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Conditions for the occurrence of notable edge waves due to atmospheric disturbances
Applied Ocean Research ( IF 4.3 ) Pub Date : 2020-08-01 , DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2020.102255
Xiaojing Niu

Abstract It has been observed and theoretically proved that edge waves can be generated by a moving atmospheric pressure disturbance near the coast. This study aims to clarify the necessary conditions for the occurrence of significant edge waves associating with moving atmospheric pressure disturbances. The complex physical problem is simplified as a pressure disturbance moving along a coast with a constant beach slope. The dominant factors include the spatial scale and translational speed of disturbance, the beach slope, as well as the transient response of water surface. The effects of each factor are discussed based on numerical modeling. It is found that the quasi-steady wave pattern is controlled by two non-dimensional parameters, the ratio of the disturbance spatial scale to the wave length of fundamental edge wave and the ratio of the disturbance spatial scale to the distance from the center of disturbance to shoreline. The duration of atmospheric disturbance or the growth time of edge wave is also found to play an important role in the occurrence of notable edge waves. Starting from a calm sea, the growth of edge wave can be divided into a fast growth stage and a quasi-steady stage. The duration of the fast growth stage is affected by the spatial scale and the beach slope. When the fundamental mode of edge wave is dominant, the appearance of a notable edge wave is affected by the translational speed and the beach slope.

中文翻译:

由于大气扰动而产生显着边缘波的条件

摘要 已经观察到并从理论上证明了边缘波可以由海岸附近移动的大气压力扰动产生。本研究旨在阐明与移动大气压力扰动相关的显着边缘波发生的必要条件。复杂的物理问题被简化为沿着具有恒定海滩坡度的海岸移动的压力扰动。主导因素包括扰动的空间尺度和平移速度、海滩坡度以及水面的瞬态响应。基于数值模型讨论了每个因素的影响。发现准稳态波形受两个无量纲参数控制,扰动空间尺度与基波边缘波波长的比值和扰动空间尺度与扰动中心到海岸线距离的比值。还发现大气扰动的持续时间或边缘波的增长时间在显着边缘波的发生中起重要作用。从平静的海面开始,边缘波的增长可分为快速增长阶段和准稳定阶段。快速生长阶段的持续时间受空间尺度和海滩坡度的影响。当边缘波的基模占优势时,显着边缘波的出现受平移速度和海滩坡度的影响。还发现大气扰动的持续时间或边缘波的增长时间在显着边缘波的发生中起重要作用。从平静的海面开始,边缘波的增长可分为快速增长阶段和准稳定阶段。快速生长阶段的持续时间受空间尺度和海滩坡度的影响。当边缘波的基模占优势时,显着边缘波的出现受平移速度和海滩坡度的影响。还发现大气扰动的持续时间或边缘波的增长时间在显着边缘波的发生中起重要作用。从平静的海面开始,边缘波的增长可分为快速增长阶段和准稳定阶段。快速生长阶段的持续时间受空间尺度和海滩坡度的影响。当边缘波的基模占优势时,显着边缘波的出现受平移速度和海滩坡度的影响。
更新日期:2020-08-01
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