Ocean waves are the main driver of sediment transport on open sandy coastlines, and inter-annual to multi-decadal variability in the wave climate significantly impacts year-on-year coastal risk. As such, the integration of large-scale climatic variability into local-scale coastal management studies is pertinent but seldom implemented in practice, mainly due to the lack of knowledge in this subject as is the case of Mexico. This knowledge gap is addressed here by quantifying the seasonal to long-term variability of the wave climate along the coasts of Mexico. The influence of large-scale climate drivers on this variability is also characterized. To do this, we identify monthly-averaged directional wave power signatures of the Mexican coast at a 0.5° resolution pertaining to a range of climate indices, using a newly available climate reanalysis product (ERA5) and a statistical-based global wave climate classification method. The wave climate of the Mexican Pacific coast is strongly bi-directional with considerable seasonal variability and high sensitivity to pan-hemispheric climate variability in the Pacific. Conversely, the wave climate of the Mexican Caribbean coast is more homogenous year-round, having its origins in the tropical Atlantic. Results show that El Niño effects break down the bi-directionality of the Mexican Pacific wave climate, leading to a more uni-directional, shore-normal, and more energetic nearshore wave power climate, compared with ENSO-neutral periods. Additionally, the wave power response to individual ENSO events can be either amplified or dampened depending on the underlying phase of the multi-decadal PDO.

中文翻译：

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墨西哥海岸定向波功率的气候驱动因素

海浪是在开放的沙质海岸线上泥沙输送的主要驱动力，海浪气候的年际至十年际变化极大地影响了按年的沿海风险。因此，将大规模的气候变化纳入当地规模的沿海管理研究是相关的，但很少在实践中实施，这主要是由于缺乏对这一学科的了解，例如墨西哥。通过量化墨西哥沿岸海浪气候的季节性至长期变化，可以解决这一知识缺口。还描述了大规模气候驱动因素对这种变化的影响。为此，我们确定了与各种气候指数有关的，分辨率为0.5°的墨西哥海岸的月平均定向波功率特征，使用新近可用的气候再分析产品（ERA5）和基于统计的全球海浪气候分类方法。墨西哥太平洋沿岸的波浪气候具有强烈的双向性，具有明显的季节性变化，并且对太平洋的全半球气候变化高度敏感。相反，墨西哥加勒比海沿岸的波浪气候全年较为均匀，其起源于热带大西洋。结果表明，与ENSO中性期相比，厄尔尼诺效应破坏了墨西哥太平洋海浪气候的双向性，导致了更加单向的，岸上正态的和更有活力的近岸海浪电力气候。此外，根据多年代PDO的基础相位，可以放大或衰减对单个ENSO事件的波功率响应。