ABSTRACT The aim of this research was to produce reference data for the study and identification of fibres of carbonised excavated textiles. Thus, the effects of carbonisation (incomplete burning) on the morphology and dimensions of selected fibres used in textile production were investigated. A set of standard test, commercial, and hand-made fabrics, of four cellulosic (cotton, flax, hemp, nettle) and two proteinaceous (silk, wool/ wool felt) fibres, were used for the experiments. Samples were carbonised in a limited oxygen environment at 250, 350, and 500°C for one hour (apart from the wool samples for which the duration of the experiment had to be lowered to six minutes). Wool and silk samples were destroyed at temperatures above 250°C. All cellulosic and the silk samples shrank and their weight was reduced at different percentages that increased as the temperature increased. Exceptionally, wool textile samples exhibited extreme shrinkage but also an increase in their weight. Similarly, the fibre diameters of the cellulosic and silk fibres shrunk gradually at different degrees as the temperature increased, and some exhibited marked degradation patterns, like lacerations in flax, ridges in hemp, raggedness in nettle, and cracks in silk fibres. Wool fibres swell locally but retained the scale pattern on the surface. In general, an increase in the weave count of the textile samples was observed. However, the morphology of the fibres characteristic to their identification did not alter to an unrecognisable degree as a result of artificial carbonisation, as long as the material was preserved.

中文翻译：

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人工不完全燃烧对纤维素和蛋白质纺织品和纤维的形态和尺寸的影响

摘要 本研究的目的是为研究和鉴定碳化挖掘纺织品的纤维提供参考数据。因此，研究了碳化（不完全燃烧）对纺织生产中使用的选定纤维的形态和尺寸的影响。一组标准测试、商业和手工织物，包括四种纤维素（棉花、亚麻、大麻、荨麻）和两种蛋白质（丝绸、羊毛/羊毛毡）纤维，用于实验。样品在 250、350 和 500°C 的有限氧气环境中碳化 1 小时（羊毛样品除外，其实验持续时间必须降低到 6 分钟）。羊毛和丝绸样品在高于 250°C 的温度下被破坏。所有纤维素和丝绸样品都收缩，并且它们的重量以不同的百分比减少，随着温度的增加而增加。例外的是，羊毛纺织品样品表现出极大的收缩率，但其重量也有所增加。同样，纤维素纤维和蚕丝纤维的纤维直径随着温度的升高逐渐出现不同程度的收缩，有的表现出明显的降解模式，如亚麻撕裂、大麻皱纹、荨麻粗糙、蚕丝裂纹等。羊毛纤维局部膨胀，但保留了表面的鳞片图案。一般而言，观察到纺织品样品的编织计数增加。然而，由于人工碳化，纤维的形态特征没有改变到无法识别的程度，