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Cosmetic dyes as potential photosensitizers of singlet oxygen generation
Dyes and Pigments ( IF 4.5 ) Pub Date : 2020-01-27 , DOI: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2020.108248
Fernanda Vázquez-Ortega , Irene Lagunes , Ángel Trigos

Photosensitizer molecules capable of absorbing UV radiation and visible light through photochemical reactions can generate singlet oxygen (1O2). 1O2 is an oxidizing agent that can react with biomolecules causing oxidative damage. Cosmetic dyes possess chromophore groups capable of performing the absorption process of electromagnetic radiation thereby they could act as photosensitizers. The aim of this research was to evaluate the photosensitizing ability of 25 dyes used as cosmetic ingredients through photo-oxidation of ergosterol as an indirect detection method of 1O2. The presence of 1O2 was indirectly detected by ergosterol conversion into ergosterol peroxide through 1H NMR mixture analysis. Our results showed that 9 cosmetic dyes belonging to pyrene, chlorophyll, xanthene and aminoanthraquinone groups were able to act as photosensitizers in the generation of 1O2. The photosensitizing ability of these dyes could be contradictory if they are used as cosmetic ingredients because of pro-oxidants effects caused by 1O2 and its implications in skin photoaging. On the other hand, in regard to the photosensitizing ability of the remaining dyes tested belonging to the azo, triarylmethane, hydroxyanthraquinone, quinoline and indigoid groups, these were found not capable of photosensitizing 1O2 generation, consequently their use as cosmetic ingredients wouldn't suppose an oxidation risk caused by 1O2.



中文翻译:

化妆品染料可能会产生单线态氧

能够通过光化学反应吸收紫外线和可见光的光敏剂分子会产生单线态氧(1 O 2)。1 O 2是可以与生物分子反应导致氧化损伤的氧化剂。化妆品染料具有能够执行电磁辐射吸收过程的生色基团,因此它们可以用作光敏剂。这项研究的目的是通过麦角固醇的光氧化作为间接检测1 O 2的方法来评估25种用作化妆品成分的染料的光敏能力。1 O 2的存在通过1 H NMR混合物分析,通过麦角甾醇转化为麦角固醇过氧化物来间接检测到。我们的结果表明,属于pyr,叶绿素,x吨和氨基蒽醌基团的9种化妆品染料在1 O 2的生成中均可以充当光敏剂。如果将这些染料用作化妆品成分,则它们的光敏能力可能会相互矛盾,因为1 O 2会引起促氧化剂作用及其对皮肤光老化的影响。另一方面,关于所测试的其余的偶氮,三芳基甲烷,羟基蒽醌,喹啉和靛蓝基团的染料的光敏能力,发现它们不能够光敏。1 O 2生成,因此将其用作化妆品成分不会认为由1 O 2引起氧化风险。

更新日期:2020-01-27
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