Polyether alkyl urea derivatives were synthesized, and their properties as gelators in solvents commonly used in cosmetic formulations such as Labrafac cc, isopropyl myristate, and isododecane were investigated. A solvent-free larger-scale (up to 70 g) hydrophobic functionalization of the polyetheramines was carried out by one-step reaction with alkyl or aryl-containing isocyanates, which resulted in the formation of urea-functionalized polyethers. Systematic structural studies were conducted by varying the nature and molecular weight of the polyether backbone and the length of the linker and the side chain. The gels obtained have an appearance varying from opaque to transparent, and their properties were characterized by rheological measurements and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) studies. Rheological analysis indicated the dependence of the gel properties on the hydrophobicity of the alkyl end groups and the type of polyether backbone. SAXS measurements revealed a topological description of the network structures of these materials wherein the gels obtained in Labrafac cc form defined structures from the fiber bundles, while those in isopropyl myristate produce clusters. The results obtained in this study offer potential applications in perfume and cosmetic formulations.

中文翻译：

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调整化妆品溶剂中作为流变改性剂的聚醚烷基脲衍生物的性能

合成了聚醚烷基脲衍生物，并研究了它们在化妆品配方中常用的溶剂（如Labrafac cc，肉豆蔻酸异丙酯和异十二烷）中作为胶凝剂的性能。通过与含烷基或芳基的异氰酸酯进行一步反应，对聚醚胺进行无溶剂的大规模（最高70 g）疏水官能化处理，从而形成了脲官能化的聚醚。通过改变聚醚主链的性质和分子量以及接头和侧链的长度来进行系统的结构研究。所得凝胶的外观从不透明到透明不等，其特性通过流变学测量和小角度X射线散射（SAXS）研究来表征。流变学分析表明凝胶性质对烷基端基的疏水性和聚醚主链类型的依赖性。SAXS测量揭示了这些材料的网络结构的拓扑描述，其中Labrafac cc中获得的凝胶从纤维束中形成确定的结构，而肉豆蔻酸异丙酯中的凝胶产生簇。这项研究中获得的结果为香水和化妆品配方提供了潜在的应用。