The purpose of this study is to provide a quantitative reference required for the decision of ease allowance to draft men’s formal jacket patterns by quantifying the customers’ actual tendency regarding the preferred fit. The ease allowances of 62 male customers were investigated through the sensory evaluations, once in the initial fitting jackets which were designed using the graded sizing chart of ready-to-wear, and once again in the custom-made jacket customers ordered. The 5-point Likert scale was used for the sensory evaluation and the preferred ease allowance was defined as the ease allowance of respondents who responded “3_Suitable”. The regression equations were developed to estimate preferred ease allowance by inputting body size measurements which showed the highest correlation with the preferred ease allowances. The estimated ease allowance ranges by inputting the 5th to 95th percentile of the body sizes were 5.17–8.25 cm for the chest circumference, 6.90–2.09 cm for chest–waist circumference on the jacket, − 3.82 to 1.34 cm for the chest–hip circumference on the jacket, 1.58–5.86 cm for the upper arm circumference, − 1.80 to 1.95 cm for the bi-shoulder length, and 0.406–0.425 for the ratio of jacket length to stature. The actual tendency of the jacket consumers can be estimated by result of this study, which make the jacket pattern which conforms to current fashion trends can be produced minimizing the potential fit problems.

中文翻译：

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男士正装夹克图案的首选宽松津贴的量化

这项研究的目的是通过量化客户在首选合身方面的实际趋势，为确定宽松津贴起草男士正装夹克图案提供所需的定量参考。通过感官评估调查了62位男性顾客的安逸度，一次是在最初的试穿夹克中，该夹克是使用成衣的分级尺寸表设计的，另一次是在定做的定制顾客中进行的。使用5点李克特量表进行感官评估，首选的缓解津贴定义为回答“ 3_Suitable”的受访者的缓解津贴。通过输入显示与首选轻松度相关性最高的身体尺寸测量值，开发了回归方程式来估算首选轻松度。通过输入车身尺寸的第5至95个百分位数，估计的舒适度范围为：胸围为5.17-8.25 cm，夹克上腰围为6.90-2.09 cm，胸围为-3.82至1.34 cm在夹克上，上臂围为1.58–5.86 cm，双肩长度为− 1.80至1.95 cm，夹克长度与身高之比为0.406–0.425。这项研究的结果可以估算出夹克消费者的实际趋势，从而可以生产出符合当前流行趋势的夹克图案，从而最大程度地减少潜在的合身问题。夹克的胸臀围为34厘米，上臂围为1.58–5.86厘米，双肩长度为− 1.80至1.95厘米，夹克长度与身高之比为0.406–0.425。这项研究的结果可以估算出夹克消费者的实际趋势，从而可以生产出符合当前流行趋势的夹克图案，从而最大程度地减少潜在的合身问题。夹克的胸臀围为34厘米，上臂围为1.58–5.86厘米，双肩长度为− 1.80至1.95厘米，夹克长度与身高之比为0.406–0.425。这项研究的结果可以估算出夹克消费者的实际趋势，从而可以生产出符合当前流行趋势的夹克图案，从而最大程度地减少潜在的合身问题。