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Morphodynamic response to extreme wave events of microtidal dissipative and reflective beaches
Applied Ocean Research ( IF 4.3 ) Pub Date : 2020-08-01 , DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2020.102283
J. Cueto , L. Otero

Abstract In this work, the morphodynamic response of microtidal dissipative and reflective beaches to extreme wave events generated by hurricanes and cold fronts in the Colombian Caribbean was established. Two sandy beaches were used as case studies, Bocagrande (Cartagena, Bolivar Department) (dissipative) and Costa Verde (Cienaga, Magdalena Department) (intermediate–reflective). The numerical models SWAN and XBeach were used to investigate wave propagation during storm conditions for selected cases and to determine morphological changes on the two beaches. Both models were calibrated using hydrodynamic and bathymetric data obtained in field campaigns pre and post-cold fronts. The results of the numerical models satisfactorily represented the real conditions on both beaches. It was shown that regardless of beach configuration, whether dissipative or intermediate–reflective, erosive processes had a greater magnitude during cold fronts (March 2009 and December 2017) than under hurricanes conditions. Bocagrande beach is more exposed to extreme wave events, mainly due to its characteristic dissipative profile. Infragravity wave energy, fundamental in sediment transport dynamics, is not reflected on the beach front, but is dissipated along the swash zone and drags sediment to the sea. By contrast, Costa Verde shows conservative coastline retreats: its intermediate–reflective morphologic configuration played a transcendental role. Infragravity wave reflection on the beach front does not allow a longer water extension over dry areas in the swash zone under storms.

中文翻译:

微潮耗散反射海滩极端波浪事件的形态动力学响应

摘要 在这项工作中,建立了微潮消散和反射海滩对哥伦比亚加勒比地区飓风和冷锋产生的极端波浪事件的形态动力学响应。两个沙滩被用作案例研究,Bocagrande(卡塔赫纳,玻利瓦尔省)(耗散)和 Costa Verde(Cienaga,马格达莱纳省)(中间反射)。数值模型 SWAN 和 XBeach 用于研究选定案例风暴条件下的波浪传播,并确定两个海滩的形态变化。两种模型都使用在冷锋前后的野外活动中获得的流体动力学和测深数据进行校准。数值模型的结果令人满意地代表了两个海滩的真实情况。结果表明,无论海滩配置如何,无论是耗散还是中间反射,冷锋期间(2009 年 3 月和 2017 年 12 月)的侵蚀过程都比飓风条件下的强度更大。博卡格兰德海滩更容易受到极端波浪事件的影响,这主要是由于其特有的耗散剖面。次重力波能量是沉积物输送动力学的基础,它不会在海滩前反射,而是沿着冲刷带消散并将沉积物拖入大海。相比之下,Costa Verde 显示出保守的海岸线撤退:它的中间反射形态配置发挥了超然的作用。海滩前的次重力波反射不允许在风暴下的冲刷区的干燥地区延长水的延伸。冷锋期间(2009 年 3 月和 2017 年 12 月)的侵蚀过程比在飓风条件下的强度更大。博卡格兰德海滩更容易受到极端波浪事件的影响,这主要是由于其特有的耗散剖面。次重力波能量是沉积物输送动力学的基础,它不会在海滩前反射,而是沿着冲刷带消散并将沉积物拖入大海。相比之下,Costa Verde 显示出保守的海岸线撤退:它的中间反射形态配置发挥了超然的作用。海滩前的次重力波反射不允许在风暴下冲刷区的干燥地区延长水的延伸。冷锋期间(2009 年 3 月和 2017 年 12 月)的侵蚀过程比在飓风条件下的强度更大。博卡格兰德海滩更容易受到极端波浪事件的影响,这主要是由于其特有的耗散剖面。次重力波能量是沉积物输送动力学的基础,它不会在海滩前反射,而是沿着冲刷带消散并将沉积物拖入大海。相比之下,Costa Verde 显示出保守的海岸线撤退:它的中间反射形态配置发挥了超然的作用。海滩前的次重力波反射不允许在风暴下冲刷区的干燥地区延长水的延伸。次重力波能量是沉积物输送动力学的基础,它不会在海滩前反射,而是沿着冲刷带消散并将沉积物拖入大海。相比之下,Costa Verde 显示出保守的海岸线撤退:它的中间反射形态配置发挥了超然的作用。海滩前的次重力波反射不允许在风暴下冲刷区的干燥地区延长水的延伸。次重力波能量是沉积物输送动力学的基础,它不会在海滩前反射,而是沿着冲刷带消散并将沉积物拖入大海。相比之下,Costa Verde 显示出保守的海岸线撤退:它的中间反射形态配置发挥了超然的作用。海滩前的次重力波反射不允许在风暴下冲刷区的干燥地区延长水的延伸。
更新日期:2020-08-01
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