当前位置: X-MOL 学术Coast. Eng. › 论文详情
Our official English website, www.x-mol.net, welcomes your feedback! (Note: you will need to create a separate account there.)
Variations of wave parameter statistics as influenced by water depth in coastal and inner shelf areas
Coastal Engineering ( IF 4.4 ) Pub Date : 2020-08-01 , DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103714
Jilian Xiong , Zai-Jin You , Jin Li , Shu Gao , Qing Wang , Ya Ping Wang

Abstract Wave height, pressure and orbital velocity statistics, as influenced by the factor of water depth, are analyzed on the basis of five data sets collected in situ from two intertidal sites with a mean water depth of 0.8–2.7 m and three inner shelf sites (water depths 14.6–27.6 m). Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) were used to measure instantaneous wave pressure and current velocity at 0.20–0.35 m above sea bed. The zero-crossing wave analysis method was applied to analyze the wave data to determine the wave pressure amplitude P and orbital velocity amplitude U of individual waves, together with the frequency of occurrence distributions of P and U, which are compared with the three commonly-used, classic Rayleigh, modified Rayleigh and Weibull distributions. It is found that the distribution of P is almost identical to that of U for each of the five study sites. The distributions of P and U for the intertidal flat sites fit the Weibull distribution better than the classic or modified Rayleigh ones, indicating a shallowness effect which is associated with finite-banded wind-wave spectra and possible wave breaking or near-bed turbulence. On the other hand, the distributions of P and U measured at the three inner shelf sites agree almost equally with the three distributions. With increasing water depth, the distributions of P and U are shown to reduce from the two-parameter Weibull distribution at the shallow intertidal sites to the classic Rayleigh at the deep-water sites. For coastal engineering applications, an empirical formula is proposed to estimate more accurately the significant wave height in intermediate coastal waters based on the surface water elevation data.

中文翻译:

沿海和内陆架区受水深影响的波浪参数统计变化

摘要 基于从两个平均水深为0.8-2.7 m的潮间带地点和三个内陆架地点原位收集的五个数据集,分析了受水深因素影响的波高、压力和轨道速度统计数据。 (水深 14.6–27.6 m)。声学多普勒测速仪 (ADV) 用于测量海床上方 0.20-0.35 m 处的瞬时波压和流速。应用过零波分析方法对波浪数据进行分析,确定单个波的波压幅值P和轨道速度幅值U,以及P和U的出现频率分布,并与常用的三种-使用,经典瑞利,修正瑞利和威布尔分布。发现对于五个研究站点中的每一个,P 的分布几乎与 U 的分布相同。潮间带平坦场地的 P 和 U 分布比经典或修正瑞利分布更符合威布尔分布,表明浅层效应与有限带状风波谱和可能的波浪破碎或近床湍流有关。另一方面,在三个内陆架站点测量的 P 和 U 的分布与三个分布几乎相同。随着水深的增加,P 和 U 的分布从浅潮间带的双参数威布尔分布减少到深水点的经典瑞利分布。对于海岸工程应用,
更新日期:2020-08-01
down
wechat
bug