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Fully nonlinear simulations of unidirectional extreme waves provoked by strong depth transitions: The effect of slope
Physical Review Fluids ( IF 2.7 ) Pub Date : 2020-06-18 , DOI: 10.1103/physrevfluids.5.064804
Yaokun Zheng , Zhiliang Lin , Yan Li , T. A. A. Adcock , Ye Li , T. S. van den Bremer

Recent experimental and numerical studies of surface gravity waves propagating over a sloping bottom have shown that an increase in the probability of extreme waves can be triggered by depth variations in sufficiently shallow waters. This phenomenon is studied here by means of a boundary element method with fast multipole acceleration to solve the fully nonlinear water wave equations. We focus on the case of a random, unidirectional wave field with prescribed statistical properties propagating over a submerged slope and consider different depth variations, including a step. Validation is provided by comparing with experiments by Trulsen, Zeng, and Gramstad [Phys. Fluids 24, 097101 (2012)]. Strongly non-Gaussian statistics are observed in a region localized near the depth transition, beyond which the statistics settle rapidly to the steady statistical state of finite-depth random wave fields. Using a harmonic separation technique, we show that the second-order terms are responsible for the change in the statistical properties near the depth transition. We explore in detail the effects of peak frequency, significant wave height, the inclination of the slope, and the depth of the shallower water side on the kurtosis, skewness, and the excess probability of the crest height, including their spatial distributions.

中文翻译:

强深度跃迁引起的单向极端波的完全非线性模拟:斜率的影响

最近在倾斜的底部传播的表面重力波的实验和数值研究表明,在足够浅的水中,深度变化会触发极端波概率的增加。在此,通过具有快速多极加速度的边界元方法研究该现象,以求解完全非线性的水波方程。我们关注随机单向波场的情况,该波场具有在水下斜坡上传播的规定统计特性,并考虑不同的深度变化,包括台阶。通过与Trulsen,Zeng和Gramstad的实验进行比较来提供验证。液体 24097101(2012)]。在深度过渡附近的区域中观察到强烈的非高斯统计,超出该统计范围,统计将迅速稳定到有限深度随机波场的稳定统计状态。使用谐波分离技术,我们表明二阶项负责深度过渡附近统计属性的变化。我们详细研究了峰值频率,有效波高,坡度和浅水侧深度对峰度,偏度以及波峰高度超额概率(包括其空间分布)的影响。
更新日期:2020-06-19
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