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Rip currents in the non-tidal surf zone with sandbars: numerical analysis versus field measurements
Oceanologia ( IF 2.9 ) Pub Date : 2020-02-22 , DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2020.02.001
Aleksandra Dudkowska , Aleksandra Boruń , Jakub Malicki , Jan Schönhofer , Gabriela Gic-Grusza

Rip currents, which are local seaward-directed jets with their mean velocity exceeding 0.5 m/s, have been a subject of many studies since the 1940s. They are an important part of the nearshore current system and in specific hydro- and litomorphological conditions can cause changes in the local bathymetry. Thus, a detailed analysis of the characteristics of this phenomenon is crucial both to public safety and hydroengineering. The main purpose of this research is to determine the wave conditions of a multi-bar non-tidal coastal zone environment in which rip currents can occur. In this study, we focus on a multi-bar non-tidal coastal zone environment located in the Southern Baltic Sea, where rip current driving forces are mostly reduced to the wind and wind-induced waves. This is one of very few comprehensive approaches to exploring the possibility of rip currents occurrence in such environmental conditions. During two field expeditions, there were carried out in situ measurements exploiting two GPS drifters. The results indicate the formation of irregular non-longshore flows (related to rip currents) in the studied area. To answer the question under what conditions the formation of rip currents takes place, an extended modelling experiment was performed. Deep-water wave conditions typical of the studied area were chosen due to bouy measurements. The total of 589 combinations of the significant wave height, the mean period and wave direction values were examined as test cases. The coastal flow in the area and tracks of virtual drifters were simulated by XBeach numerical model for all test cases. As a result, 589 nearshore currents fields were generated and two scenarios were indicated: a regular circulation (dominated by the longshore current) which is typical of this area (547 cases), and flows with rip current features (42 cases). This reflects the results of the field measurements carried out. It can be concluded that the wave direction is a dominating factor in the formation of rip currents. Namely the flows of this type may occur in the area of interest when the direction of a deep water wave is almost perpendicular to the shore. Such situations occur rarely. They cover about 7% of the days of the year. Thus, rip currents do not appear to be a significant factor in the reconstruction of the sea bottom in the studied area.



中文翻译:

带沙洲的非潮汐浪潮区域的水流:数值分析与现场测量

自1940年代以来,作为平均速度超过0.5 m / s的局部向海射流的瑞普流一直是许多研究的主题。它们是近岸水流系统的重要组成部分,在特定的水文和岩性条件下会导致局部测深的变化。因此,对该现象的特征进行详细分析对于公共安全和水利工程都至关重要。这项研究的主要目的是确定多条非潮汐沿海地区环境中的波浪条件,在该环境中可能会产生裂隙电流。在这项研究中,我们关注位于波罗的海南部的多条非潮汐沿海地区环境,在这里,撕裂电流驱动力主要减少为风和风浪。这是探索在这种环境条件下发生裂口电流的可能性的极少数综合方法之一。在两次野外考察中,利用两个GPS漂移器进行了原位测量。结果表明在研究区域内形成了不规则的非近岸水流(与裂隙水流有关)。为了回答在什么条件下产生裂隙电流的问题,进行了扩展的建模实验。由于要进行浮标测量,因此选择了典型研究区域的深水波浪条件。测试了589个有效波高,平均周期和波向值的组合,作为测试用例。通过XBeach数值模型对所有测试用例模拟了该地区的沿海流量和虚拟漂流道。结果是,生成了589个近岸水流场,并指出了两种情况:该地区的典型环流(以长岸流为主)(547例)和具有裂隙水流的流(42例)。这反映了实地测量的结果。可以得出结论,波的方向是裂隙电流形成的主要因素。即,当深水波的方向几乎垂直于海岸时,这种流动可能会在感兴趣的区域中发生。这种情况很少发生。它们覆盖一年中大约7%的日子。因此,在研究区域的海底重建中,裂隙电流似乎并不是重要因素。该地区的典型环流(以长岸流为主)(547例),并具有裂谷流特征(42例)。这反映了实地测量的结果。可以得出结论,波的方向是裂隙电流形成的主要因素。即,当深水波的方向几乎垂直于海岸时,这种流动可能会在感兴趣的区域中发生。这种情况很少发生。它们覆盖一年中大约7%的日子。因此,在研究区域的海底重建中,裂隙电流似乎并不是重要因素。该地区的典型环流(以长岸流为主)(547例),并具有裂谷流特征(42例)。这反映了实地测量的结果。可以得出结论,波的方向是裂隙电流形成的主要因素。即,当深水波的方向几乎垂直于海岸时,这种流动可能会在感兴趣的区域中发生。这种情况很少发生。它们覆盖一年中大约7%的日子。因此,在研究区域的海底重建中,裂隙电流似乎并不是重要因素。可以得出结论,波的方向是裂隙电流形成的主要因素。即,当深水波的方向几乎垂直于海岸时,这种流动可能会在感兴趣的区域中发生。这种情况很少发生。它们覆盖一年中大约7%的日子。因此,在研究区域的海底重建中,裂隙电流似乎并不是重要因素。可以得出结论,波的方向是裂隙电流形成的主要因素。即,当深水波的方向几乎垂直于海岸时,这种流动可能会在感兴趣的区域中发生。这种情况很少发生。它们覆盖一年中大约7%的日子。因此,在研究区域的海底重建中,裂隙电流似乎并不是重要因素。

更新日期:2020-02-22
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