple optical inspection. Recently a new identification method for hop fibres was published by the authors of this article. Here we apply the new method in an investigation of two Swedish cultural heritage objects: (i) a woman’s garment from the nineteenth century, which was labelled as having an upper section made from coarse linen and a bottom section made of hemp and hop and (ii) a textile fragment from an eighteenth-century textile sample book, which was labelled as being made from hop. We show that the woman’s garment is made with hop and hemp fibres and the textile fragment from the textile sample book is made with hop. Our work provides the first direct proof that hop fibres were used for textiles in the past.

中文翻译：

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历史纺织品中啤酒花纤维的第一个实验证据

蛇麻草至少从公元九世纪开始就在斯堪的纳维亚半岛使用，这已通过考古发现和书面的历史记录得到了证明。书面记录主要集中在使用锥形花进行啤酒酿造和医疗用途，但也有一些记录，例如，著名的瑞典植物学家卡尔·冯·林恩（Carl von Linne）提到啤酒花纤维用于纺织品生产。但是，到目前为止，还没有关于酒花纤维在文化遗产物品中的使用的实验研究发表。主要原因是缺乏合适的表征方法。啤酒花是韧皮纤维，就像亚麻，麻和韧皮纤维不能通过简单的光学检查来区分。最近，本文的作者发布了一种用于啤酒花纤维的新鉴定方法。在这里，我们将这种新方法应用于对两个瑞典文化遗产的调查中：（i）十九世纪的女性服装，其上部被标记为由粗亚麻制成，底部由麻和蛇麻草制成，并且（ ii）来自18世纪的纺织品样本集的纺织品片段，被标记为由蛇麻草制成。我们表明，该女士的服装是用啤酒花和大麻纤维制成的，而纺织品样品册中的纺织品片段是用啤酒花制成的。我们的工作提供了第一个直接证据，证明啤酒花纤维过去曾用于纺织品。上面的标签用粗麻布制成，底部用大麻和蛇麻草制成，（ii）十八世纪纺织品样品册中的纺织品片段，标签用蛇麻草制成。我们表明，该女士的服装是用啤酒花和大麻纤维制成的，而纺织品样品册中的纺织品片段是用啤酒花制成的。我们的工作提供了第一个直接证据，证明啤酒花纤维过去曾用于纺织品。上面的标签用粗麻布制成，底部用大麻和蛇麻草制成，（ii）十八世纪纺织品样品册中的纺织品片段，标签用蛇麻草制成。我们表明，该女士的服装是用啤酒花和大麻纤维制成的，而纺织品样品册中的纺织品片段是用啤酒花制成的。我们的工作提供了啤酒花纤维在过去用于纺织品的第一个直接证据。