This article focuses on the practices, narratives, and the politics of sustainable vignaioli (winegrowers and winemakers) in the Province of Perugia, Umbria, Italy. We discuss the ways in which alternative winemakers reinterpret notions of quality and terroir as a set of narratives through which they articulate their definition of sustainability, their relationship with the land and their activism. Their visions and practices of sustainability inform their idea of the role and quality of wine, which becomes more than just a commodity, but a symbol of their work, values, moral stances, and political agency. We show how a sense of terroir, or “taste of place,” is refashioned by a group of Umbrian winegrowers as a driving factor for activism through their sustainable and agro-ecological practices. Drawing on a variety of discourses on nature and their role as artisans, farmers use the notion of terroir not just for marketable or sensorial reasons, but also to create a politically active community.

本文重点介绍意大利翁布里亚省佩鲁贾省可持续维尼亚朱利酒（葡萄种植者和酿酒师）的做法，叙述和政治。我们讨论另类酿酒师将质量和风土概念重新解释为一组叙述的方式，通过这些叙述他们阐明对可持续性的定义，与土地的关系以及他们的行动主义。他们对可持续性的看法和实践传达了他们对葡萄酒的作用和质量的观念，而葡萄酒的作用和质量不仅仅是一种商品，而是其工作，价值观，道德立场和政治代理的象征。我们展示了一群翁布里亚葡萄酒种植者如何通过他们的可持续发展和农业生态实践将风土感或“地方风味”重新塑造为行动主义的驱动因素。