ABSTRACT Using the recently developed bottom-tilting wave maker, run-ups of very long waves are investigated on an adjustable plane beach. Both leading-elevation waves and leading-depression waves are considered, in which the experimental results are compared with the numerical solution of the nonlinear shallow water equations. A surf similarity parameter based on the steepness of the accelerating phase of the wave is suggested. It is shown that both the maximum run-up height and the theoretical breaking criterion can be described in terms of the surf similarity parameter, which is consistent with the results for the solitary waves.

中文翻译：

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底倾造波器产生的长波助跑

摘要 使用最近开发的底部倾斜造波器，在可调节的平面海滩上研究了非常长的波浪的上升。同时考虑了俯仰波和俯仰波，并将实验结果与非线性浅水方程的数值解进行了比较。建议了基于波浪加速相位陡度的冲浪相似性参数。结果表明，最大爬升高度和理论破坏准则都可以用冲浪相似参数来描述，这与孤立波的结果一致。